Oil type?
#1
Burning Brakes
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ok just finished changing the oil, I always use mobile1 extended performance. 15w50. It was very hard to find getting harder all the time since it is no longer made. the epa limits have caused most oil producers to lower the amount of Zinc/Phospherous. There was a link here a while back that discussed this. However I went to the mobile oil website and they have two new racing oils that have twice the amounts of Z/P in them but the weight is 0w20 and 0w30. they recomend replacing 15w 50 with these oils saying there will be less wear but more horsepower due to the light oil weight. Any one here who is an engine builder or runs race cars care to weigh in here? I have been thinking of switchin over when i cant get the ep15w50 anymore.
#2
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I don't build engines, nor do I race cars, but this topic has been covered pretty extensively over on the Pelican board. You can go do a search under "Ultimate Motor Oil Thread" or something like that. There's also a chemical engineer who puts out a website which discusses this issue:
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
Personally, I'm running the older formulation Rotella T that's for diesel engines. I can find it in my local auto parts stores. But if that stuff goes the way of the dodo, then I'll probably switch over to Brad Penn.
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
Personally, I'm running the older formulation Rotella T that's for diesel engines. I can find it in my local auto parts stores. But if that stuff goes the way of the dodo, then I'll probably switch over to Brad Penn.
#3
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I have a 76 targa with a freshly built 1967 cast 2.7 block and my wrenchman would only put in Rotella T or Brad Penn, I went with the Retella due to availability. My 88 turbo was been running on Mobile One 15w-50 for a few years, but he told me the next service he's not going to let me run it anymore. I may use Penn in that car, but I know Ratella will be uhis choice to use. Its the factory fill for some reason.
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wish there was an additive, we could just pour in the new oils have too low z/p for flat tappet engines and the racing oils dont have the detergents for daily driving.
#5
Three Wheelin'
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Yep, everytime the govt gets its hand into something (oil formulations, fuel additives, motor emissions), it seems unknown issues begin to show there ugly head. come to think of it, i wish we could have 101 octane at the local BP too !
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Hi Ken
Try the Mobil One 20w-50 for motorcycle engines. It has lots of ZDDP and is considered better than the epa controlled 15w-50.
Walmart usually has it for around 8.50/quart and some auto parts stores sell it. It's not easy to find.
Try the Mobil One 20w-50 for motorcycle engines. It has lots of ZDDP and is considered better than the epa controlled 15w-50.
Walmart usually has it for around 8.50/quart and some auto parts stores sell it. It's not easy to find.
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I just love reading oil-related posts! Ken, if you aren't seriously hooked on synthetic oil then perhaps you should consider Valvoline VR1 Racing (you can get that in either dinosaur or synthetic). I just changed my oil last weekend and decided to switch to the VR1 dino juice, vs. the Castrol that I have been running. A lot more ZDDP in the Vavloline. Here's a cut from their web page:
Which oil has more zinc/ZDDP: VR1 or "Not Street Legal" oil?
"Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13% of Zinc and .12% of Phosphorus compared to the Valvoline "Not Street Legal" Racing Oil which contains .14% of Zinc and .13% of Phosphorus".
Got this oil at the local auto parts store for something like $3.75 a quart.
Which oil has more zinc/ZDDP: VR1 or "Not Street Legal" oil?
"Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13% of Zinc and .12% of Phosphorus compared to the Valvoline "Not Street Legal" Racing Oil which contains .14% of Zinc and .13% of Phosphorus".
Got this oil at the local auto parts store for something like $3.75 a quart.
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I need to change my oil and think I'll look into the Valvoline.
I just love reading oil-related posts! Ken, if you aren't seriously hooked on synthetic oil then perhaps you should consider Valvoline VR1 Racing (you can get that in either dinosaur or synthetic). I just changed my oil last weekend and decided to switch to the VR1 dino juice, vs. the Castrol that I have been running. A lot more ZDDP in the Vavloline. Here's a cut from their web page:
Which oil has more zinc/ZDDP: VR1 or "Not Street Legal" oil?
"Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13% of Zinc and .12% of Phosphorus compared to the Valvoline "Not Street Legal" Racing Oil which contains .14% of Zinc and .13% of Phosphorus".
Got this oil at the local auto parts store for something like $3.75 a quart.
Which oil has more zinc/ZDDP: VR1 or "Not Street Legal" oil?
"Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13% of Zinc and .12% of Phosphorus compared to the Valvoline "Not Street Legal" Racing Oil which contains .14% of Zinc and .13% of Phosphorus".
Got this oil at the local auto parts store for something like $3.75 a quart.
#12
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According to the Pelican posts, the GM additive is called EOS. It's no longer made, so you are unlikely to be able to just stop by your local GM parts counter to pick up a bottle or case. You can search on ebay and pay a premium for that stuff.
The STP stuff also works, but you have to purchase the blue bottle, IIRC. (Or was it the red.) Either way, my local auto parts stores didn't stock the proper product (though they had plenty of the wrong colored STP stuff, last time I checked). Wasn't worth the effort for me to ask them to special order it. I just purchased the old-style Rotella T (for about $11 per gallon jug), instead. New-style Rotella T does not have adequate Zn/Phos levels.
Finally, make sure you don't get the non-street legal Valvoline. Unless you like changing oil frequently. Apparently it lacks the proper preservatives/detergents (?), so it doesn't last very long. OK for use in a race engine which sees an oil change every race weekend or two, but probably a big PITA for a street car.
The STP stuff also works, but you have to purchase the blue bottle, IIRC. (Or was it the red.) Either way, my local auto parts stores didn't stock the proper product (though they had plenty of the wrong colored STP stuff, last time I checked). Wasn't worth the effort for me to ask them to special order it. I just purchased the old-style Rotella T (for about $11 per gallon jug), instead. New-style Rotella T does not have adequate Zn/Phos levels.
Finally, make sure you don't get the non-street legal Valvoline. Unless you like changing oil frequently. Apparently it lacks the proper preservatives/detergents (?), so it doesn't last very long. OK for use in a race engine which sees an oil change every race weekend or two, but probably a big PITA for a street car.
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yeah the problem seems to be that the racing oils have the correct amount of zddp but lack the detergents needed for street driving. It's about 20 dollars a quart and designed to be chenged after every race. So you cant drive around with it for several months like street legal oil.