I don't remember seeing these on my '79, is this the remains of an aftermarket electronic boost controller or factory solenoids?

Car is an '86 US model 930

 

you can see the wires are broke off as well

 

another angle

 

Those 2 vacuum solenoids are origonal to '86 on usa 911 turbos with CIS injection.

The left one operates the air pump diverter valves.

The right one is part of the cold start high idle circuit. It along with the aux air sldie valve raise the idle speed after a cold start for almost a minute. It is in the middle of the vacuum retard line and closes off blocks vacuum retard from reaching the distributor for almost a minute after a cold start.
Blocking off vacuum retard the timing advances a few degress and the idle speed raises as a result.
When the K jetronic ECU under the driver seat opens that vacuum solenoid then vacuum retard functions again, timing retards, and idle speed abruptly drops around 400 rpm.

 

OK, so i should fix the broken wire on the left solenoid and make sure the hoses are in good shape and secure. Thanks

 

Or take it out of the loop altogether. I've been running without forever (actually found the solenoid rattling around in my parts box recently, tried to get it to work, but to no avail). The auxillary air regulator seems to be enough to raise my idle when cold, without the added benefit of delaying the ignition retard for a minute or so.
Just one more thing to go wrong that you won't have to worry about.

 

So just unplug the wires and join the vacuum hoses to eliminate the solenoid.?

BTW, love the color of your car, when i first saw your reply i thought to myself "i don't remember typing that"

 

I'd remove all the air pump stuff unless you like the EPA and emission controls.

We don't have any emission checks or tests here in Florida anymore and that stuff is just extra weight and clutter where you don't want it, so you don't need it.
I removed it all from mine and stored it in a box in case I ever need to put it back on somewhere someday.

The motor is happier and looks better with it removed and you won't have to remove it and reinstall it all when doing valve adjustments.

I'd leave the cold start high idle solenoid in the vacuum retard line if it's working. It's a cold start luxury item and you don't need it either if you want to remove it though.

 

COOL, I am all about getting rid of clutter under the hood. I need to find some info on what can go and what it looks like.

 

ok, i pulled the intercooler and air box off this evening. The intercooler was dry, no oil residue to speak of. I removed both of those solenoids and ran new vacuum hoses from the distributor to their reference points. It seemed to idle better but after a short drive it was back to high idle and the other annoying thing it's doing right now which is holding the revs up on the shifts (when i shift over 4000rpm), if i shift under 3000-3500rpm the revs drop during the shift... looks like the next culprit is the WUR, but interestingly enough i can't find one pic of what that thing looks like and where it is!!

 

Here's what the WUR looks like. It's to the right of the intercooler, looking from the back of the car.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...606-105-01-OEM

I don't think the WUR will cause your high idle though. That sounds like maybe a vacuum leak or that your decel valve needs to be deactivated. Try spraying starter fluid around various couplings while the motor is running to see if your idle is affected; if it is you have found a vacuum leak. Do a search on decel valve, there are threads on how to deactivate it. The decel valve is the round gold flying-saucer-looking thing that is under your intercooler connected to the intake manifold.

 

If you're experiencing a generally high idle that doesn't seem to ever go down at idle, then also suspect the Auxillary Air Regulator (sometimes also mistakenly called the AA Valve). Pretty easy to trouble shoot that one. If you don't know where it's located, look for the fat hose (about 3/4 inch) coming off the right side of the intercooler and connecting to the AAR (which also has an electrical connection). Pinch that hose closed and if the idle drops, then the regulator is stuck open too far. Otherwise, I would agree with looking at the decel valve and/or other vacuumm leaks.

 

ok, got acouple things done today. First thing I did was pinch off the AAV hose, no real change in idle (it kind of dropped slightly then came back up, then again the idle isn't steady anyway). I read somewhere that i could unplug the o2 sensor and the car would still run, so i did that to screw in my LM1 wideband. As I drove around watching it I noticed the 3000-4000rpm stumble was GONE! Smooth as silk acceleration in every gear from 2000 to redline. I guess my o2 sensor is bad! Now the car idles nice and steady but still at 1200rpm. Maybe somebody at some point cranked the idle screw up to try and stabilize the idle. Where is the idle screw? I put a good o2 sensor in today and now want to see if i can drop the idle.

Thanks for all the responses, so far i've had a warm welcome and hope to make my contributions to this site as I work on my car and learn..

 

You've got a lot of odds and ends to sort out. Welcome to the learning phase. Many of us simply do away with the O2 sensor altogether, unless you're locked into emmisions testing in your state. If not, leave the damn thing disconnected and tune your motor to run without it. Makes life easier in the long run. All that emmissions crap is just....crap. Taking up space, adding weight, and adding many components prone to fail eventually and cause you to chase your tail.
The idle adjusting screw is in a really nice easy to reach location. All you need is about a 15 inch long straigh blade screwdriver, contort your left arm back behind the left side of the intercooler to reach back to the intake throttle valve...a little right of dead center of the engine. With a strong flashlight you can just barely see the screw (it's spring loaded). It's a b - - -ch to get to, actually. Screw it in and it will drop the rpm. Do a search here and eventually you'll find a picture of it's location.

 

so i can just leave the o2 sensor unplugged? cool. Now whats this Decel valve? I saw it under the intercooler.. Do i just unplug the vacuum hose or do i remove the actual valve and plug the hole it came from (if there is a hole). Or does it pull on a linkage?

I want to try and do one thing at a time so if i screw something up i only have to back up one step.