I contacted the 2nd owner of my 930 last night and got a lot of info on the car ....
09-19-2007, 08:58 AM
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I contacted the 2nd owner of my 930 last night and got a lot of info on the car ....
I am the 4th owner......
Warning: this could be a really boring story to read , but I am excited to have found out the history on my car
The guy was very nice and seemed excited to tell me about the car.
The first owner ordered the car in 82. The waiting period was months to get a ROW car back then and it looked like it may not even arrive. He then tried another importer and ordered once again. The first car finally came in, so he bought that one.
The second car came in and the guy declined the purchase forfieting his deposit, but the dealer threatened to sue him for breaking the contract, so he bought the second car as well. ( this guy had plenty of money ) Purchase price was $54,000. ( this is with no power steering or brakes, central locking )
The first car was federalized and driven, the second car was put into storage. The guy drove the first car until he hit a deer. He then parked it and pulled the second car out of storage and some how used the federalization paperwork for the first car to title the second car ... and he begin driving it. That explains why this car was never hacked up by DOT and EPA. Reportedly this second car ran MUCH better than the first.
This first owner was a bit strange too. He never washed the car and liked it dirty looking so that no one would mess with it.
He reportedly got upset one time when he took the car into service at Porsche and they washed the car for him. It was a daily driver, he kept it until 86 and then sold it for $25K
The Kph was then replaced by the second owner with a mph and the guy can't remember how many kph was logged ......seems odd ..... but that has been over 20 years ago.
I am figuring 3 years of driving? It could be 60,000 worst case?
Anyway, the second owner kept the car from 1985 until 2002. I have a boatload of receipts from him. This guy said the car had never been on a track, but he's had it up to 180 mph! Now I don't know whether to believe this or not, but he claimed he's been there a couple of times and that the car was amazingly strong ( which it is ) I think all he had was headers on it.
Somewhere along the way it broke a rocker arm and messed a cam up. The Web regrinds are the stock profile. They discovered some broken piston rings too. The rings were replaced .... he said there was no damage to the cylinders. New valve guides and seals and valve job. Other things, the synchros were replaced in the tranny and he had a new clutch put in.
When he sold the car in 2002, it showed 29K miles. The body and paint still looked almost new, except for a few minor dings and one ding on the quarter panel that started to rust. The interior still looks and smells new.
The only thing that bugged me is, he said the original owner drove the car everyday in all seasons. In the winter, he put snow tires on it ..... so it's been through the salt for 3 years. I can't see any indication of rust anywhere on the car, so apparently Porsche used some good metal back then.
The third owner paid $25K for the car, then disassembled the car and put all new rubber all the way around it, new paint, new bushings, new calipers, new front and rear wheel bearings, new flywheel, clutch, wider Fuchs front and rear, new tires, K27 turbo, B&B header, GHL muffler, front strut brace, bra, cover, had the AC fixed ..... other odds and ends. He said he was restoring it to please himself, but in the end decided to sell it and move on with other areas of his life. ( he still had 3 other Porsches ). So ...... I got it for $30K
In a way, I like the fact that it is a true unmolested Euro spec car! ..... I imagine that's a rare find these days.
It is now registered as a Historic vehicle and the tags are good for the life of the car.... plus it never has to go through a smog check either. 
...and here is the car as it is today.
Warning: this could be a really boring story to read , but I am excited to have found out the history on my car
The guy was very nice and seemed excited to tell me about the car.
The first owner ordered the car in 82. The waiting period was months to get a ROW car back then and it looked like it may not even arrive. He then tried another importer and ordered once again. The first car finally came in, so he bought that one.
The second car came in and the guy declined the purchase forfieting his deposit, but the dealer threatened to sue him for breaking the contract, so he bought the second car as well. ( this guy had plenty of money ) Purchase price was $54,000. ( this is with no power steering or brakes, central locking )
The first car was federalized and driven, the second car was put into storage. The guy drove the first car until he hit a deer. He then parked it and pulled the second car out of storage and some how used the federalization paperwork for the first car to title the second car ... and he begin driving it. That explains why this car was never hacked up by DOT and EPA. Reportedly this second car ran MUCH better than the first.
This first owner was a bit strange too. He never washed the car and liked it dirty looking so that no one would mess with it.
He reportedly got upset one time when he took the car into service at Porsche and they washed the car for him. It was a daily driver, he kept it until 86 and then sold it for $25KThe Kph was then replaced by the second owner with a mph and the guy can't remember how many kph was logged ......seems odd ..... but that has been over 20 years ago.
I am figuring 3 years of driving? It could be 60,000 worst case?
Anyway, the second owner kept the car from 1985 until 2002. I have a boatload of receipts from him. This guy said the car had never been on a track, but he's had it up to 180 mph! Now I don't know whether to believe this or not, but he claimed he's been there a couple of times and that the car was amazingly strong ( which it is ) I think all he had was headers on it.
Somewhere along the way it broke a rocker arm and messed a cam up. The Web regrinds are the stock profile. They discovered some broken piston rings too. The rings were replaced .... he said there was no damage to the cylinders. New valve guides and seals and valve job. Other things, the synchros were replaced in the tranny and he had a new clutch put in.
