Thermo-Time switch
#1
Racer
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Newton, MA
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I suspect my T-switch has gone south. At cold start, unless I give the pedal some gas while it's cranking, it may stall out after I release the key because the idle is at 300 rpm or so. But if it hangs on for about 5 seconds with a poor idle, it then goes through the standard routine... up to 2000 rpm for about 15-20 seconds, then settle down to 900-950 rpm. On warm start, no problem and all other driving is fine.
There looks like a lot of plumbing to move out of the way to get to the T-switch. Is there a way to test the switch without taking all that's in my out? Maybe volt meter across some terminals- while cranking or before, or something? And, is it just the intercooler and turbo hosing that would allow access to the chain cover to reach the T-switch.
Appreciate some words of wisdom from anyone who has been there before.
There looks like a lot of plumbing to move out of the way to get to the T-switch. Is there a way to test the switch without taking all that's in my out? Maybe volt meter across some terminals- while cranking or before, or something? And, is it just the intercooler and turbo hosing that would allow access to the chain cover to reach the T-switch.
Appreciate some words of wisdom from anyone who has been there before.
#2
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Going up to 2k rpms seems very high, I would first check that your cold control pressure is correct. If it is then check that your cold start valve is working before replacing the Thermal time switch, which I agree will be a pain to replace.
#3
Rennlist Lifetime Member
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I would bet that the issue is to much fuel or not enough on start up. Perhaps a lack of pressure from the fuel accumulator or even a dead AAV which works in conjunction with the AAR.