Who has a LC-1 Wideband Controller?
01-14-2007, 05:32 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Chet,
You must be one of the lucky ones, I have had nothing but problems on the install of the LC-1 & XD-1
It turns out that the XD-1 default was wrong and I had a heck of a time getting my computer to link up to the XD-1 to re-program it. I finally got everything reading corectly,however I still cannot get the record button to function correctly or @ all.
You must be one of the lucky ones, I have had nothing but problems on the install of the LC-1 & XD-1
It turns out that the XD-1 default was wrong and I had a heck of a time getting my computer to link up to the XD-1 to re-program it. I finally got everything reading corectly,however I still cannot get the record button to function correctly or @ all.
01-14-2007, 06:08 PM
#32
Racer
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tracy,Ca
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well.....its not done yet. But I dont foresee any issues since I've calibrated already. I'm also going to use mine as a stand alone so I didnt need to use three of the wires. I'll let you know what happens when its done.
01-14-2007, 06:19 PM
#33
Advanced
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: The Rockies
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Falk930
I like the ZT-2 from Zeitronix.
We are using them on supercharged Miatas.
I dont know the LC-1, maybe its same.
With the Zeitronix I can easy log AFR/RPM/EGT/boost
and a user input (0-5V sensor).
You can programm alarms
and a relay switch point.
Additionally there is a small display available
showing data numeric.
I have a extension wire here,
and will measure it and post lenght.
I have planed one for my 930,
but as I still havnt found time
to build my own muffler,
its not in yet.
"no winter here in germany till now"
Falk
We are using them on supercharged Miatas.
I dont know the LC-1, maybe its same.
With the Zeitronix I can easy log AFR/RPM/EGT/boost
and a user input (0-5V sensor).
You can programm alarms
and a relay switch point.
Additionally there is a small display available
showing data numeric.
I have a extension wire here,
and will measure it and post lenght.
I have planed one for my 930,
but as I still havnt found time
to build my own muffler,
its not in yet.
"no winter here in germany till now"
Falk
I've been using one for almost 2 years now, and it does everything I need.
The new optional switch allows all kinds of things, even an RPM activated boost solenoid for the CIS guys. The display fits nicely in the ashtray opening.
01-14-2007, 11:08 PM
#34
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Near Atlanta, Ga. Peachtree City
Posts: 1,344
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Chet,
I did what you are suggesting about going through the area behind the reflector and down to the bung, but there are a couple of problems with that route. First of all that area is protected from heat by a metal reflective shield and you will have to go through it and then make sure that you seal around the wire. Second is that the probe doesn't have a "Small" end so the hole mus be huge. What I did was cut a slot in the shield the thickness of the wire and then slid the wire into the slot and then screwed a small plate over the slot once the wire was installed. The only exit from this space is where the body meets the reflector just below the left tail light and it comes out right where the cold side of the turbo is. I think I found a better way and that is to bring the long wire through the engine tin on the left side of the engine just in front of the WG. There is already a rubber grommet in the tin and the small end of the long wire just fits through it. Working your way back towards the rear come along side where the sparkplugs are and then down through area where the oil line goes to the turbo. Once you get there the probe end is right there too and all you do is connect them and put a wire tie to keep them off any hot items. Going foward from the grommet hole I followed the body conture and used the cable/hose clamps alreday in place. Then through the clutch cable hole and into the back seat. It's clean and you do not have to cut or drill anything except the heat shield which no one will ever see. Now that I have moved my bung to a cooler place I don't use the reflector area anymore but drop the probe wire straight down from the turbo oil hole. The way I described the proceedure above indicates that I worked backward from the grommet hole but that is not true. Because the long wire has only one small end, you must start at the rear opening above the turbo and below the engine, along the spark plugs and then out the grommet hole and into the car. I hope this offers some help.
I did what you are suggesting about going through the area behind the reflector and down to the bung, but there are a couple of problems with that route. First of all that area is protected from heat by a metal reflective shield and you will have to go through it and then make sure that you seal around the wire. Second is that the probe doesn't have a "Small" end so the hole mus be huge. What I did was cut a slot in the shield the thickness of the wire and then slid the wire into the slot and then screwed a small plate over the slot once the wire was installed. The only exit from this space is where the body meets the reflector just below the left tail light and it comes out right where the cold side of the turbo is. I think I found a better way and that is to bring the long wire through the engine tin on the left side of the engine just in front of the WG. There is already a rubber grommet in the tin and the small end of the long wire just fits through it. Working your way back towards the rear come along side where the sparkplugs are and then down through area where the oil line goes to the turbo. Once you get there the probe end is right there too and all you do is connect them and put a wire tie to keep them off any hot items. Going foward from the grommet hole I followed the body conture and used the cable/hose clamps alreday in place. Then through the clutch cable hole and into the back seat. It's clean and you do not have to cut or drill anything except the heat shield which no one will ever see. Now that I have moved my bung to a cooler place I don't use the reflector area anymore but drop the probe wire straight down from the turbo oil hole. The way I described the proceedure above indicates that I worked backward from the grommet hole but that is not true. Because the long wire has only one small end, you must start at the rear opening above the turbo and below the engine, along the spark plugs and then out the grommet hole and into the car. I hope this offers some help.