When he sold the car in 2002, it showed 29K miles. The body and paint still looked almost new, except for a few minor dings and one ding on the quarter panel that started to rust. The interior still looks and smells new.
The only thing that bugged me is, he said the original owner drove the car everyday in all seasons. In the winter, he put snow tires on it ..... so it's been through the salt for 3 years. I can't see any indication of rust anywhere on the car, so apparently Porsche used some good metal back then.
The third owner paid $25K for the car, then disassembled the car and put all new rubber all the way around it, new paint, new bushings, new calipers, new front and rear wheel bearings, new flywheel, clutch, wider Fuchs front and rear, new tires, K27 turbo, B&B header, GHL muffler, front strut brace, bra, cover, had the AC fixed ..... other odds and ends. He said he was restoring it to please himself, but in the end decided to sell it and move on with other areas of his life. ( he still had 3 other Porsches ). So ...... I got it for $30K
In a way, I like the fact that it is a true unmolested Euro spec car! ..... I imagine that's a rare find these days.
It is now registered as a Historic vehicle and the tags are good for the life of the car.... plus it never has to go through a smog check either. ...and here is the car as it is today.
09-19-2007, 11:12 AM
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Has the rust issue been addressed?
I found out a possible clue about your loose bolts...apparently a lot of mechanics rely on battery operated power tools which just don't produce enough torque to bolt things down right. Especially when the battery is tired.
I found out a possible clue about your loose bolts...apparently a lot of mechanics rely on battery operated power tools which just don't produce enough torque to bolt things down right. Especially when the battery is tired.
09-19-2007, 11:52 AM
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He said the guy hit something on the road and it hit the inner fenderwell putting a reverse ding in the fender ( cracking the paint ) That is where the rust started, but it really was just surface according to him.
yeah, I know it needs lowered.
yeah, I know it needs lowered.
09-19-2007, 03:41 PM
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Maxx, neat story. I'm the third owner on mine. Its likewise pretty much unmolested (No cats, air pump, euro fuel head, and exhaust. It will be perfect once you set it to "euro" height or a little lower ;-)
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09-20-2007, 08:27 AM
#8
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How hard is it to lower? I know the car will then need realigned. I'm concerned too about them attaching the alignment tools to the hubs, I don't want them to screw up the caps or rims. I'll have to look into it.
09-22-2007, 11:34 PM
#9
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Thats great you found the history on your car good luck with it hope to see you on a pcar run one of these days. I would love to get pics of the cars side by side as they are identical.
09-24-2007, 06:43 AM
#10
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This is kind of funny, but then again it's not ...... the speedometer only goes up to 165, so I wonder if he was talking KPH? .....I didn't even think of that until yesterday when I drove the car and looked at the speedo. He is the guy who finally swapped the KPH for a MPH in 86, so maybe the original KPH went up to 180 or 200 or whatever..... but I am sure he was talking mph ...... 180 kph isn't jack! I guess he could have more than pegged it and the estimated the 180 mph mark?
Oh well, maybe he was full of Bull, but at least he did give me some technical info that sounded legit.
Oh well, maybe he was full of Bull, but at least he did give me some technical info that sounded legit.
09-25-2007, 03:22 PM
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I would be really surprised if your car does 180, because the aerodynamics of old 930s suck. It is like .44 CD, which is basically a brick.
Take your car out in top gear and see how fast you accelerate at really high speeds and see if your car just keeps pulling and pulling or if you feel the wind pressure building fast.
The ruf yellowbird had a narrow body front and also a wind cheating bumper in order to go faster than 180.
I think that your car maybe could reach 180 in theory, but it would be tough in real life. The speedo is going to be really inaccurate at those speeds generally, and maybe 170 looked more like 180. Or better yet, the guy converted kilometers incorrectly to mph.
My car is geared to a limit of 156 mph, so I don't have to worry about such questions.
Take your car out in top gear and see how fast you accelerate at really high speeds and see if your car just keeps pulling and pulling or if you feel the wind pressure building fast.
The ruf yellowbird had a narrow body front and also a wind cheating bumper in order to go faster than 180.
I think that your car maybe could reach 180 in theory, but it would be tough in real life. The speedo is going to be really inaccurate at those speeds generally, and maybe 170 looked more like 180. Or better yet, the guy converted kilometers incorrectly to mph.
My car is geared to a limit of 156 mph, so I don't have to worry about such questions.
09-25-2007, 11:16 PM
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I would like to find a stretch of road to try it on, but seeing that I have a 1 bar spring in the waste gate, I am a little cautious about extended full throttle operation until I replace it with a .8 bar. Yeah, look at the pickup truck rake on the windshield and the fat rear flares ..... it's like a barn door.
The weird thing is, the guy was so detailed in his stories. He told me the bridge in PA where he did the runs because it was so smooth and safe.
I don't know .... I took a Kawasaki with an 85 mph speedo, wrapped the needle past 85 and straight down and estimated 115 mph from that .....
