Car Jacking (jacking up that is)
#1
Car Jacking (jacking up that is)
Good morning! Signing in from rainy Pearland,Tx. Nothing better to do but work on the money pit..ah, I mean '88 911 turbo in the garage.
But seriously, I'm beginning a pedal cluster rebuild with bronze bushings and am ready to remove the cluster bracket from the car. This means jacking the front end up to get to the two nuts underneath. Unfortunately, I've never jacked the car up before and am unsure of where I should place floor jack and then the jack stands to support the front end.
I don't have the jack pads you can place into the jack wells located at the rocker panels.
If anyone could give me some advise, it would be greatly appreciated.
But seriously, I'm beginning a pedal cluster rebuild with bronze bushings and am ready to remove the cluster bracket from the car. This means jacking the front end up to get to the two nuts underneath. Unfortunately, I've never jacked the car up before and am unsure of where I should place floor jack and then the jack stands to support the front end.
I don't have the jack pads you can place into the jack wells located at the rocker panels.
If anyone could give me some advise, it would be greatly appreciated.
#2
usafa,
I would consider getting a jacking plate that goes into the car jack hole. With a floor jack, you can raise one side at a time (I do it in increments, side to side)and place the jackstands in the rear under the rear torsion bar tube (on the wheel well side). I place the front jackstands right at the intersection of the control arms and crossmember.
You might want to place a rag on the top of the jackstand to protect the car.
I'll sometimes place a couple more jackstands for safety and even leave the jack under slight tension for extra prtection underneath the car to hold it up in just in case...
Here's a picture of my car while I pulled the motor to replace the clutch. In order for the engine to clear the rear bumper, I built a couple of wooden platforms to raise the jackstands even more. That's why I added the second pair.
I would consider getting a jacking plate that goes into the car jack hole. With a floor jack, you can raise one side at a time (I do it in increments, side to side)and place the jackstands in the rear under the rear torsion bar tube (on the wheel well side). I place the front jackstands right at the intersection of the control arms and crossmember.
You might want to place a rag on the top of the jackstand to protect the car.
I'll sometimes place a couple more jackstands for safety and even leave the jack under slight tension for extra prtection underneath the car to hold it up in just in case...
Here's a picture of my car while I pulled the motor to replace the clutch. In order for the engine to clear the rear bumper, I built a couple of wooden platforms to raise the jackstands even more. That's why I added the second pair.
#3
Jim,
I appreciate the info and picture. That really helps me visualize the process. I think I will look into purchasing a jack pad.
By the way, I saw a tech article on pelicanparts regarding jacking the rear end up with the floor jack situated on the engine sump plate. What are your views about doing that?
Also, I found that I could remove the steering rack cover and reach the two nuts I needed to remove from the pedal cluster without raising the car. Unlike earlier models, the master brake cylinder isn't located at that location so I don't have to worry about seeing to that during reassembly.
Thanks Again
I appreciate the info and picture. That really helps me visualize the process. I think I will look into purchasing a jack pad.
By the way, I saw a tech article on pelicanparts regarding jacking the rear end up with the floor jack situated on the engine sump plate. What are your views about doing that?
Also, I found that I could remove the steering rack cover and reach the two nuts I needed to remove from the pedal cluster without raising the car. Unlike earlier models, the master brake cylinder isn't located at that location so I don't have to worry about seeing to that during reassembly.
Thanks Again
#4
I do it that way also even though the factory says not to and a lot more people do also. See the thread below on the subject. <a href="http://www.911turbo.com/turboclub/board/board.php" target="_blank">http://www.911turbo.com/turboclub/board/board.php</a>
Jim
Jim
#5
Jim,
Great thread on 911turbo.com. Thanks for the link. It sounds like lifting by the engine is probably fine as long as you're carefull with jack placement, protecting the engine case with wood, ect. I'm guessing my biggest problem would be releasing the jack to let the car down after the work is completed. The floor jacks always seem to release faster than anticipated allowing the car to drop a little too fast for comfort.
Thanks again for the information.
Brad Boothby
'88 911 Turbo
Great thread on 911turbo.com. Thanks for the link. It sounds like lifting by the engine is probably fine as long as you're carefull with jack placement, protecting the engine case with wood, ect. I'm guessing my biggest problem would be releasing the jack to let the car down after the work is completed. The floor jacks always seem to release faster than anticipated allowing the car to drop a little too fast for comfort.
Thanks again for the information.
Brad Boothby
'88 911 Turbo