slownrusty

Guys - This weekend coming, I am tackling the brakes on the car. I bought a set of 993TT Big Reds which will be in the front with the 13" rotors and EBC pads.

I have heard of many people putting the stock 930 front calipers to the rear when doing this upgrade. At the same time I have heard that the pedal feel is a little "mushy", so my questions:

1) Is it neccessary to move the front OEM 930 Calipers to the rear?
2) What are the benefits of this?
3) Is it a bolt-on?
4) Does the pedal truly become mushy?

-or-

Just leave the rears stock and install the big Reds up front? I am thinking this is the way to go, as I would like to keep my e-brake.

Any tips and pointers would also be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
Regards - Yasin

dholling13

My car has your front brakes in the rear (stock), and I have upgraded to big blacks in the front. Worth every penny.

I don't know what adapters you will need to adapt these various brakes to your 930 hubs.

onboost

Yasin,

I've heard the same thing too.. (I have heard of many people putting the stock 930 front calipers to the rear when doing this upgrade) However I've questioned the reasoning as the calipers and pads are the same Frnt to rear on a 930. I know they are plumbed a little differently but other than that they appear to be the same.

Also, with regard to your e-brake.. as long as you are not changing the rotors on the rear, your e-brake will work as it functions as part of the rotor rather than part of the caliper. Your rotor is also a drum of sorts which contains a set of small brake shoes, they expand against the drum when you pull-up the e-brake.

Hope that helps some...

Paul

Dknebes

I did this upgrade. The front calipers have more clamping force and you can keep your e-brake you only move the caliper not the rotors. I do have slightly mushy brakes on the track and was looking to upgrade my master cylinder to a twin cylinder I believe from Fabcar. The brakes work fine in a street environment.

A930Rocket

I have the Bigs Reds front and rear, but if I had to do it again, I'd save the money and install the Big Reds in front and move the front calipers to the rear. The front calipers have a larger piston and thus more clamping force as David said. They will bolt right on, but don't forget you will have to swap your bleeders and cross over lines on each caliper. Otherwise, they'll be upside down. The left front goes to the right rear, etc.

I don't think you'll have a mush brake and don't see what MC you upgrade too. You may need to play with different pads to make sure your brake bias is OK front to rear.

DonE

I did mine in steps, and moved the front to the rear. It worked great, but just looks a bit odd. I DE'ed mine a lot with no problems with pedal at Road Atlanta (a great turbo track). The reason I put BR's all around is that I found a set on ebay for next to nothing. Once I did the full BR conversion, I had to install a proportioning valve because the bias was so far off. Once set, the stopping power is equally awe inspiring as the power.

Dknebes

Hi Don, are you running a stock master cylinder and does your car have vacuum assist? I believe you are saying your brakes have a firm pedal as well. I am trying to figure out why my brakes do not have a firm pedal, ok on the street but dis concerning entering a corner on the track at high speed.

A930Rocket

David, do you have the stock rubber flex lines or stainless steel flex lines? My pedal is firm and I'm using the stainless steel flex lines.

A930Rocket

One other thought to keeping the stock front rotors in back is brake pad costs. I use the Pagid Yellows and they run about $275-300 a set. The stock caliper pads in the same compund are a lot cheaper and easier to get.

DonE

The pedal feel on the track (and street) is incredible. And yes, everything is stock (79) except the stainless steel flex lines, calipers, rotors, pads and proportioning valve. I made sure I bled the brakes thoroughly and used a top shelf fluid.

Entering turn 10a-b at Road Atlanta, I could make student's arms raise and their helmets tilt down (6 pt harness) on braking. I think one cried once. Anyway, the braking is awesome.

Dknebes

I have Stainless lines and have bled the brakes many times and have had the shop change the fluid and bled the brakes before a track event. I thinks the only thing that could be wrong is the master cylinder.

Stevie 77 930

If all checks out as you say, mushy brakes can origniate from a bad brake booster as well.

Dknebes

Thanks, that is what I thought