Hello everyone the tech asst reports the turbo was not working (froze) and is now working also the #6 cylinder is 20% value regarding comp test (a valve is damaged) . As you can tell the asst tech is not very clear and hopefully the actual tech has more detail to explain the story on Monday.IF any one has thoughts regarding this prelim data and questions i may ask of the tech I am interested. Thanks again for everyones help.

 

Huh? Turbo froze but is now spinning (working?) again?

And that 20% value is the leakdown? (Leakdown should be in the single digit percentage points.) Or the compression? (Not sure if I've ever seen anyone publish an official turbo compression value, but it should be in the low 100's as a ballpark value.)

Is this the Venetian Blue car you posted about?

I'd be prepared to run away from this car, unless you're getting it for near free. As in $10K or less.

 

Yes this is the venetian blue car from pacific palisades L A area.How could all other leak down numbers on cylinders1-5 be in the 3% range and the #6 be in the 20% range because of a bad valve.? From my understanding the blow by is not because of bad seals or poor seating on the head but internal,so why wouldnt other valves be damaged?My agreement is to buy this car for 30k ,however, my plan is to try and get a cost estimate of fixing the damaged valve and estimate the cost of replacing the turbo and subtract the appropriate amont from my offer.Any ideas on what that price is?If the turbo was froze but is now working how can I assess this type of damage?After studying these cars and thier mods and just labor costs in general I may offer20k and have to walk from this deal.NOTE ck out my oter post concering a1979 car another choice

 

You gotta pressurize the #6 cylinder at TDC with 100+psi air and listen through a hose held to your ear in the oil tank for piston ring blowby, the throttle body for intake valve leakage and the exhaust for exhaust valve leakage.
The last one is easier to hear with the turbo removed and listen in the passenger side header flange for leakage.
If the oil is drained, you can listen in the drain plug hole for blowby hiss.

If you were using a harbor freight leakdown gauge all cylinders in good condition will read around 20% because it is a POS and won't allow more than 12psi into the cylinder to seat the rings without pegging the leakdown gauge... long story.

 

This one?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94190

What's up with them?

 

Don't know the cost of the repairs. It'll depend on what the mechanic thinks is wrong. How much does he quote you for repairs? Then, you can take his list of potential repairs, and contact a couple other shops to see if that's an appropriate ballpark figure. Other LA shops with good reputations include Tony Callas (Torrance), Otto's (Venice), and TRE (Van Nuys).

 

Thats the one.

It's not bad for $30, but go to this link on pelican:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=420388
...and read posts #11 and #12.
You'll see other people's identical experince as mine with it, and one guy's soloution that as far as he say's, makes it work right.

It is solid and very nicely made for $30, but he says using it's built in regulator it only lets you pressurize the cylinder around 10-12psi according to the left hand gauge to zero the right hand leakdown gauge before connecting it to the hose already screwed into the spark plug hole.

Same experince I had.

That low a pressure doesn't seat the compression rings on the piston and more air leaks past the rings than if the cylinder is being pressurized to 100psi for an accurate leakdown test.

2 other people had the exact same experience as me.
I havn't looked for a 100psi gauge to replace the one on the unit but if I want the thing to work right I will have to.

I was told my valve guides may be shot or the rings were worn out because I was between 20-23% leakdown on all 6 cylinders according to the harbor freight unit.
I had a hard time swallowing that because the top end of my engine was rebuilt with new exhaust valves, new guides, and piston rings, and raceware rod bolts only 20,000 miles ago.
Receipts came with my car showing that work had been done.

Also, all the leakdown readings were consistant and when listening through a hose to my ear at the throttle body opened up, exhaust header turbo mounting flange, and the oil tank while the cylinder being tested was being pressurized to 120psi @TDC, I heard nothing but the tiniest little hiss, or none at all, and that was on a stone cold motor.

On top of this, the instructions that come with the harbor freight unit leave out one very important step.. they don't tell you that you zero the right hand leakdown gauge BEFORE connecting the unit to the cylinder to be tested, so if you follow the instructions that don't make sense, it won't work right at all...

You get what you pay for and once you figure everything out, and replace the right hand 12 psi gauge that tells you how much pressure is leaking with a 100psi one, apparently it is an OK unit.

The left hand gauge is fine and it tells you how much air pressure in psi you are setting the unit to with the built in regulator to zero the right hand leakage gauge before connecting the quick connect hose to the other hose already screwed into the spark plug hole of the cylinder at TDC being tested.

So finding the post where 2 other people had the exact same experience, made me feel alot better.

This is a long description, but it's the only way I can truely explain it.

 

Thanks for the explanation, makes perfect sense. I'm going to PM you so I don't hijack this thread.
Sorry for the hijack so far...