jly535

I just started 930 for the first time today, lots of white smoke, I am guessing turbo oil seals are bad, it eventually cleared up. Idle was very high at 3000rpm, dropped to 1500 after fifteen minutes, still a little too high. So I let car cool down for half a day then unplugged electrical connection to WUR and car started and ran good, but still with an idle at 1500, so I definately think I need to clean the WUR. My question is, what should I look out for when disassembling WUR, anything special going on in there? Will there be built up fuel pressure in there when I take it apart? Are they rebuildable or should I just go for a new one, or the adjustable one I have read posts on?

pete77930

My car used to do that. it sounds more like your aux air valve is bad. take it off and do the freezer test with it.

JBH

Could be the AAV - sometime a few taps with a hammer will free a sticking valve. Mine failed and nothing helped except replacement.

jly535

Thanx

pete77930

the aav is located under the wur on the right side of the throttle body, it'll have a hose running into the intercooler/ or in your case, the intake pipe.

JFairman

When you take the air hose from the side of the intercooler off it you can see the auxillary air slide valve in there that lets air bypass the throttle body to raise the idle when cold.
I've sprayed a little WD40 or CRC similar stuff with the straw in there onto it hoping to lubricate it.
Don't know if it helps but it works fine on mine and can't hurt it.

On a cold start my '87 starts right up and idles smoothly around 1500rpm for about a minute or 2 than drops down to 1000rpm for another minute or 2 then drops down to 800-850rpm where I have it set for hot idle.

I can't complain, it works really well, and the warmup regulator is only a couple years old and also works perfectly.

I have the O2 sensor disconnected because it runs smoother and stronger that way

Mark Houghton

If the AAV is stuck wide open, letting in that bypass air unrestricted and thus causing the high idle that won't go away, an easy test on cold startup (when you are experiencing 3000rpm idle) would be to pinch closed the hose leading to the AAV. A pair of needle nose pliers does the trick. Pinching it closes off the air that it's drawing through the valve, and your idle should instantly drop off. Just a dignostic tip.

JFairman

I've installed BMW 320i heater valves (that are origonally made to control the flow of water to the heater core in a 320i) into the cold start throttle body air bypass circut on some older L jetronic BMW's that take forever to come off high idle on their own.
Then hooked up an aftermarket manual choke cable to them that comes into the cockpit so I could manually bring down the high idle and set it where I want it till the motor warms up completely.

If you wanted to you could do the same thing on that 1" air hose that goes to the aux air valve.
I wouldn't do that on a 930 though... thats just too weird.

When i get my AC working on my porsche I'm going to install a BMW throttle body air bypass solenoid that raises idle 300-400 rpm to compensate for the drag from the AC compressor. They are really small and unobtrusive.
That way I can keep the 800-850 rpm idle speed with and without AC running.

jly535

that should solve the problem.