Engine oil
07-23-2007 | 04:00 AM
#16
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,173
Likes: 1
From: Official Jack off extinguisher
Originally Posted by spuggy
Be aware that some oils - Mobil 1, for example - is a different formulation in Europe, with the same packaging. There was a thread on PP that mentioned this about 6-9 months ago. IIRC, Europe gets the full synthetic version, whereas the US one went to dino base.
It's all very well to say that the synth oils are better for the turbo than the motor - and this may be true - but remember that eventually all the oil will go through both, and one of these gets very hot, and the other sometimes gets frickin' scary hot (ever looked at the headers and the wastegate dump when your car is being dyno'd? Ha!)
I've never looked, but I'm told the oil collected in the turbo drip tank looks like crema from an espresso machine before it gets returned to the tank (crema is that frothy light brown foam)...
I like the idea of Rotella T - diesels are extreme pressure and heat applications, often turboed. My wrenches use that, in rotation with Texaco Havoline.
My thinking is that there may well be oils that suit air-cooled motors better than water-cooled - and turbos are a very high heat application. I wouldn't settle for anything less than a good-quality, brand name fully-synthetic for a 930 - given where dino oils break down and the temperatures inside a 930, just think of this as another area that's moved a long way in 30 years.
It also seems to be a good idea to consider the factory oil change interval as overly optimistic and do it more frequently.
It's all very well to say that the synth oils are better for the turbo than the motor - and this may be true - but remember that eventually all the oil will go through both, and one of these gets very hot, and the other sometimes gets frickin' scary hot (ever looked at the headers and the wastegate dump when your car is being dyno'd? Ha!)
I've never looked, but I'm told the oil collected in the turbo drip tank looks like crema from an espresso machine before it gets returned to the tank (crema is that frothy light brown foam)...
I like the idea of Rotella T - diesels are extreme pressure and heat applications, often turboed. My wrenches use that, in rotation with Texaco Havoline.
My thinking is that there may well be oils that suit air-cooled motors better than water-cooled - and turbos are a very high heat application. I wouldn't settle for anything less than a good-quality, brand name fully-synthetic for a 930 - given where dino oils break down and the temperatures inside a 930, just think of this as another area that's moved a long way in 30 years.
It also seems to be a good idea to consider the factory oil change interval as overly optimistic and do it more frequently.
BTW, I use the Rotella in my trucks with no problems but going to Mobil1 would not cause me any sleep loss.. The Rotella 5-40 is a bargain at 16 bucks a gallon.
08-05-2007 | 02:28 PM
#18
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: London,UK
Many thanks for all the replies - much appreciated.
In the end I used Castrol Edge Sport (previously known as RS) 10w/60 fully synthetic. The marketing blurb says it's designed for older, modified turbo applications.
Now done 2,000 miles since I bought the car almost 3 months ago - best car I ever had, although my wife hates the colour (gold) and the spoiler (big).
Glaffy
In the end I used Castrol Edge Sport (previously known as RS) 10w/60 fully synthetic. The marketing blurb says it's designed for older, modified turbo applications.
Now done 2,000 miles since I bought the car almost 3 months ago - best car I ever had, although my wife hates the colour (gold) and the spoiler (big).
Glaffy
08-05-2007 | 03:45 PM
#19
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,261
Likes: 1
From: Cooterville, Carolina
Just wanted to provide and update: Since switching to the Shell Rotella T 5W-40 synthetic, I've noticed that my oil consumption is up a tad, no leaks. Keep in mind, it's been about 96 to 97 degrees here, so it's HAWT. I've just ordered two cases of Brad Penn 20W-50 (this is the "old" Kendall GT stock that's green in color). So we'll see. I think the 40 weight is just too thin for summer months.
Last edited by sand_man; 08-09-2007 at 10:22 AM.
08-05-2007 | 04:16 PM
#20
Racer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 406
Likes: 0
From: S. Florida
Something like the origonal Mobil 1 15w-50 thats high in ZDDP has been brought back due to demand...
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Mo...1_15W-50_.aspx
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Mo...1_15W-50_.aspx
08-09-2007 | 09:34 AM
#22
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,261
Likes: 1
From: Cooterville, Carolina
Originally Posted by sand_man
Just wanted to provide and update: Since switching to the Shell Rotella T 5W-40 synthetic, I've noticed that my oil consumption is up a tad, no leaks. Keep in mind, mine it's been about 96 to 97 degrees here, so it's HAWT. I've just ordered two cases of Brad Penn 20W-50 (this is the "old" Kendall GT stock that's green in color). So we'll see. I think the 40 weight is just too thin for summer months.
Call me crazy, but I'm seeing better response/sensitivity from the aftermarket boost gauge that I installed a few weeks ago. To re-cap, I thought the thing was broken as I was only getting readings after really hammering the engine. The tach boost gauge would show pressure, but this thing wouldn't. I wonder if the thicker oil is "sealing" the internal tolerances better. Not trying to pass the Penn off as "snake oil", as I'm sure I'd see the same sealing results with any 20W-50.
As I mentioned the Rotella 5W-40 Synthetic, is too thin for the Summer...it was 103 here yesterday! My engine has no leaks and no obvious smoking beyond the occaisional quick-smoke at start up. So I think the 5W was finding its way into some areas that a thicker oil wouldn't. My oil consumption might have been at about 1 quart for every 600 miles. I'd like it to be about 1 quart for every 1,000 miles or a tad more. It's still a pretty new engine.