I think I read that top speed according to Porsche was like 158 mph ?
The weird thing is, the guy was so detailed in his stories. He told me the bridge in PA where he did the runs because it was so smooth and safe.
I don't know .... I took a Kawasaki with an 85 mph speedo, wrapped the needle past 85 and straight down and estimated 115 mph from that .....
I think I read that top speed according to Porsche was like 158 mph ?
09-26-2007, 02:44 PM
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About 158-162 mph....
You have more power, obviously, but 20 mph more power? Hard to say.
I think that you are fine with 1 bar if you do two things, first get a better intercooler. Virtually any intercooler on the market beats out your stock IC.
Second, check your AFRs, and if you are running moderately rich you will be okay to run 1 bar, IMO.
1 bar basically changes your compression by +3.9. If you are starting with 7 to 1 (just a guess, I don't know your car) than you are at 10.9 to 1 compression, which I don't believe is going to blow up an engine if you are not overheating and your MSD CD unit is working good....my 2 cents!
A lot of people run 1 bar. But that is your call, obviously, based on how much safety margin you want. I think your car would be at 10.6 to 1 compression with .8 bar, which is not a huge difference. Heat is the bigger factor in detonation, hence the IC upgrade....
You have more power, obviously, but 20 mph more power? Hard to say.
I think that you are fine with 1 bar if you do two things, first get a better intercooler. Virtually any intercooler on the market beats out your stock IC.
Second, check your AFRs, and if you are running moderately rich you will be okay to run 1 bar, IMO.
1 bar basically changes your compression by +3.9. If you are starting with 7 to 1 (just a guess, I don't know your car) than you are at 10.9 to 1 compression, which I don't believe is going to blow up an engine if you are not overheating and your MSD CD unit is working good....my 2 cents!
A lot of people run 1 bar. But that is your call, obviously, based on how much safety margin you want. I think your car would be at 10.6 to 1 compression with .8 bar, which is not a huge difference. Heat is the bigger factor in detonation, hence the IC upgrade....
09-26-2007, 11:12 PM
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I was concerned more with overboost considering I have the B&B headers on there.
I'll have to research and see who makes a decent intercooler ( hopefully a bolt on ) for the price. The engine has been running at around 105 degrees on the oil temp. The MSD is smooth as glass
How much do you figure a good aftermarket intercooler will set me back?
I'll have to research and see who makes a decent intercooler ( hopefully a bolt on ) for the price. The engine has been running at around 105 degrees on the oil temp. The MSD is smooth as glass
How much do you figure a good aftermarket intercooler will set me back?
09-26-2007, 11:50 PM
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Do you have a decent aftermarket boost gauge where the clock normally goes in the dash? Reason I ask is that you have no reason to fear overboost unless you actually are experiencing overboost. None whatsoever...either your wastegate is dumping at 1 bar or it is overboosting, but not both, if you know what I mean. When you actually let off the gas pedal you may see a quick spike when you are off throttle before the recirculating valve cuts in to channel the air back into the turbo, but that is not the same as overboosting your target of 1 bar while on the throttle. In fourth gear, with your foot to the floor, it should hold steady at 1 bar, but when you let off the gas it might spike up for half a second before recirculating, but that is not overboost. That is normal.
Overboost is a problem in only some cases with a Tial wastegate, not normally the factory wastegate, and not always with the Tial either.
As far as intercoolers, blown6 has supposedly cleaned up their product, which started out a little bit rough to fit, but they have supposedly stepped up and address their issues. Even a half bay IC from them would totally set you straight for your needs.
For less than a grand you can get a goingsuperfast IC, which is actually made by extreme intercoolers for GSF, and so it is a very good unit. The only problem there is that it will not be completely bolt on, you will need to probably line up the entry and exit tubes yourself, but that is the cheap way to go if you don't mind monkeying with it.
When going to a better IC, you should update to a modern C2 type diverter valve and dump your old fashion recirculating assembly. Imagine Auto can actually hook you up with parts for that. They also sell B+B intercoolers where you would not need to make the conversion (short neck style). Don't know about the cost on those, but they are good ICs as well.
Lots of ways to skin a goose.
Overboost is a problem in only some cases with a Tial wastegate, not normally the factory wastegate, and not always with the Tial either.
As far as intercoolers, blown6 has supposedly cleaned up their product, which started out a little bit rough to fit, but they have supposedly stepped up and address their issues. Even a half bay IC from them would totally set you straight for your needs.
For less than a grand you can get a goingsuperfast IC, which is actually made by extreme intercoolers for GSF, and so it is a very good unit. The only problem there is that it will not be completely bolt on, you will need to probably line up the entry and exit tubes yourself, but that is the cheap way to go if you don't mind monkeying with it.
When going to a better IC, you should update to a modern C2 type diverter valve and dump your old fashion recirculating assembly. Imagine Auto can actually hook you up with parts for that. They also sell B+B intercoolers where you would not need to make the conversion (short neck style). Don't know about the cost on those, but they are good ICs as well.
Lots of ways to skin a goose.