Flat_6_with_Air

Anyone know a good PPI place near Miami, FL? I'm looking at an 87 930 near there.

Question on compression test vs Leakdown. Should you do the leakdown, then check the results and then decide whether to do the compression test? A dealer in AZ wanted $400+ for both tests. Just wondering if there is a way to cut costs on the search budget side of things.

Thanks in advance.

Present:
97 Suburban
96 Zetor 3340
02 Polaris Ranger

Previous:
69 911S
70 911E (hydro neurotic struts)
70 914/4
72 914/4
71 914/4 converted to 914/6
73 Camaro - 350/350
87 Conquest TSI
8? RX-7

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi:

I wish I could recommend someone in your area to perfrom the PPI; perhaps you'll get some feedback from some locals here.

I will tell you that you should have a compression test followed by a leakdown test, before you buy this car. The source of any leakage MUST be pinpointed for that test to have any value.

I understand that these diagostics are not cheap, but please believe me; its FAR cheaper than dealing with the consequences later on. I do not wish to scare you but a proper rebuild of a Turbo motor is in the $ 12-15K range and that's simply reality.

You really want to discover any issues before money changes hands. There is nothing cheap about a 930.

Flat_6_with_Air

Thaks Steve for the feedback. I guess my questions was really how to minimize the upfront costs and the sequence of tests. And it sounds like the compression test is first. I used to do a wet/dry compression test and I never heard of the leakdown till I read replies on this forum.. are both wet + dry still recommended as the first step and then do the leakdown?
thanks

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi Briggs:

I would do a hot compression test followed by the leakdown.

Heres the deal about leakdown tests,....this is something that came from piston aircraft engine diagnosis and its VERY useful.

Each cylinder is pressurized with air at TDC and the percentage of air leakage is noted from the tester. Here is the great part: noting the numbers on the guage, you see WHERE the leakage is coming from.

If you hear the hissing from the tailpipes, the exhaust valves are not sealing well; if you hear hissing from the air cleaner inlet, the intake valves are not sealing well; if you hear hissing from the oil tank filler tube, the rings are not sealing well.

1-6% leakage is OK

7-10% leakage deserves a closer look

Anything over 10% must be investigated and quantified. If thats from the rings, I'd not buy it. Leakage from valves is usually carbon and that can usually be cured with MotorVac or Techron,...

Leandro

Try BUTCH STOKES AUTOMOTIVE 1-954-458-4466.

There are also:
PROTOTECH
GULF PERFORMANCE
TURBO WERKS
JCM PERFORMANCE

Rico

Butch is one of the best, and honest.
Long time member of PCA goldcoast region.

Flat_6_with_Air

Thanks to everyone that responded. I have selected a 930 closer to home. So I'm not pursuing the FL car anymore. Although from the pix it looked very nice....a 1 owner 87 930, reluctant to sell. thanks again, I would have deleted this post if the forum would have let me.