New/ non stock Gear Shift Knob Question
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New/ non stock Gear Shift **** Question
I love some of the shift ***** from Momo and others, My stock **** needs replacement and I want to go for something with an alluminium look like the newer Prosche's have. The key here is finding one that fits right and wont increase the height, sits tight and looks good.
Does anyone have a pic to post of an aftermarket in the 944?
Suggestions please!
Does anyone have a pic to post of an aftermarket in the 944?
Suggestions please!
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I'd like to piggyback this thread by asking if anyone has used the short shift kit (Autothority style) in conjunction with a raised shifter (bring it about 4-6" higher - closer to hand-on-wheel position). I'd like to do this, and did the math for calculating throw, but would like to hear from any racer types who may have already tried this?
#3
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Skip- Your post seems to imply that a short shift kit raises the shift ****. I have an Autothority and it didnt raise the shifter at all...did i read into that incorrectly?
-Erich
-Erich
#4
I think what Skip wants (Skip correct me here...)
is a longer shifter, so that it is a shorter reach from the steering wheel, (simiar to WRC cars with long shifters or the Carrera GT).
To negate the increased throw/travel at the shift ****, he wants to use an Autothority kit.
MartinT
is a longer shifter, so that it is a shorter reach from the steering wheel, (simiar to WRC cars with long shifters or the Carrera GT).
To negate the increased throw/travel at the shift ****, he wants to use an Autothority kit.
MartinT
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No, sorry - I may have been unclear. The APE SSK does not raise the shifter (in fact, it has nothing to do with the actual shifter - all of the hardware is at the rear by the shift rod input). What I'd like to do is raise the shifter approximately 4-6" to bring it closer to my static hand position... this is an attempt to reduce hand-off-wheel time thereby decrease thought-action time while shifting. Doing this without reducing the throw would increase the amount of movement required to find the next gear. So, I feel the best way to reduce throw is to use the APE SSK in conjunction with the taller shifter... likely bringing it back to what is *normal*.
I was just fishing to see if anyone had already tried this - and, if it's really worth all the trouble.
I was just fishing to see if anyone had already tried this - and, if it's really worth all the trouble.
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This is probably not a great picture-but my new 951 has a billet **** from ImagineAuto. www.imagineauto.com. They aren't listed on the website so
call 913.310.9927 and ask for Stephen Kreutzer (Kryte-Zer). I think they are closing them out-
I had a MOMO race shift **** in my '83. Both are very nice quality. This **** is aluminum with an aluminum shift pattern insert. It has a nice weight. The only complaint (minor) is that it reflects the temperature outside-cold in the winter, hot in the summer.
Skip-this is for your track car-correct? What about cutting a longer hole in the floor, and moving the whole shifter up? Say you want to move it up 4". you could fab a "block" to go in between the torque tube and the shifter cup. This would raise the whole mechanism up, and could give you the short throw if you put on the autothority unit. The problem is the angle of the shift rod, you would need to cut a longet hole in the tunnel to allow for that.
Am I describing that well? Maybe I'll draw a picture.
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Skip, FWIW, I know many people do exactly that with E30 M3s, but the positions of everything in the M3 is drastically different from in these cars. Still they do exactly what you're saying, there's less time with your hand off the wheel.
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#8
Ben - what did you have to give for the shift ****?
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Do not laugh at this picture-it shows my point, so nyah.
So, in other words, the shifter rod, instead of staying under the floor, would actually come out of the floor in between the seat backs, maybe further back. If it is a track car, and you can make sure the linkage does not bind. Would that work?
So, in other words, the shifter rod, instead of staying under the floor, would actually come out of the floor in between the seat backs, maybe further back. If it is a track car, and you can make sure the linkage does not bind. Would that work?
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Matt H, I bought the car from a friend of Stephen Kaspar's (he owns ImagineAuto). The car had the **** on it when I bought it. I called Stephen, he's going to check how many he has, and then figure what his cost is-and sell them. Give him a call. I want to say shifter and boot was like $75-$100...I could be wrong.
#11
OK, will do. I hope it doesnt scald my hands in August :>)
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Neat idea, Ben. However, there are two possible problems.... and first, I'd have to check the GCR's to see if that's legal (if body mods had to be done). One, the shift rod is pretty darn near horizontal, and I believe any change from that geometry might wreak havoc on the shift inputs. Two, the relative position of the shifter would be pulled back toward me (if I didn't have the shift rod extended to match) - that's the opposite of what I want, as the shifter is kinda too close to me already (in a racing position).
I'm not a fan of the short shift per se, so that's why I haven't already gone that route. I just want the whole thing to work just as it does now, but be higher.
I'm not a fan of the short shift per se, so that's why I haven't already gone that route. I just want the whole thing to work just as it does now, but be higher.
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Back to JR's request for pic of aftermarket shifter, attached is a MOMO F16 Carbon w/MOMO Performance boot. The MOMO does sit a little high on the OE lever but you can just trim off a couple of inches and have yourself a shortshifter.
My HO re aftermarket shifters... avoid them and use the stock Porsche shift ****/lever. It's engineered to dampen noise and vibrations that you'll get with an aftermarket ****.
http://members.rennlist.com/cnalljr/Image14.jpg
My HO re aftermarket shifters... avoid them and use the stock Porsche shift ****/lever. It's engineered to dampen noise and vibrations that you'll get with an aftermarket ****.
http://members.rennlist.com/cnalljr/Image14.jpg
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yeah, sorry about that JR. Was more of a hijack than a piggyback
If anyone has info on the adapter necessary to use a standard Momo or Sparco ****, that'd be great info and we'd be sure to add it to the inventory.
If anyone has info on the adapter necessary to use a standard Momo or Sparco ****, that'd be great info and we'd be sure to add it to the inventory.
#15
Originally posted by Skip
yeah, sorry about that JR. Was more of a hijack than a piggyback
If anyone has info on the adapter necessary to use a standard Momo or Sparco ****, that'd be great info and we'd be sure to add it to the inventory.
yeah, sorry about that JR. Was more of a hijack than a piggyback
If anyone has info on the adapter necessary to use a standard Momo or Sparco ****, that'd be great info and we'd be sure to add it to the inventory.
If I remember correctly, German Parts Restoration (www.gprparts.com) sells this adapter.
I have been meaning to install it over the past few months. It's lying somewhere in the garage. I am still in the office....I can take a pic of the ****/adapter and post it in this thread when I get home tonight.
Last edited by ACG; 12-11-2003 at 09:00 PM.