Questions about 16v into pre 85.5 car
11-13-2017, 05:25 PM
#32
Racer
Thread Starter
S engine went in last night. It looks nice. Now to make it run (aka the hard part).
I think I have the majority of the wires figured out; big shout out to Odonnell for the late vs. early body harness to engine harness connection diagram/table. That was massively helpful. There was only one discrepancy: my number 7 slot on the male 16V connector was empty, whereas the diagram called for a red/black wire for the ignition switch. There was a solid red wire in a different pin slot, I'll gamble that that one is the ignition switch, I'll know as soon as I try to start the engine.
I'm still not sure where to tap into 12V with the negative cable that runs to the coil/ICM, does this just get constant 12V? and if so, can I just wire it to any source of 12V?
The wire that carries the ignition signal to the ICM is shielded, and has a pin for the outer sheath where the body harness connects to the engine harness. The 16V wiring diagram lists this as going to slot 14 on the DME. There is a large black wire on the 16V engine harness connector that is unlisted in the diagram, I'm guessing these two connect. Does a shielded wire need current in the sheath metal to work properly?
Last but not least, there is a large 12 pin connector that comes off the engine harness on the IP side of the firewall. All of the wires come directly from the DME except one large green one, which comes from the engine bay. I assume this has something to do with the IP and isn't needed for my application, but I can't find it listed anywhere. Pictures attached.
I think I have the majority of the wires figured out; big shout out to Odonnell for the late vs. early body harness to engine harness connection diagram/table. That was massively helpful. There was only one discrepancy: my number 7 slot on the male 16V connector was empty, whereas the diagram called for a red/black wire for the ignition switch. There was a solid red wire in a different pin slot, I'll gamble that that one is the ignition switch, I'll know as soon as I try to start the engine.
I'm still not sure where to tap into 12V with the negative cable that runs to the coil/ICM, does this just get constant 12V? and if so, can I just wire it to any source of 12V?
The wire that carries the ignition signal to the ICM is shielded, and has a pin for the outer sheath where the body harness connects to the engine harness. The 16V wiring diagram lists this as going to slot 14 on the DME. There is a large black wire on the 16V engine harness connector that is unlisted in the diagram, I'm guessing these two connect. Does a shielded wire need current in the sheath metal to work properly?
Last but not least, there is a large 12 pin connector that comes off the engine harness on the IP side of the firewall. All of the wires come directly from the DME except one large green one, which comes from the engine bay. I assume this has something to do with the IP and isn't needed for my application, but I can't find it listed anywhere. Pictures attached.
11-20-2017, 11:05 AM
#33
Racer
Thread Starter
Got everything loosely together last night and tested for spark. Seems to have good strong blue spark at every other rotation (to my genuine shock). Tried to get oil pressure by cranking it for 10 seconds at a time with fuel pump fuse pulled. Couldn't build pressure (I didn't prime the pump), and after a while, smoke came from the back of the starter solenoid. Not sure what that's about; still works fine. Decided to give it fuel and see if it would start. It fires while the starter is helping it, but when you let go of the starter it dies (there is a whining, almost gear noise sound as the engine slows to a stop, not loud but noticable).
I suspect it is just very low on gas, as I ran it very low before the job in case something flammable happened. Perhaps with the severe upward angle of the car it's not sucking fuel. I'll give it more tonight and see if that helps. Other than that, anyone familiar with this type of no start condition? I expected either no spark, no fuel, or no fire, but this at least gives me hope that I'm not too far off.
I suspect it is just very low on gas, as I ran it very low before the job in case something flammable happened. Perhaps with the severe upward angle of the car it's not sucking fuel. I'll give it more tonight and see if that helps. Other than that, anyone familiar with this type of no start condition? I expected either no spark, no fuel, or no fire, but this at least gives me hope that I'm not too far off.
12-09-2017, 12:40 AM
#34
Racer
Thread Starter
SUCCESS!
After many cold nights in the garage learning how to use a multimeter and read wiring diagrams, I found the issue that was keeping the engine from starting.
I will do a full write up of the things I learned during the process to help anyone who might do this in the future. Thank you all very much for your help.
After many cold nights in the garage learning how to use a multimeter and read wiring diagrams, I found the issue that was keeping the engine from starting.
I will do a full write up of the things I learned during the process to help anyone who might do this in the future. Thank you all very much for your help.
02-28-2018, 02:44 PM
#35
Racer
Thread Starter
Hi guys,
I've been enjoying my car with the nice weather recently. The odometer rolled over 100 miles today with the new engine. I have been limiting myself to 50% throttle and 3000 rpms. Is this sort of break in period as necessary when the cylinders haven't been touched, only new rings? I'd like to have some fun with it but I don't want all my hard work to go to waste because I was impatient. How long should I wait?
I've been enjoying my car with the nice weather recently. The odometer rolled over 100 miles today with the new engine. I have been limiting myself to 50% throttle and 3000 rpms. Is this sort of break in period as necessary when the cylinders haven't been touched, only new rings? I'd like to have some fun with it but I don't want all my hard work to go to waste because I was impatient. How long should I wait?
02-28-2018, 05:17 PM
#36
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Congrats! Please do a full write up when you get there.
Everybody will say something different but here's my cautious tip: 3000 miles. Do an oil change after the first 1000.
Everybody will say something different but here's my cautious tip: 3000 miles. Do an oil change after the first 1000.
03-04-2018, 04:59 AM
#38
Three Wheelin'
What break in? Rings needs load not babying... Proper way is to start the engine for the first time with some mineral oil, ket it run for 15-20 minutes, then drain the oil and change filter and fill with some semi-synthetic or mineral and drive for few hundred miles/km with decent load. It means having full throttle between 2500-4500 rpm where engine makes most torque, high rpm is not necessary. It is the cylinder pressure that makes rings seat not piston ring material tension!
Babying the engine for several thousand kilometers is harmful for the engine and is a good way to make your rings have blowby.
Babying the engine for several thousand kilometers is harmful for the engine and is a good way to make your rings have blowby.
