Computer Nerd Attempts to Fix Oil Leaks in 930
01-30-2011, 06:38 PM
#31
Brian,
Congrats; though the path may have been long and painful, you got there. Those of use who have done this sort of stuff before may say "it's easy." Really, it's almost never easy, unless you're looking back on it. At the time, it might be scary and it seems to take forever. If you're like the rest of this, you'll find it's sort of like a reverse fish story for you too -- tasks accomplished in the past will get shorter and easier over time. It's sort of a natural healing process, I think, to numb the pain.
Despite the hassle, you successfully avoided the worst possible scenario -- a broken exhaust stud. That can cause real problems. So it was well worth the time you spent to do the reseach, get the right tools, and take it slowly.
Now that those awful ovens are off your engine, you can rest comfortably knowing that the oil leaks you're fixing will likely last longer, and you're not cooking the underside of your engine. Whatever headers/replacement pipes/heat exchangers you put on now will be much easier to install and remove.
Rob
Congrats; though the path may have been long and painful, you got there. Those of use who have done this sort of stuff before may say "it's easy." Really, it's almost never easy, unless you're looking back on it. At the time, it might be scary and it seems to take forever. If you're like the rest of this, you'll find it's sort of like a reverse fish story for you too -- tasks accomplished in the past will get shorter and easier over time. It's sort of a natural healing process, I think, to numb the pain.
Despite the hassle, you successfully avoided the worst possible scenario -- a broken exhaust stud. That can cause real problems. So it was well worth the time you spent to do the reseach, get the right tools, and take it slowly.
Now that those awful ovens are off your engine, you can rest comfortably knowing that the oil leaks you're fixing will likely last longer, and you're not cooking the underside of your engine. Whatever headers/replacement pipes/heat exchangers you put on now will be much easier to install and remove.
Rob
01-30-2011, 10:35 PM
#32
Thanks Rob....appreciate the encouragement. Would be much easier the second time around but it did require patience first time through. If I had any prior mechanical background likely it would have been easier as well.
Today's progress: (no pics I have used up my quota; posted on Pelican if you care to see them)
Wish I had more time each day to work on the car but just can't seem to get enough time. Anyhow, today I cleaned the right heat exchanger and I'm happy with the result. Not perfect but not really a part I was looking to get perfect.
Removed the second return tube from the left side as well and removed the valve cover on the left side just to see how easy/hard it would be. Actually very easy with a 13mm socket with only 2 nuts requiring an adjustable socket to fit. I reattached the cover loosely to keep contaminants out until I repair one night this week. Did some basic cleaning on the underside but need to do quite a bit more. Also planning to clean both valve covers.
Couple of observations:
1. 2 of the valve cover nuts were very loose. Still required a socket but it didn't take much to fully loosen them. The 101 projects book discusses this as a possible cause of the leaks and maybe thats all it was. But, the leak appears to be away from these nuts so not sure in this case. I have the valve cover gasket replacement kit from Pelican so obviously I'm replacing the gaskets.
2. The circlips on a few of the return tubes were not properly in place. There is a groove and two were not in that groove. They didnt seem to allow the tubes to telescope the wrong way but there is a groove clearly for the circlip. Not sure if they were installed wrong but it appears to me that they are not technically installed correct. I had them replaced many years ago so they were not the original non telescoping tubes.
3. I have a set of the pliers that allow you to manipulate the circlips but mine have the straight tips. Because I am coming at the circlips from underneath it would be better to have the pliers with the metal tips that turn 90 degrees. Not a big deal.
Today's progress: (no pics I have used up my quota; posted on Pelican if you care to see them)
Wish I had more time each day to work on the car but just can't seem to get enough time. Anyhow, today I cleaned the right heat exchanger and I'm happy with the result. Not perfect but not really a part I was looking to get perfect.
Removed the second return tube from the left side as well and removed the valve cover on the left side just to see how easy/hard it would be. Actually very easy with a 13mm socket with only 2 nuts requiring an adjustable socket to fit. I reattached the cover loosely to keep contaminants out until I repair one night this week. Did some basic cleaning on the underside but need to do quite a bit more. Also planning to clean both valve covers.
Couple of observations:
1. 2 of the valve cover nuts were very loose. Still required a socket but it didn't take much to fully loosen them. The 101 projects book discusses this as a possible cause of the leaks and maybe thats all it was. But, the leak appears to be away from these nuts so not sure in this case. I have the valve cover gasket replacement kit from Pelican so obviously I'm replacing the gaskets.
2. The circlips on a few of the return tubes were not properly in place. There is a groove and two were not in that groove. They didnt seem to allow the tubes to telescope the wrong way but there is a groove clearly for the circlip. Not sure if they were installed wrong but it appears to me that they are not technically installed correct. I had them replaced many years ago so they were not the original non telescoping tubes.
3. I have a set of the pliers that allow you to manipulate the circlips but mine have the straight tips. Because I am coming at the circlips from underneath it would be better to have the pliers with the metal tips that turn 90 degrees. Not a big deal.
02-01-2011, 02:16 PM
#33
Yesterday ordered some copper nuts to use on the W pipes during reinstall. Also had to order a couple of gaskets to connect the heat exchangers to the crossover pipe.
