Where's the tow hook stowed on an S2?
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, the S2 isn't exactly a high compression engine. The only reason I'd look for an "upgrade" is this motor is clearly almost new, which doesn't give me a lot of faith in the standard types.
#17
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I do not think the engine is going to be that much tighter "almost new" vs old nor do I think a starter is going to get weak unless it's about dead (bad bushings, brushes, windings, etc.)
My general impression is that good used OEM is often better than an OK rebuild (better than a cheapo rebuild) and you just never know about aftermarket "upgraded" parts.
In this case IMO getting a higher toque version of a starter which has plenty of torque standard is just lighting $150 on fire. It'd be like upgrading my toaster to grade 12.9 hardware. It'll make toast and not fall apart whether I do that or not.
My general impression is that good used OEM is often better than an OK rebuild (better than a cheapo rebuild) and you just never know about aftermarket "upgraded" parts.
In this case IMO getting a higher toque version of a starter which has plenty of torque standard is just lighting $150 on fire. It'd be like upgrading my toaster to grade 12.9 hardware. It'll make toast and not fall apart whether I do that or not.
#18
Nordschleife Master
I do not think the engine is going to be that much tighter "almost new" vs old nor do I think a starter is going to get weak unless it's about dead (bad bushings, brushes, windings, etc.)
My general impression is that good used OEM is often better than an OK rebuild (better than a cheapo rebuild) and you just never know about aftermarket "upgraded" parts.
In this case IMO getting a higher toque version of a starter which has plenty of torque standard is just lighting $150 on fire. It'd be like upgrading my toaster to grade 12.9 hardware. It'll make toast and not fall apart whether I do that or not.
My general impression is that good used OEM is often better than an OK rebuild (better than a cheapo rebuild) and you just never know about aftermarket "upgraded" parts.
In this case IMO getting a higher toque version of a starter which has plenty of torque standard is just lighting $150 on fire. It'd be like upgrading my toaster to grade 12.9 hardware. It'll make toast and not fall apart whether I do that or not.
Superior design at a lower cost than OEM and Bosch
Smaller & lighter than OEM and Bosch
Improved heat resistance & durability, especially for race or forced induction applications
High torque is ideal for high compression engines
Lower amperage draw is easier on aging Porsche electrical systems
No affiliation, just a happy customer.
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
OK great, if someone needs more torque from the starter or is eager to shave off a pound of weight it's probably the right product for them.
There is a before and after video in this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...starter-9.html
I have had no trouble with stock starters, even on the blown 968 (centrifugal blower though so no significant resistance at cranking speed). A high compression race engine might be a different story. Looks like a new 944 starter is $110 and remans are $75 and up so it's a significant premium for a starter that'll start the car vs. a starter that'll start the car. But to each their own.
There is a before and after video in this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...starter-9.html
I have had no trouble with stock starters, even on the blown 968 (centrifugal blower though so no significant resistance at cranking speed). A high compression race engine might be a different story. Looks like a new 944 starter is $110 and remans are $75 and up so it's a significant premium for a starter that'll start the car vs. a starter that'll start the car. But to each their own.
#20
Nordschleife Master
OK great, if someone needs more torque from the starter or is eager to shave off a pound of weight it's probably the right product for them.
There is a before and after video in this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...starter-9.html
I have had no trouble with stock starters, even on the blown 968 (centrifugal blower though so no significant resistance at cranking speed). A high compression race engine might be a different story. Looks like a new 944 starter is $110 and remans are $75 and up so it's a significant premium for a starter that'll start the car vs. a starter that'll start the car. But to each their own.
There is a before and after video in this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...starter-9.html
I have had no trouble with stock starters, even on the blown 968 (centrifugal blower though so no significant resistance at cranking speed). A high compression race engine might be a different story. Looks like a new 944 starter is $110 and remans are $75 and up so it's a significant premium for a starter that'll start the car vs. a starter that'll start the car. But to each their own.
#21
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Not Bosch (neither is the IMI) however there is a new option on Partsgeek. I'm not so sure about Bosch quality these days and they may not even bother to make new 944 starters.
If someone needs a starter and stock is OK my suggestion is to get a good used one as these seem to be a very reliable part and in some cases OE quality is the best even when used. The only one I know of personally that actually failed did so after it pushed the car through the garage door when the wiring crumbled.
If someone needs a starter and stock is OK my suggestion is to get a good used one as these seem to be a very reliable part and in some cases OE quality is the best even when used. The only one I know of personally that actually failed did so after it pushed the car through the garage door when the wiring crumbled.
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So I almost took the starter off today and while I was doing it I think I may have found the problem. The small power wire going to the solenoid is held on by an 8mm nut that's stripped. I can't get it off with a wrench. It must be cross threaded and it's probably not making good contact.
I noticed it during the install but I got a pretty good torque for an 8mm nut. Oh well.
It's the one circled in red below. Now I have to figure out how to get it off without screweing up the harness. I'm thinking dremel...
I noticed it during the install but I got a pretty good torque for an 8mm nut. Oh well.
It's the one circled in red below. Now I have to figure out how to get it off without screweing up the harness. I'm thinking dremel...
#24
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Yes if you can get it off with the dremel there might be clean threads that'll still work with a few washers. Worst case, the whole solenoid can be replaced for $20-30
I guess you could also run another nut on there using the stripped nut as a washer and just keep on truckin'.
-Joel.
I guess you could also run another nut on there using the stripped nut as a washer and just keep on truckin'.
-Joel.
#25
My first thought too. For removal I would try gripping it with small Vise-grips and pulling back while trying to back it off. When all else fails get the Dremel tool
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
You can't see it in the picture, but the nut is already pretty well chewed up from my attempt with small vice grips while it was still on the car. I'll try again with it off since there's more clearance now but I don't hold out much hope.
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
In the end, it was the dremel that got it off. I had to cut the nut on both sides to get it off.
After that, I put it on the bench and hooked it to a 12V charger/starter as shown in the photo. I need confirmation the leads are correctly connected, I believe they are.
The motor doesn't turn in this setup so I conclude the starter is bad?
Thanks,
After that, I put it on the bench and hooked it to a 12V charger/starter as shown in the photo. I need confirmation the leads are correctly connected, I believe they are.
The motor doesn't turn in this setup so I conclude the starter is bad?
Thanks,
#29
Hates Family Guy
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
No, that's not going to work. Put the red one on the cable going into the starter and touch the black one to the case. Put it in a vice or hold it down because it has a lot of torque. If that works then hook the wire back to the solenoid, attach the red to the other large post on the solenoid, and then run a jumper from the post the red one is attached to and the small post.
#30
Drifting
Looks like something was tapping a couple teeth on the flywheel and the red wire looks 'bubbly' going into the harness in the picture. That could be an illusion/dirt.
Post a picture of the starter gear.
Post a picture of the starter gear.