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URGENT! Where is "factory" tie down for transport

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Old 07-30-2001, 02:22 PM
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Rob Quarles
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Unhappy URGENT! Where is "factory" tie down for transport

I just received my '74 2.0 from CA and it was damaged by the transport company (never mind it was also 2 1/2 weeks late!). The driver put a chain hook into the small hole in the sheet metal "triangle" that ties the rear of the floor pan into the longitudinal, causing it to "tear". My question is, where IS the factory specified transport attachment point for the rear of a '74 914? The transport agent (Express Auto Transport) is trying to weasel out by saying that is the factory tie down point. ANY help would be immensely appreciated!
Old 07-30-2001, 03:01 PM
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DERSIX
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Rob,
There is no specfic factory tie down hook...but there is a toe hook for flat toeing which could be used to tie down for transit. The toe hook attachment is through a hole in the left rear area of the bumper. It will have a pop off cap covering the hole. A factory I bolt( usually found in the supplied tool kit) is then screwed into the hole from which you can tie down or toe.
Pete
Old 07-30-2001, 03:38 PM
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Rob Quarles
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Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I knew about that one. My "new" one even had the tow eye bolt in the front trunk.

I spoke to Brad Mayeur and he couldn't remember where the "right" place was, but the triangle WASN'T it! He remembers some of the new ones coming into the dealer with the same damage or worse. Sometimes the triangle would be pulled completely off! He thought it was the engine cross bar, but he didn't know for sure.
Old 07-31-2001, 09:47 AM
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DERSIX
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Rob,
I use to use the half shafts for the rear tie downs and the A arms for the front for my 914-6 until I installed "I" hooks on the rear shock bolt and on the front bolt of the torsion bar mount.
Pete
Old 08-01-2001, 11:15 PM
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Roland Kunz
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Hello

The cars where shiped RoRo and afik the tires where fixed.
This was the usiually methode for Volkswagen on the Volkswagen car transporter.

Front and rear towhook are not usable for tieing downs. The front unit will be bend downwards ant the rear eye gets bend too or brakes away.

I mostly use the forward engine mount bar on the 6 I tie down the exhaust on the trany banana and the frontend on the torsion tube.

I don´t use hocks on the car i just sling the tie down rope around and have both ends on the trailer or floor.

Most shipers have to short ropes layed out for the later cars who must have tie down points. This will force to use whatever is possible. Correct tie down says not to use moving parts, engines, axles.

Grüsse

Grüsse
Old 08-02-2001, 09:36 AM
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Rob Quarles
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I'm not familiar with the terms "RoRo" and "afik". Could you explain further? Do you have any documentation that explains and /or illustrates the correct tie down method?
Old 08-09-2001, 08:58 PM
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SuperMike
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Depending on the kind of wheels on your car, my method might work for you. My "six" has Fuchs 5-spoke wheels. I pass axle straps through an appropriate hole in each of the rear wheels and chain them down. I then attach ratchet straps to a strap passed through the tow hook at the front and snug the car down. Putting the car into gear and applying the parking brake also helps keep the car in place.
Old 08-11-2001, 03:28 PM
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DonNewton
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"RoRo" is "Roll-on, Roll-off." A shipping method wherein the vehicle is rolled, or driven onto a ship, and rolled off (driven off) the ship at its destination. AFIK=As Far as I Know (common internet disclaimer).
Old 08-15-2001, 07:29 PM
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Irishdriver
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Talking

There is no official tie down point that I know of.

The best practice used by most transporters, ferry operators and race car teams is to tie the wheels down and let the car suspension protect the car.

If you tie the body - as happened your car - the sunspension can travel causing the rope/chain to damage where it is connected to the body. Chains are the worst as they have absolutely no "give".

Irishdriver.
Old 08-17-2001, 02:56 PM
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Hello

THX Rob


If you trailer the car you try to have no "living" body so you tie down the body.

A living ( swinging ) body on a trailer is very dangerous ( beleive me I made some 200 000 mls trailering cars and I had some realy hairy situations and "lost" one Race Opel Ascona A and that car had a very hard suspension ).

Most companys have tight down procedures shown in the manuall or in the repair manuall ( Well thats some 4 pages on Mercedes Air suspension and M100 cars )

If you look at Ferrys and see how they secure the trucks ( hopefully on the chassis) and think about the wight relations you will find out why.
Free swinging load can even make trouble on a ferry ship.

On most ports you will find specialist "packers" who fill up the containers and ships. Those people mostly know there stuff.

Grüsse
Old 09-09-2001, 02:45 PM
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tod914
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the car should be soft tied through the wheels only for transportation - Intercity whom i've used - has a special fastener that goes over the tire & wheel & secures it in that manner - My car got a minor scrape on the bottom undercoating -big deal - I would highly recommend them. They are PCA approved - Under no conditions go with dependable auto shippers - I had a 6K claim with them back in 1999 - very difficult to deal with.

Good luck - get your insurance comapany involved - they will go after them & you can get your car repaired
Old 09-10-2001, 02:27 PM
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Joe R
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Just comleted 1200 mile trip with my new 914. Used a U-HAUL car transport real nice Aluminum constructed one. I used the nylon web straps that are designed to wrap the tire and hold the front down. Didn't use the chain supplied on the rear of the trailer. I used 1 1/2 inch ratchet straps through the wheels to the trailer two straight to the trailer and two cross wise wheel to trailer. Over all the trip was very bumpy with all the road construction. That car did not move even 1/4 inch in any direction.



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