Removing Header Nuts/Bolts
06-29-2007, 05:49 AM
#17
Track Day
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Oahu
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by PorscheDoc
It is actually only a mail order product....it is well worth it.
I have had some good results with PB blaster in the past, so I am going to give it a go with the PB blaster for now but if I run into some issues I am going with Porsche Doc's advice.
06-29-2007, 11:49 AM
#18
Pro
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Wisconsin, formerly of Boston
Posts: 571
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Originally Posted by PorscheDoc
If you guys are trying to remove stubborn nuts, I HIGHLY recommend a product called Kroil, by Kano Laboratories. It is a product similar to PB blaster rust penetrant, but makes that stuff look like water. I have removed some really rusted stuff that probably shouldn't have come loose with this stuff.
The stuff works. I have both products, Kroil and PB Blaster, both work extremely well. Kroil may have the edge on acting faster.
06-29-2007, 06:55 PM
#20
Racer
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can pick up one of those easy to carry mobile acetylene/ oxygen welding kits that commercial airconditioning technicians use pretty cheap second hand, or they are around $275 new complete.
Like this one from Harbor Freight: Item #: 3395-2VGA, $269.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...294&pricetype=
When the gas eventually runs out you take the empty bottles to a welding supply house and they switch out your empty bottles for full ones.
These welding kits the ones with the 15" tall, 4" and 5" wide steel bottles. The green bottle is oxygen and the gray one (red in this picture) is acetylene.
Use the smallest tip and set the flame real small like you want to braze some small steel parts without melting the steel and you can get an exhaust nut red hot in seconds.
Just don't sit there cooking it... as soon as it turns red hot turn off the gas, put a box end wrench on it and it will come loose easily.
If you have the B&B Headers with heat installed you will want to have the special wrench they sell that goes around the heater boxes.
It comes with a new set of headers
The nut splitter probably works OK too if you can get it in that small area between the heat exchangers and exhaust flanges, but if you like fixing and fabricating things a small welding kit comes in handy often.
Like this one from Harbor Freight: Item #: 3395-2VGA, $269.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...294&pricetype=
When the gas eventually runs out you take the empty bottles to a welding supply house and they switch out your empty bottles for full ones.
These welding kits the ones with the 15" tall, 4" and 5" wide steel bottles. The green bottle is oxygen and the gray one (red in this picture) is acetylene.
Use the smallest tip and set the flame real small like you want to braze some small steel parts without melting the steel and you can get an exhaust nut red hot in seconds.
Just don't sit there cooking it... as soon as it turns red hot turn off the gas, put a box end wrench on it and it will come loose easily.
If you have the B&B Headers with heat installed you will want to have the special wrench they sell that goes around the heater boxes.
It comes with a new set of headers
The nut splitter probably works OK too if you can get it in that small area between the heat exchangers and exhaust flanges, but if you like fixing and fabricating things a small welding kit comes in handy often.
06-29-2007, 10:20 PM
#21
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 740
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I got real lucky this afternoon... I got them all off without breaking a stud. On the way home I picked up a can of mapp gas and pb blaster. I sprayed the nuts with it and let it sit for 10 minutes and tried to loosen the nuts with no luck. I then heated the nut for 5 minutes to cherry red and gave it a try and still no go. I then sprayed them again and used my extension and put the end that the ratchet would go to and gave it many hits with a hammer and then I used a distributor wrench I had and they came right off. I'm sure the hammering is what did it. I can't began to tell you the feeling I had when they came loose.
09-17-2007, 01:41 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am nearing this task. My question is what are people doing for bolts upon installation? Reusing, buying new OEM, upgrading to stainless to avoid the rusted mess in the future?
Also where purchased?
TIA.
RT
Also where purchased?
TIA.
RT