Stayed up until 11:45 last night working on the car after leaving work at 4 to start early Did break for dinner and help kids with homework. Asked my daughter to tell the teacher to cut back on homework a bit till I can get the car done.
Managed to make some progress by cleaning the left heat exchanger which was extremely dirty. The major oil leak was from that side of the car so there was a lot of burned oil on the top of it. Also cleaned both valve covers and reinstalled with fresh gaskets and shiny new nuts. I have not yet tightened them fully as I believe they need to be torqued and I don't have a small torque wrench yet. I now have a tub of seriously nasty chemicalized water mixed with grime and oil I need to dispose of.
As a side note I didn't remember to order the silicone gaskets for the valve covers so I just ordered the kit from Pelican. Based on the removal it looks like I had the silicone gaskets on the car from the last valve adjustment a number of years ago. Will be interesting to see if there is a difference in longevity. Since I'm removing the TRs it may not be a fair comparison as the higher temps may have been aiding in quicker leaks. We will see...I have all work documented over the years so I do have good data to compare against.
Removed the 2 right oil return tubes and prepped a new one for install. Also used a borrowed torque wrench for the first time and torqued the oil drain plugs to 31 ft/lb. This wrench doesn't allow for the 5.9 ft/lbs I need for the valve covers.
Now just waiting on the copper nuts for the replacement W pipes and some Dow Corning 111 silicone lubricant (recommended by another pelicanite) to help with the return tube install. Also have a tube of Sil Glyde on the way per my neighbors NAPA shop. I'm going to use the Corning on one side and Sil Glyde on the other just to see if there is any noticeable difference. The Corning stuff appears to have greater heat tolerances. Should have it all by tomorrow or TH and I am hopeful to have the car finished by the time the Super Bowl is over.
I know this is more of a play by play than most of these threads but I'm looking forward to reviewing this thread later and probably get a laugh out of how long it took to get this small project done.
Stayed up until 11:45 last night working on the car after leaving work at 4 to start early Did break for dinner and help kids with homework. Asked my daughter to tell the teacher to cut back on homework a bit till I can get the car done.
Managed to make some progress by cleaning the left heat exchanger which was extremely dirty. The major oil leak was from that side of the car so there was a lot of burned oil on the top of it. Also cleaned both valve covers and reinstalled with fresh gaskets and shiny new nuts. I have not yet tightened them fully as I believe they need to be torqued and I don't have a small torque wrench yet. I now have a tub of seriously nasty chemicalized water mixed with grime and oil I need to dispose of.
As a side note I didn't remember to order the silicone gaskets for the valve covers so I just ordered the kit from Pelican. Based on the removal it looks like I had the silicone gaskets on the car from the last valve adjustment a number of years ago. Will be interesting to see if there is a difference in longevity. Since I'm removing the TRs it may not be a fair comparison as the higher temps may have been aiding in quicker leaks. We will see...I have all work documented over the years so I do have good data to compare against.
Removed the 2 right oil return tubes and prepped a new one for install. Also used a borrowed torque wrench for the first time and torqued the oil drain plugs to 31 ft/lb. This wrench doesn't allow for the 5.9 ft/lbs I need for the valve covers.
Now just waiting on the copper nuts for the replacement W pipes and some Dow Corning 111 silicone lubricant (recommended by another pelicanite) to help with the return tube install. Also have a tube of Sil Glyde on the way per my neighbors NAPA shop. I'm going to use the Corning on one side and Sil Glyde on the other just to see if there is any noticeable difference. The Corning stuff appears to have greater heat tolerances. Should have it all by tomorrow or TH and I am hopeful to have the car finished by the time the Super Bowl is over.
I know this is more of a play by play than most of these threads but I'm looking forward to reviewing this thread later and probably get a laugh out of how long it took to get this small project done.
02-07-2011, 12:40 PM
#34
Thursday and Friday nights last week were spent installing the oil return tubes. Used Sil Glyde from NAPA per a tech article I found to help with lubricating the o rings on the return tubes. Made install pretty easy. First one was tough but found a technique for the rest and they went pretty quick. 10 min per tube not including putting them together.
Spent sat and sun cleaning the engine area and attempting install of the w pipe replacements for the TRs. Unfortunately the w pipes are not fitting well and are off by about 1/16 to 1/8th in terms of fitting over the exhaust studs. Each stud measures about 2 5/8. From end to end is 9 1/4. Its the end to end that is the issue. I can fit the right side fine or the left side but cannot get everything to line up.
Found out about a tool that might help and/or will need to get the install holes ovaled out a bit. The holes on the TRs are oval and have more room for play. Pics on Pelican as I've reached my quota here.
Spent sat and sun cleaning the engine area and attempting install of the w pipe replacements for the TRs. Unfortunately the w pipes are not fitting well and are off by about 1/16 to 1/8th in terms of fitting over the exhaust studs. Each stud measures about 2 5/8. From end to end is 9 1/4. Its the end to end that is the issue. I can fit the right side fine or the left side but cannot get everything to line up.
Found out about a tool that might help and/or will need to get the install holes ovaled out a bit. The holes on the TRs are oval and have more room for play. Pics on Pelican as I've reached my quota here.
