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My clutch wont hold after bolt ons. What do i buy?

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Old 02-11-2011 | 06:10 PM
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Default My clutch wont hold after bolt ons. What do i buy?

Just posted recent thread about me installing ghls. Wg dump. Zork tube. intake. 3 % co. 25 degrees timing. And IC. On my 87 930 with 4 speed and clutch won't hold 3rd and 4th. Very angry to find that out today. How hard is it to replace the clutch? (Engine and trans have to come out or just trans) also what clutch should I look to buy?
Old 02-11-2011 | 08:45 PM
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I did some research and I see that I need to look into cable adjustment? As for clutches I want to go with a light flywheel and PP. Looks like Kennedy clutch parts are good. Also seems as if engine and trans. Need to come out. To replace clutch. Does all this sound right?
Old 02-12-2011 | 03:50 AM
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You can do a clutch replacement with just the tranny hanging down and the engine loosened enough to allow it. If that's all you need it might be worth it but if you have other issues then a full drop would make a lot more sense.
Old 02-12-2011 | 09:45 AM
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im thinking possibly valve cover gaskets and plugs but thats all.
Old 02-18-2011 | 03:07 PM
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Whens the engine drop ??....What do you mean it won't hold in 3rd and 4th...is the clutch slipping...or is it popping out of gear when you are in 3rd...

Do you feel the slippage when reving the car...typically from my experience is that If you see a large jump in the RPMs but do not feel a lot of acceleration, your clutch might be going bad. but I would assume you would see this in lower gears as you rev more in the lower gears.. Especially with a 4 speed like myself...I rarely see third gear other than cruising long distance on the highway...

If it is poping out of gear I would check the coupler bushings in the smugglers box and look at the shifterbushings in the housing...also ensure the shift housing is tightly bolted. also like you said the shift cable...Your clutch arm helper spring, cable, snap retainer clip and clutch clevis fork could be going bad. I would try replaing those first before you try getting a new clutch..




Hmmmm
Old 02-18-2011 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 911rudy
You can do a clutch replacement with just the tranny hanging down and the engine loosened enough to allow it. If that's all you need it might be worth it but if you have other issues then a full drop would make a lot more sense.
on an 87? how are you clearing the shift rod that protrudes out the nose of the tranny? It slides into the body a few inches, and there is no room to drop it straight down, instead the motor/tranny needs to come down as a unit, and then be slide back about 4 inches to clear the body before you can finish the drop.

Later cars this is possible and definitely the way to do it, but out of the 100 911/930 motor/trannys or so that I have dropped in my day, I don't see how this would be possible without dropping the motor. What is the secret am I not aware of? Any pictures?
Old 03-04-2011 | 10:40 AM
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Default have you checked the adjustment?

are sure it doesnt just need to be adjusted? takes about 5 minutes with two 13 mm wrenches. yes the Kennedy is really good I'm on about my 4th one lol and it's the best one. First wasstock didnt last long and just wasnt strong enough. Spec semi metalic vibrated a lot and died pretty quick due to all the bumper to bumper traffic i drive in. Third was an imagine auto, loved it lasted a log time still pretty heavy though and they are now gone, Now i have the KEP and it's smoother holds great wear is slow, and much lighter so engine revs quicker. And yes you should drop the engine and tranny, it's not very hard to do and seems to be quicker than doing a partial drop of just the engine. Also while it's out is a good time to fix any oil leaks and clean things up adjust valves etc.



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