'76 912 racer
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
'76 912 racer
Okay, I'm completly ignorant on race/DE cars. I did own a 912E since 1981 which I gave to my youngest a couple of years ago. Now I own a C4S...not the same, but, well, nice.
What would it take to make a 76 912 a competitive DE/race car. Would it be cost prohibitive? As I said, I know nothing.
Anyplace I can go to get info?
Thanks
What would it take to make a 76 912 a competitive DE/race car. Would it be cost prohibitive? As I said, I know nothing.
Anyplace I can go to get info?
Thanks
#2
Drifting
Thread Starter
Anyone point me in the right direction?
#3
Burning Brakes
Well, when you say "competitive" what are trying to accomplish? I track a 1967 912 and of the dozens and dozens of 911s and 944 turbos I've had, my 912 has always been my favorite. Obviously its strength is not outright HP. Though I do have a cam/big bore kit/head work/exhaust etc...etc...etc.... approx 125hp. Its real strength is sub-2000lbs, lowered, konis, sway bars and R-comp tires. Low power cars demand that you run perfect lines and keep the momentum going. They make you a better driver, and once you've mastered the car itself you will be formidable. Brakes and handling are everything! It's a lot cheaper to lose weight then improve handling and then lastly put $$$ in the engine. I found my money was best spent on building reliability and safety i.e. seats, seatbelts, roll bar, then making sure everything feelss correct shift bushings, steering wheel, pedals etc...
#4
Burning Brakes
Well, when you say "competitive" what are trying to accomplish? I track a 1967 912 and of the dozens and dozens of 911s and 944 turbos I've had, my 912 has always been my favorite. Obviously its strength is not outright HP. Though I do have a cam/big bore kit/head work/exhaust etc...etc...etc.... approx 125hp. Its real strength is sub-2000lbs, lowered, konis, sway bars and R-comp tires. Low power cars demand that you run perfect lines and keep the momentum going. They make you a better driver, and once you've mastered the car itself you will be formidable. Brakes and handling are everything! It's a lot cheaper to lose weight then improve handling and then lastly put $$$ in the engine. I found my money was best spent on building reliability and safety i.e. seats, seatbelts, roll bar, then making sure everything feelss correct shift bushings, steering wheel, pedals etc...
'89 928S4 GP White/Black
'76 912E Silver/Black sunroof
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks Butzip. I suppose it is an oxymoron to want to race w/o spending a BUNCH of money. But......I really liked my 912E, low weight, and I think most mods could come from '75 to 87 911's, which could be a little less expensive. The Pancake four is quite reliable and tunable. Any ideas?
I am not "up" on this stuff. Bigger Brakes...from what? 930 turbo?
Suspension? Konis?
I am really interested on what one would do.
I am not "up" on this stuff. Bigger Brakes...from what? 930 turbo?
Suspension? Konis?
I am really interested on what one would do.
#6
Burning Brakes
Depends on how far you want to go really.
Weight loss:
Shedding the interior won't cost anything.... beyond that, things start adding up. racing seats & belts, RS carpet kit and door panels. Replace glass with lexan, metal panels with fiberglass/cabon fiber big bucks and body work....
Suspension:
Swaybars 19mm front and rear / Boge (good), Bilstein (better) Koni (best) / Torsion bars, you can use what you have until you start really pushing the limits
Tires:
R compounds are awesome, get some Kumho V710s or BFGs or Toyo 888 etc...etc...
Brakes:
Should be no need to change or improve the brakes. You have the same brakes as a 911 and you're starting at a lower weight in stock form already so if you loss weight beyonf that
Remember by shedding pounds, everything is more effective. You'll stop and turn quicker, tires and brakes last longer it's a win win! You'll never win the HP battle so this is the best approach IMO. at least it's worked for me and I haven't gone to the extreme. I could get another 150-200lbs out of the car easily.
Weight loss:
Shedding the interior won't cost anything.... beyond that, things start adding up. racing seats & belts, RS carpet kit and door panels. Replace glass with lexan, metal panels with fiberglass/cabon fiber big bucks and body work....
Suspension:
Swaybars 19mm front and rear / Boge (good), Bilstein (better) Koni (best) / Torsion bars, you can use what you have until you start really pushing the limits
Tires:
R compounds are awesome, get some Kumho V710s or BFGs or Toyo 888 etc...etc...
Brakes:
Should be no need to change or improve the brakes. You have the same brakes as a 911 and you're starting at a lower weight in stock form already so if you loss weight beyonf that
Remember by shedding pounds, everything is more effective. You'll stop and turn quicker, tires and brakes last longer it's a win win! You'll never win the HP battle so this is the best approach IMO. at least it's worked for me and I haven't gone to the extreme. I could get another 150-200lbs out of the car easily.
Trending Topics
#8
Instructor
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://www.912bbs.org/
There's an "E" section and competition section. You can do a lot of things with that "E" engine. Also look here:
http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/
Scott
There's an "E" section and competition section. You can do a lot of things with that "E" engine. Also look here:
http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/
Scott