Gino

Awhile back, one of you interpreted my fuel smell upon nailing the gas hard with the heat on as a potential leak/crack in the heat exchanger.

my question is, if indeed it is:
1. repairable/weldable? or...
2. replace with SSI or alike? or...
3. is it part of the "system", meaning header and muffler? if yes, just chuck the whole damn thing and go with a Borla, GHL or B&B set-up with everything?

just checking the finances and spring work.

pete77930

Go with #3, I promise you'll be happy.

Dean

#3 is the only option that is any good. It is costly to repair the OE parts. SSI's don't work.
Dean

PorschePhD

Agreed here. The stock heat exchangers will continue to crack and create a problem. I can almost assure you each set I see has a crack somewhere unknown to the owner. The design of the wastegate and crossover pipe grouped with heat and vibration is a recipe for cracks.. While the headers are an improved design without question they offer less weight, faster spool times and a HP gain. Not to mention I am GHLS tech support so install is a snap and they are a lifetime warranty. B&Bs are not. Bottom line is if they crack again they get replaced. Can't beat that <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

Gino

Steven-
thanks for what appears to be the only answer.

Would I be able to detect this problem with my digital read-out CO detector? I don't smell anything with the heat on, not even exhaust. It's only when I jam the pedal that I smell gas. I'd like to be convinced it exchanger cracks, even though I don't see any. I know CO is the big problem here (health-wise).

Since your the GHL Tech Support person, is this a job for the weekend mechanic? What's the parts list and the cost for this. Is engine removal required? Instructions? or, just tell my wrench to do it.....

PorschePhD

Sure a CO meter would pick it up. It may be cracked inside of the heater boxes so you may want to remove the snouts to locate. You really wouldn't be able to rear that form of problem, easily.

The install is a do it yourself type of job if you know how to use a wrench. The hardest part is not breaking the old exhaust studs off. There is no reason to remove the motor. It can all be done on the floor or lift. Drop me a call and I will you through the procedure.

Gino

Steven-
Thanks for the vote of confidence. 17 year old bolts have to be easier than the header studs encountered on my TR6/GTV2000/TD in the recent past life.

So a few extra studs is advisable to purchase during ordering time, along with a lot of Liquid Wrench and spare propane canister!!! Just came from your site where I noted the "kit" was approx $2800. is this everything I need? As I mentioned, mine is stock with the driver's side exhaust.

will the new step-up be MUCH louder? does splitting it into dual exhaust out both sides make it quieter, or louder? larger pipe/tip louder?

Anyway, I'll do the detector thing this week to see what I get for readings...

Gino

Steven-
ran the 930 last nite on the highway with the heat blasting inside, nailing the pedal through 3 gears (100+), cruising in 4th, etc with no exhaust smell and

NO READING ON THE 'CO' METER....Zero, 0.

did this for 1/2 hour, and nothing. I guess I don't have a leak. there still was a faint fuel smell, but I guess it's not heat exchanger related and maybe just enriched level at boost (which it should be) or leaky fuel line under high pressure or something else.

any other suggested places to check?

PorschePhD

Couild be many things. I would start to look around the engine for any leakage. The fuel head would be the first place to start. Sometimes they will leak at the top where the lines are and or the fuel head its self. A little leak makes a big smell