Chris Ross

I have just pick up a 914/type 4 engine, it's potentially going into a 550 replica. Apparently it had new bearings and rings a few years back, hasn't run since. There is no flywheel attached, and when I hand turn it with fan pukkey the crankshaft has a fair bit of slop. Is this normal without the flywheel fitted? Does the flywheel align the crankshaft and keep it in place?

hermich

Yes, the flywheel and and I believe three shims of varied thickness are used to make up the proper end play. I don't recall the proper end play off hand there is particular reason for using a total of three shims. Just google Type IV crankshaft end play. Also, I believe I saw a you tube video on the subject as well. Sorry, I'm not more specific, but this should get you headed in the right direction.

retread

The above reply is pretty accurate. Target end-play is 0.0004 or 0.10 mm. Shims are available in 0.0095, 0.018, 0.0134, 0.0142, and 0.0150.

With the flywheel installed check the end play (Rubber mallet or dead blow one way, measure , then opposite and measure) with a dial indicator with no shims, do the math, and add shims, then recheck. repaet as reqired to get within-5% +10%.

EVIL if to tight, every clutch operation presses on the #1 main and it will eventually rotate #1 main enough to cut off the oil supply to the adjacent rods.

Try to find a green Haynes 914 manual. All this is from there. Page 33. (Try half price and Amazone.

Here are some bits of advice for your 550 replica engine:
* Get a new flywheel and have teh dickens lightened out of it. Do not spend the money to lighten a used one that has been milled for abused clutch repair.
* Several years old, Replace the Flywheel seal. The one you have will likely be as hard as a rock.
* Do not forget to install the O-ring inside the flywheel cup that surrounds the crank.
* Lubricate the new FW seal and the shims with Moly Grease
* Use a new lock-plate every time (No "flips)
* Use five new flywheel bolts every time ; both eh lock-plate and the Bolts are "one trip ponies"

retread

Oh I forgot. Lubricate all O-rings with Parker synthetic o-ring seal.

Since the engine is out; speaking of o-rings, those on the push rod tubes may need replacing as well, or at least look for signs of a clear grease (That would be the Parker product.)

Lots of folks used (PermiteXXX) Silicone sealant on those, and that is a mistake. The factory installed O-rings because the engine expands greatly ( 3/4 of an inch from cold to hot) and the push-rod tube o-rings s need to slide inside the surface they were designed to slide in.

Properly lubricated o-rings on properly cleaned case and head parts will last a very long time. Silicone fixed sealant is destined to fail almost immediately.

Chris Ross

Thanks team, so with no flywheel is it normal to have slop (like 1/4 inch) in crankshaft, I don't want to get a flywheel only to find this engine is poked. I plan to borescope the cylinders, the heads /valves look mint. I don't want to split the case. If it's munted then I have a brand new Ej257 which was intended for the car which ill continue with.

dr914

yes but you can look at the flywheel end of the crankshaft to make sure that it is not beaten up