Rear axles and one rear wheel bearing(s)
12-10-2003, 12:09 AM
#1
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Rear axles and one rear wheel bearing(s)
Well, after cleaning and inspecting the CV joints, even putting one back one, it is in the best interest of the 944 to replace both with new ones. What the heck, then you know it is good, right?
I found the passenger side rear wheel bearing seems to be where most of my noise is coming from. Studying the factory manuals, the Haynes manual, anything I can find on the internet, I am still nervous. Can;t be that bad a job - can it?
Seems for the rear you need two different bearings, an o-ring, 2 seals and some grease - sound about right? I hope someone makes a package deal . . .
Open to any and all suggestions, thoughts, ideas or comments -
Thank you,
Steve
I found the passenger side rear wheel bearing seems to be where most of my noise is coming from. Studying the factory manuals, the Haynes manual, anything I can find on the internet, I am still nervous. Can;t be that bad a job - can it?
Seems for the rear you need two different bearings, an o-ring, 2 seals and some grease - sound about right? I hope someone makes a package deal . . .
Open to any and all suggestions, thoughts, ideas or comments -
Thank you,
Steve
12-10-2003, 12:30 AM
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Throw in a good set of inside snap ring pliers and a breaker bar that will handle 350 ft lbs for the nut and you have it. Might need a three foot piece of 1" water galvanized water pipe to give the breaker bar more leverage.
Oh yes a cotter key to replace the one going through the nut.
Rear axle bearings are like the CV's; replace both sides.
You did get 24 of the socket head bolts for the CV's?
Make sure your car jack will roll when you raise the car. The rear suspension will pull to the side as it is unloaded. Think you know this.
Be careful installing the seals as a slip of the hammer will distort the flange supporting the wipers. Get a couple of extra in case.
Clean out as much of the old grease as possible. Use lots of new grease. I use moly grease.
Oh yes a cotter key to replace the one going through the nut.
Rear axle bearings are like the CV's; replace both sides.
You did get 24 of the socket head bolts for the CV's?
Make sure your car jack will roll when you raise the car. The rear suspension will pull to the side as it is unloaded. Think you know this.
Be careful installing the seals as a slip of the hammer will distort the flange supporting the wipers. Get a couple of extra in case.
Clean out as much of the old grease as possible. Use lots of new grease. I use moly grease.
12-10-2003, 12:00 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Steve:
You need two bearings, two seals, one O-Ring, and two spacers. The spacers are often over looked, but often times there is a groove worn in the outer edge. The groove prevents the seal from sealing so you get water into the bearings. Water in the bearings leads to rust, and the bearings fail.
The part numbers you need are:
Inner Spacer 113 501 305
Outer Spacer 113 501 303
Inner Seal 113 501 315 H
Outer Seal 113 501 315 H
O-ring 113 501 291 B
Inner Bearing 113 501 283
Outer Bearing 113 501 277 A
You will also need some brake fluid, bearing grease, a new cotter pin, a 36MM socket, an air impact gun with at least 400 Ft/Lbs of torque, plus the normal assortment of tools.
Just thank your stars you are not doing the rear wheel bearing on a late model. I've done both early and late model bearings, and the early cars are the easiest by far, but it's still a PITA.
You need two bearings, two seals, one O-Ring, and two spacers. The spacers are often over looked, but often times there is a groove worn in the outer edge. The groove prevents the seal from sealing so you get water into the bearings. Water in the bearings leads to rust, and the bearings fail.
The part numbers you need are:
Inner Spacer 113 501 305
Outer Spacer 113 501 303
Inner Seal 113 501 315 H
Outer Seal 113 501 315 H
O-ring 113 501 291 B
Inner Bearing 113 501 283
Outer Bearing 113 501 277 A
You will also need some brake fluid, bearing grease, a new cotter pin, a 36MM socket, an air impact gun with at least 400 Ft/Lbs of torque, plus the normal assortment of tools.
Just thank your stars you are not doing the rear wheel bearing on a late model. I've done both early and late model bearings, and the early cars are the easiest by far, but it's still a PITA.
12-10-2003, 12:44 PM
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Extra thanks! I already ordered everything (From Pelican, Darin was GREAT!) but will wait on the spacers until I can inspect what I have on their now.
No air tools - wish me a lot of luck!
Breaker bars, oh yeah!
I will spray it at lunch with penetrating lube . . . It looks a little "dry" . . .
