Gary what kind of filter is that and did you fabricate the bracket on the filter side? I used the same half that you did but I did not use the full width of the main piece. I have an extra OEM that I could modify like yours if it isn't too much work. The great thing is that I kept all of the hose connections and didn't have to use the little filters.

 

Looks just like post #17 from Rudy. Basic metal working skills and a torch. Apparently I'm not the only one to consider doing this. Notice it sits higher up in the engine bay, taking as much cold air as possible.

 

[QUOTE=DDD]That's a stock box with the bulk of the lid cut off.

 

[QUOTE=im4duke]And how would you know that?


Fabspeed would call that a "Cup Airbox" and charge $150 for the hinged piece.. but they would give you fake carbon fiber!

 

Is there any benefit to using a KN filter in the stock airbox, in terms of performance and/or fuller intake sound?

And with all these open airboxes, is rain a concern? I heard that even a little water is terrible for the 930 intake system.

 

I have the Evo intake. I did it with a ton of other mods at once so cant say it helped or hurt.

Wasnt my intent to get major power from it, I mainly wanted to clean up the engine and drop a few pounds. I never knew the stock box weighed that much. It must be fabricated from lead.

 

My ideal ( just theoretic) would be a 3/4 bay IC
like the 965, no AC condensor under lid
and a "snorkel" getting air from under the lid.
(as said, I saw picture of that few days ago)

Thats my "wish" setup for fresh air only!

How longer tubing influences the power
I cant tell.
And how many degrees air temp drop
this would produce I cant tell too.

But season is coming, maybe I am able to run
a temp log soon.

Falk

 

I recently replaced the stock filter with a new standard one. The sucking sound was much more noticeable at WOT proving that these things get choked up with use.

Can't comment on any power/ response differences, but can confirm the silencer replacement (g-pipe) does make a difference to low end smoothness.

 

Haven't been in the rain yet, but I live in Florida and have never had an issue with the rain other than the fan belt squealing a little at start-up. I'll post some pics as soon as I can. Right now its at the shop getting its 70,000 mile check-up, rear brake pads, and an oil change. This weekend I need to study the engine bay and see what kind of bracket I can fab up using existing attachment points. I don't want to have to drill holes or weld if I can absolutely help it. Like I said, anything I've done to it is minor so I can return it to bone stock if I want later.

 

Hey Jonathan,
I probably would only have done it if only for the increased access to the engine bay. I think any other claim as to HP increases or efficiency is hogwash. Like I said I'm still a little less than satisfied with tying everything back down, but that's just me. Some might think its trivial. Was it worth $275 ? Probably not, but everything seems to be a little pricier when you say the words "turbo" and Porsche in the same sentence ;-)

 

"everything seems to be a little pricier when you say the words "turbo" and Porsche in the same sentence ;-)"

Unfortunately, so VERY TRUE!!!

 

If you watch ebay like I do for that occasional thing that you can't live without, you will see OEM airboxes for sale and they usually don't fetch very much. I bought one for $35 plus shipping of $20 to make my K&N round type that you see above. It's funny but the one I bought on line was better than my original! Anyway, for that kind of money you can experiment with any design that you can dream up. If you don't cut it off behind the two oil breather hose fittings, then you don't introduce new and cluttering extra parts into the bay. There is also a support bracket under the upper part that I left to make it rigid. I think a snorkel would be simple if you didn't have a full bay IC. You could remove the blocking strip that runs down the middle of the lid between the A/C cond. and the normal IC opening and fabricate an aluminum intake that was the same shape ie; rectangular, like a brake cooling duct, and lead it via a silicone hose to the boxed in filter. With a bracket on the IC to keep it rigid, it would stick up and meet the lid when it was closed. In conjunction with that a fabricated scoop on the outside of the lid would probably help under way.

 

Okay,
As an update, due to personal problems still haven't fixed the tie down issues, but, yesterday afternoon we had a pretty good thunderstorm run through Central Florida, It played real havoc at Sebring yesterday I understand, but the car ran fine, I physically opened up "the boot" and checked for water in the filter, and was pleased to find none. So I don't think this is any issue unless its in either a Hurricane or flood.

After driving it for a while, I still think I might be noticing a slightly quicker spool-up (I know its only my "butt dyno" and watching the inaccurate factory boost guage, but I see more movement earlier than I did).

It isn't worth $275, but the whoosh sound at WOT is pretty neat, and of course, the motor is a lot more open..