Steve 935

I have a feeling my LR wheel bearing is shot in one of my 930's. I diconnected the driveshaft from the hub and it still sounds and feels pretty rough in there. My last hope is that when I take off the rotor something is wrong with the parking brake. The parking brake seems to be operating ok though. From what I hear these are two piece rear bearings. Does anyone have tips on tools and methods that worked well on this job?
Thanks,
Steve

ngoldrich

Steve,

years ago I had the same issue. In my case it was the wheel bearings. They are not real easy to do. The easiest way (I found) is to pull the trailing arms off the car so you can pull and press the bearings. You will need to replace the bearings (inner & outer & the crush sleeve).
I think that is it if my memory serves me.
I would replace both sides at the same time. If one is worn out, the other will not be far behind.

Norm

Ron Knowles

Steve,
I've done this a couple of times with the arms in the car. It's not to tough to get them apart but it's a little more work to get everything back together. I've found a couple of things that make re-assembly a lot easier. I have all the bearing and seal numbers if you want to get the replacement parts before you take it all apart. The bearings are fairly standard and you can get them at any auto parts store. You might want to specify the brand you want. The factory used Timken.

Ron.

ngoldrich

Ron,

It's been quite a while since I did mine. Do you have a small press you used to reinstall the bearings since the arms were on the car ?

If so, what kind ? That would be a big time saver next time.

Thanks,
Norm

Ron Knowles

Norm,

No I don't. I use a brass drift to install the races in the arms. A little heat in the arms makes it easier. Pulling the flange through the bearings once you've got the bearings and the inner seal in place is the tricky part. I'm going to send you an e-mail.

Ron

ngoldrich

Ron,

Very clever. I like your approach. Much easier.

Thx,
Norm

Robert K

I just completed this job on my vehicle. It was easier to remove both arms and do it in the vise on the bench. The most difficult part I found was that the inner sutb axle will have the bearing pressed onto it. It can be very difficult to remove that bearing as it tends to pull only the bearing cage off and leaves the race on the stub axle. Use some heat,a good press, and take your time. The races in the trailing arms are easily removed with a brass or aluminum drift, but heat the area around the race with a torch first.Upon reassembly make sure you put the large spacer in, if you start pressing everything together without it you may have to start from scratch. Don't ask me how I know.Best of luck.

Steve 935

I just pulled the rotor off and everything is okay with the parking brake. It is definately the bearing. It sure is funny cause it never made that typical humming noise prior. It just started grinding without any warning.

What do you guys think. Should I pull the trailering arm or do it on the car? I would prefer to leave it on. Any special tools needed for the bearing work.
Thanks,
Steve

TurboRuf

Great timing.

I'm actually going through this same nightmare as well. I had the exact same problem, turned out the PO had over tightened the castle nut and compressed the crush sleeve to much. The bearings showed no sign of visible wear upon inspection. BTW, a new crush sleeve costs around $90.

To get the hub out, I used two 3-foot pry bars and bulled hard… it worked. Getting the bearing off the hub is a completely different story. The tolerance is so tight with these bearing it makes for a major pain to remove. I picked up a tool called a bearing splitter, this gave me the leverage needed to extract it.

I tried getting the bearing races out with the trailing arm on the car, what a major PITA. The race has such a small lip it’s almost impossible to get the leverage necessary to tap it out. I also tried the heat method without success. Needless to say I’m debating what to do next. I didn’t want to pull the arm and then have to go through a re-alignment. Looks like I just might have to after all.

Tools… several people make tools to help with this process. They are very expensive for someone who only plans on doing this once. Some people have successfully fabricated tools to assist in this matter, which sounds like a better option.

This is a very ugly job, not one that I will do again.

A930Rocket

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Ronald Knowles:
<strong>Norm,

No I don't. I use a brass drift to install the races in the arms. A little heat in the arms makes it easier. Pulling the flange through the bearings once you've got the bearings and the inner seal in place is the tricky part. I'm going to send you an e-mail.

Ron</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Don't be shy with your advice. We may all need it at some time or another.

Post away!

Jim

Steve 935

Well I finally got my bearing and hub R&R tool kit.My inner bearing was the culprit. It was practicaly bone dry and in pieces. Did the whole process and it was fairly easy for my first time. I didn't even need to heat the trailering arm. I will do the other side as soon as i have more time.

Steve