Think i found my battery drain but not sure where to go from here
#2
Did a lot of searching in the 911 forum. So I'm working with door switches Door switch relay and power window relay. One more bit of info. Is that the interior lights won't come on with door open or closed. So far I am thinking of a door switch problem not ever grounding which would make lights inoperative and not sending the signal to the relay to shut off. What do you all think? How do I test/remove the door switches? Where are the power window and door switch relays?
#3
Ok so the answer for the battery drain, no interior lights, and operation of Windows and sunroof all the time was both door switches being dirty and not making good contact. I'm sure this will help others in the future.
#4
The switches are not your problem. You have to find out why they are getting power when the car is off. When the car is turned off the switches loose power. If they are getting power when the car is off it has to be something else. The relays are where the fuse box is. I would first take a test light go to the window fuse and see if it is getting power when the car is off. If it is it could be the ignition switch not turning off the accesory wire at the key cylinder. If someone could tell you whatcolor acc power is, you can see it right under the dash and put a test light or multi meter on it to see if it is turning off with the key. The other thing would be the relay sticking and staying on. As far as dome light. The pin swithes are probably your problem.
#5
At one point years ago I mapped out each fused circuit as to it's current draw with the key off (damned if I can find the posting, though). I was chasing about a 300 milliamp phantom draw and simply put an ammeter in-line with the battery to measure each fused circuit (engine bay as well as up front fuse boxes). I just kept pulling fuses until the draw droped to zero (ignoring the radio and clock current draw). Eventually it pointed to the circuit controled by one of the two fuses in the engine bay. Using that approach at least narrows down the possibilities. Discovering what those two fuses control is another issue since there isn't a cute little chart as you would find under the lid to the front fuse compartment.
#6
Jbrown no I meant that it was dirty switches. Everything is fixed now. I talked to a buddy of mine at the ferrari dealer. They do all European work he said those wires running to the switches are always hot. What happens is the relays get a signal from when 1 of the switches are grounded meaning door open and that's what shuts down the relays. Battery draw is now 20 ma. Awesome huh.
#7
wow. I didn't know that they started doing that so early (80's). I thought the older cars lost power to the windows with ignition turned off. You learn something new everyday. My car is an 83. Mine drops power to the switches with the igniton switch. Mine is also a 83sc cab. maybe that makes a difference.
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#11
What you all are saying is directly opposite of what I've just said. Apparently the relay coil is energized as soon as you start the car with the doors closed, and there is a timed circuit (1 minute??) after shutting the car off that if it doesn't see the ground return (as when opening the door) because of a dirty switch, then the relay stays hot. What a stupid setup, in my mind.
Anyway, the moral: When shutting her down for the day and exiting the cabin, take time to notice that the dome light comes on when opening the door. That should assure than when you close the door, the relay will de-energize and you won't drain the battery.
Did I capture this correctly?