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Emission Failure........

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Old 12-04-2003, 06:47 PM
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goingboeing737
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Default Emission Failure........

SORRY THE IMAGE IS SOOOO BIG, I'VE TRIED TO SCAN IT SMALLER.....

Car failed state emission test today.

Last year I had to put on a new Cat. and 02 sensor to pass.

Since last inspection, I had the injectors rebuit/serviced at RC Engineering in Ca.

I think the numbers point towards it being too rich...

What do these numbers mean, and where do I start looking to solve the problem ?????
Old 12-04-2003, 07:05 PM
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Zero10
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The numbers definately point to being too rich. I have the same problem. I am in the process of fixing mine.
Check your fuel pressure, I believe my problem stems from a bad fuel pressure regulator. My numbers were actually worse than yours, at an idle, my HC was over 1000, and my CO was 9%.
Old 12-04-2003, 07:08 PM
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goingboeing737
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New fuel rail, new reg and damper, new fuel filter.

Possibly a leaking or bad seal on an injector?????????? I do get a gas smell in the garage when i pull it in.
Old 12-04-2003, 07:11 PM
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Kevin Baker
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I think it may be a BIT rich. As for why would it be soo rich? I'd start with the air temp sender in the AFM. If she no worky correct that'd send a bad signal to the DME. Look on the wilks site for the testing method for the temp sender. Find that print it and stop by (ive got a multimeter and a spare afm).
Old 12-04-2003, 07:30 PM
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goingboeing737
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Find that print it and stop by (ive got a multimeter and a spare afm).
She barely made it to the corner and back..... Clutch is getting real noisy and hard to get into gear. You however are welcome to drop by and see my FANTASTIC garage,,I have never had one so clean and organized.

Think I'm going to DFW to help Matt this weekend.

BTW I got my manual steering rack today
Old 12-04-2003, 07:32 PM
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Is it so rich that you are getting bad mileage from it?
Could be a DME temperature sensor, I hadn't considered that earlier. check the AFM operation as well, and if you can, just double check the O2 sensor reading. It should indicate that it is rich. (I think that's a high voltage, 0.7-0.9V)
If you think it's a leaky injector, do a leak-down test on the fuel rail. Should be 14psi after 20 minutes.
Old 12-04-2003, 07:36 PM
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Mark Parker
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It's QUITE rich, so much so that it's driving both CO and HC out of spec. Since the only thing different between the passing test last year and the failure this year is the injectors, and they can certainly cause an over rich condition, I'd start there. You might be able to find a bad one by pulling them out of the intake, laying them on shop towels and bringing the fuel system up to pressure. They shouldn't drip. If all is well there, DISABLE THE IGNITION and crank the engine watching for uniform and good spray patterns (nice cones), a funky looking spray would give away a bad injector. If no problems are found, then I'd go forward with other tests, but starting with the last component that was changed before the problem began is good policy.
Old 12-04-2003, 07:59 PM
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Matt H
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Real rich, need to check the ignition system as well. How are the plugs, wires, cap, etc? If you guys only lived here! I would just "circumvent" the system for you.
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Old 12-04-2003, 08:01 PM
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Oh yeh, I forgot, new temp sensor as well. Mileage has not seemed to be bad, of course anything "seems" good compared to my Nissan Frontier.

I'm gonna go down the injector road to start. Probably next week.

Thanks for the input and verifying it is rich. The guys at the testing facility ie..."gas station" don't know what any of these numbers mean, just that you pass or fail.....
Old 12-04-2003, 09:00 PM
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That is the biggest problem with our testing system, anyone with the money can buy the machine BUT not everyone is a certified repair facility or even an Certified Emissions Repair facility. How many miles a year are you driving it? We can discuss waivers when you are you, likely you qualify.
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Old 12-04-2003, 10:28 PM
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Matt

Ignition system less than 8 months old. New cap wires rotor plugs.

3000 miles since last years inspection. I tried the waiver thing last year, they're kinda "***** skulls" down here with that program,,,lots of hoops of varying sizes that you must jump through.....

I just pulled my report from last year:

The top number is high speed test. Bottom number is low speed.

HC PPM 50 (2002) >> 340 (2003)
25 (2002) >> 345 (2003)

CO% 0.03 (2002) >> 6.70 (2003)
0.02 (2002) >> 6.30 (2003)

NOX 55.0 (2002) >> 188 (2003)
30.0 (2002) >> 358 (2003)

The Cat is 12 months old (replaced last year to pass inspection), whatever the problem is, it is killing the Cat.
Old 12-04-2003, 11:05 PM
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Running rich will do that. They also dont have a choice on a waiver if the car is used less than 5K per year.
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Old 12-05-2003, 02:08 AM
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Tell me about this:

"Ignition system less than 8 months old. New cap wires rotor plugs."

What type of ignition system? Wires? Plugs? Coil? ???
Old 12-05-2003, 02:23 AM
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Cap, rotor and wires are Borg Warner. The plugs and coil are Bosch.

Going back and looking at my receipts, they are all a year old. Replaced them last year when I got the car and was getting ready to get it inspected. All except the rotor, it took me 6 months to get that $%#@^%$ set screw thing out..
Old 12-05-2003, 02:54 AM
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Put a small wire in the O2 sensor plug (back of the engine) and test it with the plug still connected. If the system is in closed loop, the reading should bounce between 0.7 Volts and 0.3 volts. I bet you will see the reading always at around 0.9 volts, running rich. Check the voltage (engine and exhaust hot) with the key on but the engine off. It should show a voltage around 0.4 - 0.5 volts. Start the engine, if it is running rich the voltage will be around 0.9 volts or so, create a small vacuum leak, this should drop the voltage a tenth or two. If it does, the O2 sensor is working.


If the O2 sensor checks out, could be the AFM, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulation. If the system is in closed loop and emissions are high, check the cat.


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