OT/ Has anyone ever replaced a clutch on an '86 Nissan 300ZX?
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My fiancee and I recently inherited a 1986 Nissan 300ZX. It's in great shape, low miles but the clutch is starting to go. Has anyone here ever replaced one on one of these. It's got to be easier than on my 944. Thanks!
Dave
Just sent in my renewal, Jennifer.
Dave
Just sent in my renewal, Jennifer.
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No it is not easier. As a matter of fact is was the biggest mother of a clutch I ever did! Make sure you have a good selection of extensions and be patient, this is not an easy clutch job. Maybe I have just done too many 944s to consider them that bad, they are hard but not that bad.
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Alex- have you done both? And I dare say the NA is on the order of 10 times easier than the Turbo, aks ME how I know. :>)
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Matt & Alex, Thanks for the replys. I've never done a clutch job but I'm not totally mechanically illiterate. I did complete the suspension upgrade on my 944 myself. Is this something that I should tackle or should I buy a whole lot of beer and pizza and fly you over Matt?
Dave
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Originally posted by Matt H
Alex- have you done both? And I dare say the NA is on the order of 10 times easier than the Turbo, aks ME how I know. :>)
Alex- have you done both? And I dare say the NA is on the order of 10 times easier than the Turbo, aks ME how I know. :>)
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It is time consuming and there are some VERY difficult bolts to get to. It is not impossible, be patient and very careful marking the bolts etc. You will be fine, it is straight forward. It is one of the harder import clutches however.
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I used to be a mechanic specializing in the Nissan Z car (Pre-'90)
What would you like to know? I also have the factory manual. (It's for an '85 but it will work.)
1) Disconnect the Battery. Remove the starter.
2) Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission and wire tie to the side.
3) Disconnect the rear small metal crossmember just before the rear differential.Remove the bolts for the driveshaft and pull it out. NOTE: Wrap a sandwich bag and secure with rubberbands or the like to prevent the transmission fluid (mucus) from leaking all over the floor. Disconnect the main transmission crossmember.
4) Using a floorjack (Or your friend's chest), lower the the transmission until you can reach the upper plate for the shifter linkage. Remove the bolts. (You will have some fluid leak out.)
5) Continue to lower the transmission until you can reach the upper bolts of the bell housing. (Place a short 2"x4" between the engine and firewall at a secure location like the intake to "lock" the engine in position.)
6) Remove bell housing bolts. A 36" extension and universals are really helpful here.
7) Wiggle loose and replace clutch plate. If the pressure plate is not blue or cracked, you may be able to get away with a dirty resurfacing using scotchbrite red pads on a rotarty tool. (Drill, etc.)
8) Replace.
Tip: All Nissans of the time use 8,10,12,14,17,19,21, and 36mm sockets. Any other types are from prior work. (Usually 1/2" and 9/16")
If you need more help just scream, or email.
What would you like to know? I also have the factory manual. (It's for an '85 but it will work.)
1) Disconnect the Battery. Remove the starter.
2) Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission and wire tie to the side.
3) Disconnect the rear small metal crossmember just before the rear differential.Remove the bolts for the driveshaft and pull it out. NOTE: Wrap a sandwich bag and secure with rubberbands or the like to prevent the transmission fluid (mucus) from leaking all over the floor. Disconnect the main transmission crossmember.
4) Using a floorjack (Or your friend's chest), lower the the transmission until you can reach the upper plate for the shifter linkage. Remove the bolts. (You will have some fluid leak out.)
5) Continue to lower the transmission until you can reach the upper bolts of the bell housing. (Place a short 2"x4" between the engine and firewall at a secure location like the intake to "lock" the engine in position.)
6) Remove bell housing bolts. A 36" extension and universals are really helpful here.
7) Wiggle loose and replace clutch plate. If the pressure plate is not blue or cracked, you may be able to get away with a dirty resurfacing using scotchbrite red pads on a rotarty tool. (Drill, etc.)
8) Replace.
Tip: All Nissans of the time use 8,10,12,14,17,19,21, and 36mm sockets. Any other types are from prior work. (Usually 1/2" and 9/16")
If you need more help just scream, or email.
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Thanks! I will definitely be contacting you. I'm not going to do this until after the holidays are over(at least X-Mas) as I have to replace the master and the slave in the Porsche. My fiancee said that I could use her chest for the transmission as she's a little more stacked than any of my friends
Best place to buy O.E Nissan parts? (Other options besides the dealer)
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Yes, use zip-lock baggies to store nuts, bolts and other such small things in an orderly way and MAKE SURE TO MARK IN THE BAG what is in there. This little step will help immensly. Also, I'd be wary of using your firend's chest as a transmission jack. You may not have a friend afterwards!
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A 36" extension and universals are really helpful here You know exactly what I was referring to :>)
If not OEM I have had good luck with ACT clutch parts on the imports.
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If not OEM I have had good luck with ACT clutch parts on the imports.
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When I used to race in ITS class, both ECR (endurance) and SAARC (sprint)series, we always used OEM clutch discs (the white ones) they were every bit as good in grip but with better durability. Don't forget to replace the pressure plate at the same time. (I believe centerforce was the "new" clutch idea of the time.) The OEM clutch still did well and had great durability.
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As I re-read the original post I keep thinking of the amount of times I have done this and all of the little stuff my haggard brain had missed. If you would like, send me your email via PM and I will scan the pages for you.
It is a straightforward repair. The Japanese believed in KISS manufacturing. (Keep It Simple, Stupid.) Great for engineering and turning out cars, but a pain for repairs. Oh, wait, you have a Porsche........nevermind.
Form over function over ease of repair........
It is a straightforward repair. The Japanese believed in KISS manufacturing. (Keep It Simple, Stupid.) Great for engineering and turning out cars, but a pain for repairs. Oh, wait, you have a Porsche........nevermind.
Form over function over ease of repair........