01-15-2007, 04:56 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Chuck Jones
So.....before I go and do this...you're saying that I can cut the wires at some point where they reach into the cockpit rather than in the engine compartment....cut the wires, splice in an extension of several feet, then solder and shrink tube the connections? There's nothing special about these wires...and they can just be cut, spliced, soldered, insulated, and everything will work fine?
I just bought the LM-1 but the short length of the harness is an issue, and this discussion is right on point.
Chuck
I just bought the LM-1 but the short length of the harness is an issue, and this discussion is right on point.
Chuck
I have the 18' cable from Innovate S/N # 3739 to hook up the LM-1 to your O2 sensor. Its brand new, still in the plastic. Look @ Innovates site to make sure its what you need. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...me.php?cat=250 Its near the end of the page.
01-17-2007, 03:23 AM
#37
Drifting
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Elk Grove, California
Posts: 2,647
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Phil: Thanks so much for the offer...but I bought the LM-1 from a fellow off eBay...and it turned out he lived about 30 miles away so we met for coffee and I got the LM-1. I called him and he happened to have a 10 foot extension that he ended up giving me in return for brekfast. I would imagine that the ten foot extension should be enough length for me to get it into the area of the dash.
On another matter...Chet 930...I sent you a PM....
Chuck
On another matter...Chet 930...I sent you a PM....
Chuck
01-20-2007, 12:38 AM
#38
Racer
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tracy,Ca
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, so I got my LC-1 and XD-1 to work fine...for all of a couple of hours. I guess the sensor overheated (I have an rE5 error code). My bung is between the turbo and the muffler. Looks like I'll be buying another bung and sensor. Luckily it went out after I was done making some needed minor adjustments to the fuel map.
01-20-2007, 08:05 AM
#39
Race Car
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: England UK
Posts: 3,508
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Chet, I see they do a special extension to keep the sensor further away from heat yet it diverts gas flow onto the sensor still. It might be worth a try ? I am not sure but I did see they make it.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...cat=250&page=2
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...cat=250&page=2
01-20-2007, 09:27 AM
#40
Rennlist Member
Chet,
I have my O2 sensor in the same place, and have had no problems. When is the XD-1 showing you the RE5. When I hold the button down for 2 seconds it shows the RE5 too.
All the RE5 means is reset. it erases the hi & low memory.
I have my O2 sensor in the same place, and have had no problems. When is the XD-1 showing you the RE5. When I hold the button down for 2 seconds it shows the RE5 too.
All the RE5 means is reset. it erases the hi & low memory.
01-20-2007, 10:06 AM
#41
Racer
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tracy,Ca
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thats exactly what it does...when I hold it down for a couple of seconds. Outside of that all I get is 3 dashes across the XD-1 display. Its like the sensor is not even being recognized. I went through and checked all the wiring, cables etc and everything is good. I guess the question I have is this: are you supposed to get a message or some indication ( a code maybe) that the snesor is starting to overheat? I didnt get didly. The readout just jumped to dashes. Maybe something else is wrong.
Nathan...thanks for the info. I didnt even know that was available.
Nathan...thanks for the info. I didnt even know that was available.
01-20-2007, 10:12 AM
#42
Rennlist Member
If all you are getting is _._._ the XD-1 is not recognizing the LC-1. Do you have the dummy plug in the correct place? I found going to Innovates site and searching the forums to be very helpful.
I ended up having to hook my computer up to both the XD-1 and the LC-1 to make sure they were reading what they were supposed to. I had to reprogram both and set them to be reading gas @ 14.7.
I ended up having to hook my computer up to both the XD-1 and the LC-1 to make sure they were reading what they were supposed to. I had to reprogram both and set them to be reading gas @ 14.7.
01-20-2007, 10:16 AM
#43
Racer
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tracy,Ca
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If all you are getting is _._._ the XD-1 is not recognizing the LC-1. Do you have the dummy plug in the correct place? I found going to Innovates site and searching the forums to be very helpful.
01-20-2007, 10:20 AM
#44
Rennlist Member
Definitely go to the forums....lots of helpful people and Klaus will generally chime in to guid you through.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/index.php
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/index.php
01-21-2007, 01:40 AM
#45
Drifting
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Elk Grove, California
Posts: 2,647
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Chet: I've been wanting to come to Tracy and take a gander at your ride and have you give me some input on mine...and since I just bought an LM-1 that's unused to this point....if you want, give me a day/time and I'll drive down there and let you use the LM-1. That way, you can cross check it with yours.
Chuck
Chuck