No air tools - wish me a lot of luck!
Breaker bars, oh yeah!
I will spray it at lunch with penetrating lube . . . It looks a little "dry" . . .
12-10-2003, 01:54 PM
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If you don't have the oomph to take off the large nut find a tire store. Slip them a few bucks and have them loosen the nuts for you with their 1/2" or 3/4" impacts. You tighten it back with the breaker bar and pin it to drive home. Do your thing on the bearings then tighten it back as best you can and take it back to the tire shop. Be sure to let them know that the $$$ is for both directions on the nuts.
Here is the trick on using an impact to tighten the nuts: Run them tight with the impact and check where the next cotter pin alignment is. Hammer the nuts till you match this up. Install cotter pins.
Here is the trick on using an impact to tighten the nuts: Run them tight with the impact and check where the next cotter pin alignment is. Hammer the nuts till you match this up. Install cotter pins.
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12-11-2003, 01:36 AM
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Good pictures. You are going to replace the inner bearing too?
If you look at the stub axle you will see a grove where the race of the outer roller bearing rested. If this is really deep you should replace the stub axle too.
If the nut was loose you may have to replace the hub and the stub axle.
Oh by the way you don't have to disconnect the caliper from the brake lines. Just open up the clip and swing the caliper out of the way on the flex hose.
If you look at the stub axle you will see a grove where the race of the outer roller bearing rested. If this is really deep you should replace the stub axle too.
If the nut was loose you may have to replace the hub and the stub axle.
Oh by the way you don't have to disconnect the caliper from the brake lines. Just open up the clip and swing the caliper out of the way on the flex hose.
12-11-2003, 08:50 AM
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Yes - replacing both bearings. The stub axles is fine, I was lucky. Even the spacers look good. You can see where the seal "rode", but it is not worn.
That bolt was a, well, really tight. It helped being 6'4" and 260 lbs. Also, a big breaker bar and a 36mm 6 point socket.
About the brakes, I learned that after the fact. Oh well, time to bleed them anyway.
Tonight I will remove the inner bearing and clean the heck out of everything. Then remove CV axle on the other side. Thought about doing the bearings on the other side too, but they spin great and are silent. I decided against it . . .
Thank you - appreciate your input!
That bolt was a, well, really tight. It helped being 6'4" and 260 lbs. Also, a big breaker bar and a 36mm 6 point socket.
About the brakes, I learned that after the fact. Oh well, time to bleed them anyway.
Tonight I will remove the inner bearing and clean the heck out of everything. Then remove CV axle on the other side. Thought about doing the bearings on the other side too, but they spin great and are silent. I decided against it . . .
Thank you - appreciate your input!
12-11-2003, 10:29 AM
#10
Three Wheelin'
Steve:
If you can see the wear pattern in the spacers, then you need to replace them.
I thought the sparers were OK when I did a bearing change (both sides) on my '84, so I just reinstalled them. Less than 2 months later the passenger side was rumbling.
When I got the bearings out, the outer bearing's outer race was cracked in two places, and the grease was loaded with rust. The driver side was full of rust and the inner and outer bearings races had pits.
Trust me, replace the spacers.
I bought new bearings, new seals, and new spacers
If you can see the wear pattern in the spacers, then you need to replace them.
I thought the sparers were OK when I did a bearing change (both sides) on my '84, so I just reinstalled them. Less than 2 months later the passenger side was rumbling.
When I got the bearings out, the outer bearing's outer race was cracked in two places, and the grease was loaded with rust. The driver side was full of rust and the inner and outer bearings races had pits.
Trust me, replace the spacers.
I bought new bearings, new seals, and new spacers
12-11-2003, 12:48 PM
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Cliff, You refering to the early rear axles or the ones on your 87? I admit I haven't taken any later bearings apart. I do have a set of the later trailing arms in the garage.
The biggest problem I've seen with the older axles is the inner race of the outer bearing wearing a grove in the stub axle. This allows the outer spacer to wobble in the seal wearing it out early. This lets water in quicker than the path through the splines.
Driving through deep water is NOT good for the bearings.
The biggest problem I've seen with the older axles is the inner race of the outer bearing wearing a grove in the stub axle. This allows the outer spacer to wobble in the seal wearing it out early. This lets water in quicker than the path through the splines.
Driving through deep water is NOT good for the bearings.
