Bernard

Today I stopped by the auto part store to see if I could get my hands on a can of R12 oil to lubricate my system but had no luck. The guy showed me a kit to convert to R134 and all it had was two cans, gauge and two fittings and he said that's all I would need. I remember it being more then that. Has something changed? I know I have to evacuate the old R12 out.

911rudy

Bernard,
I just changed my entire system and the company that sold me the kit said to be sure and evacuate all of the old R12 oil from the componets and system. Some compressors have resivoirs with oil in them and that must be drained and replaced with 134a oil. He also informed me that the pressure that the two systems operate under were different. The 134a is a much higher pressure than the R12 so don't use the old R12 numbers. My kit came with a high/low pressure switch because the 134a sys can create an over pressure condition that is more harmful than the low pressure condition. The old R12 sys did not have high pressure switches. Also, when you replace the fittings on your compressor so that the new 134a hoses will hook up, you will need to take out the Schrader valves in the old fittings because the new ones have them and the sys will not work properly if you leave them in. This will mean that you will lose all of your charge and will need to be vacuumed out before adding new freon.

PorscheDoc

You should also change your dryer out as well. Driver front wheelwell is the location.

Bernard

Thanks for the Info... I'll see which way I want to go once I can get the rear condenser fixed.

JFairman

Unless you have a source for R12 I don't think it's worth trying to flush out the entire old system, replace the drier and expansion valve, and refill it with R134.

Just my opinion, but you have a beautiful car and it deserves a new system with new parts for R134.
It's around 1500 for a kit with all the parts and you do the labor yourself.
Then another 300 for a 2 stage vacuum pump, manifold guages and a thermometer to stick into the AC duct while charging.
Or take it somewhere to be charged, and you'll be real lucky if they evacuate it for 3 hours to get all the moisture out of 40 feet of hose, and you'll pay about as much for one fill as the cost of the parts to do it yourself.
Around here you can buy a 30LB bottle of R134 for around $90.
It'll be nice ot have all that if you're chasing leaks or just decide to live with a slow leak.

Brent 930

I would consider removing all your AC components unless you really need it. You will save over 100lbs.!

911rudy

One other thing that I did not mention but the Pcar garage here told me was that they always blow out all new hoses and components with dry air, (Except the dryer), even though they come with plastic covers on each end. Also look into the very small end of the expansion valve because the orffice is so small that a grain of sand will block it. Ask me how I know this! Stephen is right, of course, about the dryer but the other thing is that you should not hook up the dryer until just before you are going to get the system vacuumed and don't take the caps off of the two inlets until then. My garage told me that in high humidity the dryers can absorb a lot of moisture and will be difficult to get it out. I think that we are all trying to tell you that it is not worth trying to just change freon and keep the old system but to go ahead and replace it. I did keep my compressor and front condenser but rinsed the condenser out with a compressed can of A/C cleaner with a little nozzle on the end of a hose. Then I blew them out with air until they were really dry. I've put in two different systems and both worked well. I'm getting about 40 degree air at the center inlet. My last kit was Retroair and it came with a new center vent to replace the one that is behind the console that blows on the top of your shoes. It was about $1300.