purplehaze.

I thought I’d post my cold weather project, while it’s still a bit cool out.

Well, it all started out by getting a scissor lift.

Late last Fall I painted my garage floor, installed new cabinets, work bench, electricity, lighting, and heat. It helped do the late November DE work– but of course I had winter projects in mind.

Got the lift late January and dropped the engine early February.

Always had it in mind to do the next engine drop at my place instead of at the mechanic’s garage. I missed a shift last Sept and needed a quick rebuild. Ever since then I wanted to do it at my place.

After a season with significant braking issues, I planned to address braking and suspension upgrades. Previously, I was getting (mostly) front wheel lockup, severe front rotor cracking (despite cooling), with poor modulation and minimal pedal travel. It went from just-touching the pedal to full-lockup in 1/2” (993TT front, 964/944T rear, PFC97 pads) and I was excessively early braking just to ensure I could take the turn safely. Not the fastest way around a track for sure.

Planned work/upgrades included:

Installing:
- adjustable Fox Racing shox (remove RSR coil overs)
- de-cambered ball joints
- poly bronze bushings in A-arms
- stiffer springs
- Wevo upper strut monoballs and strut bar
- trailing arm monoballs
- new rear Brembo GTP rotors and calipers
- new brake pads, F&R, Pagid Orange
- new front rotors (993TT)
- new heater cables in rear
- stainless steel turbo oil lines, 2
- new engine sound pad
- rear brake bias valve
- new silicone hoses
- *planned to shorten the gearing in my G50/50

- adjust valves
- replace lower oil return lines from turbos to valve covers
- hook up heater duct from rear oil cooler
- clean and paint the engine compartment
- remove unnecessary electrical components from eng compart.
- maybe paint the fan and surround


“While I’m in here” stuff included:
- powder coat almost every piece of metal on the engine
- paint all other pieces that couldn’t be powder coated
- bead blast and paint the front calipers
- degrease and paint the trailing arms
- extend the EBC wires for more slack to inside the cabin

Because it’s a twin-turbo, twin-plug, an engine drop makes doing the valves possible. Also, threading in replacement turbo oil lines justified the drop. A bit. Besides, it’s winter and what the hell else are you going to do but learn more about your car!?


Here’s the virgin clean floor and lift before the real work began.

purplehaze.

The engine before dropping wasn't too bad - but I knew I could make it better.

First off was the rear bumper, headers, turbos, muffler and turbo plumbing.

My mechanic friend Al helped me drop the engine. It's GREAT to have a knowledgable 911 mechanic as a friend!

Geoffrey

I will have to say that I think you'll regret the Pagid Orange pads, with a big heavy car. I found that the pads deposit crap on the rotors. I would suggest using Pagid RS19 pads.

What do you mean by a rear bias valve? I think you mean an adjustable pressure limiting valve which isn't really the right way to solve a brake problem.

purplehaze.

The engine had been dressed up before by Prototech but it had also begun to show some wear.

Been dreaming about freshening up the intakes with new paint or powder....

Off with intakes and fuel injection! (and no, I've never doen this before, hence the beers...)

purplehaze.

Yes, I inistalled an adj pressure limitinig valve for the rear calipers. I didn't want to find out I had too MUCH rear brake only after track season had begun. All I know is that it worked for the last 2 days at LRP! That is, after the new pads finally bedded in on the new rotors. Yikes that was scary!

Not one crack, front or rear, and I adjusted it a notch when I sensed the heard the rears lock for a second. The GTP's may give a tad more stopping power than I wanted, so I added the adjustability factor in. For once I have brakes and they kept getting better and better.

I may go the RS19's if these give any trouble, but for now they're working fine. Cups and Saucers should be a proper test in May!

purplehaze.

Tear down continues.... for valve adjustment

Then before and after of engine sound pad.

Plus new oil hoses to custom fabricate one from the oil tank - the one on the left.

purplehaze.

When I sent out the engine parts for bead blasting, and powder coating, I jumped on the suspension work.

Let's say I was good to myself as a belated Christmas!

purplehaze.

Off came the Bilstein RSR coil overs then the banana arms to replace the bushings.

Turning rubber into monoballs!

purplehaze.

Time to make things shiny!

(I hadn't learned NOT to spray paint anywhere near an uncovered car yet)

purplehaze.

After admiring the painted rear arms, I had fun with the front.

Sometimes it takes a LOT of effort to free a frozen bump steer kit!

About this time I probably went a little TOO far with bead blasting and powder coating. The front calipers looked OK, but you know, I could make them better ....

The intercooler tubing and fan nut/washers also went into the bead blasting hopper....

purplehaze.

For some reason I always wanted to paint the engine compartment if I ever dropped the engine.... After degreasing and scrubbing, primer, factory-paint (diamond blue metallic), and then clear coat.

purplehaze.

Cleaning up the electrical stuff -

From this old one, to a clean piece of aluminum.....

And then making more things shiny!

purplehaze.

FRONT suspension work:

A-arms removed, suspension gutted.....

BrianKeithSmith

Dude - you tha man!

cardsrule

nice work!!!! i am planning on installing some poly bronze bushings and monoballs this summer (AZ winter for our cars). How hard was the install? When you get the car back on the road you will have to let me know what you think of them.

Great looking car!