Who has a LC-1 Wideband Controller?
#19
As I've mentioned in other threads, Innovate is not the only game in town. There are several other manufacturers of high-quality wide band equipment. I got very annoyed by the attitude (and apparent lack of knowledge) at Innovate, so I took my business elsewhere. Their product may be just fine, but I'd rather spend my money with a business that's run the way I'd run it if it were mine. I went to FJO Racing and am very satisfied with the product -- and with the support -- I got. But there are other vendors too. Vote with your checkbook...
#20
Zeitronix
I like the ZT-2 from Zeitronix.
We are using them on supercharged Miatas.
I dont know the LC-1, maybe its same.
With the Zeitronix I can easy log AFR/RPM/EGT/boost
and a user input (0-5V sensor).
You can programm alarms
and a relay switch point.
Additionally there is a small display available
showing data numeric.
I have a extension wire here,
and will measure it and post lenght.
I have planed one for my 930,
but as I still havnt found time
to build my own muffler,
its not in yet.
"no winter here in germany till now"
Falk
We are using them on supercharged Miatas.
I dont know the LC-1, maybe its same.
With the Zeitronix I can easy log AFR/RPM/EGT/boost
and a user input (0-5V sensor).
You can programm alarms
and a relay switch point.
Additionally there is a small display available
showing data numeric.
I have a extension wire here,
and will measure it and post lenght.
I have planed one for my 930,
but as I still havnt found time
to build my own muffler,
its not in yet.
"no winter here in germany till now"
Falk
#21
#22
Hi all,
I also have been checking out these Wideband kits and it looks like the Innovate is the only unit to offer Auto calibration to compensate for changes in temperature, altitude, and sensor condition. Does anyone know first hand if any of the other Wideband kits besides Innovate offer this feature? This I would think is very important unless you have a known standard and a way to adjust for set up, and this would still require periodic calibration every so often to check the accuracy of the reading.
Thanks
I also have been checking out these Wideband kits and it looks like the Innovate is the only unit to offer Auto calibration to compensate for changes in temperature, altitude, and sensor condition. Does anyone know first hand if any of the other Wideband kits besides Innovate offer this feature? This I would think is very important unless you have a known standard and a way to adjust for set up, and this would still require periodic calibration every so often to check the accuracy of the reading.
Thanks
#23
Hello,
regarding the recalibration,
is that really neccessary?
Which error or mistake quote
can a not recalibrated system produce?
As far I know, O2 systems in modern cars arent
recalibrated too, but they show acurate readings
as far they are not damaged.
Isnt sensor position and other circumstances
more the source for not exact readings?
Falk
regarding the recalibration,
is that really neccessary?
Which error or mistake quote
can a not recalibrated system produce?
As far I know, O2 systems in modern cars arent
recalibrated too, but they show acurate readings
as far they are not damaged.
Isnt sensor position and other circumstances
more the source for not exact readings?
Falk
#25
Calibrating is very important to get accurate numbers. I read somewhere that the way to test a sensor is to actually spray a gas that is known to be of a given figure onto it.
Narrowband are accurate, but only accurate at stoich/0%. This is not what we want to read. It's a bit like the digital watch that will be very accurate, once every thousand years or something. The wind up watch will never be accurate unless it is set accurate to start with.
Narrowband are accurate, but only accurate at stoich/0%. This is not what we want to read. It's a bit like the digital watch that will be very accurate, once every thousand years or something. The wind up watch will never be accurate unless it is set accurate to start with.
#26
Drifting
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Elk Grove, California
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So.....before I go and do this...you're saying that I can cut the wires at some point where they reach into the cockpit rather than in the engine compartment....cut the wires, splice in an extension of several feet, then solder and shrink tube the connections? There's nothing special about these wires...and they can just be cut, spliced, soldered, insulated, and everything will work fine?
I just bought the LM-1 but the short length of the harness is an issue, and this discussion is right on point.
Chuck
I just bought the LM-1 but the short length of the harness is an issue, and this discussion is right on point.
Chuck
#28
Addict
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Near Atlanta, Ga. Peachtree City
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Chuck,
One small item that you might consider is to cut each wire about one inch longer than the next one so that you don't get a big thick spot in the splice. Just be sure that you have a long piece of shrink tube on the cable before you solder the first wire.
One small item that you might consider is to cut each wire about one inch longer than the next one so that you don't get a big thick spot in the splice. Just be sure that you have a long piece of shrink tube on the cable before you solder the first wire.
#29
Drifting
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Elk Grove, California
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Rudy: Great suggestions. I've got a whole herd of shrink tubing in all sizes....so your suggestion will help make this a nice clean looking modification. Thanks for the input....Rennlist comes thru again...
#30
Ok.....so I'm almost done with the install. I only have the O2 sensor to connect. The XD1 is mounted in my center console with a voltage guage below it. I made a new piece to fit in the console and place the guages in one on top of the other. Looks almost factory.The LC-1 is inside under the relay cover on the left side of the engine compartment.
My only hold up is that I dont really like the idea of having to go thru the engine tin because of the heat. So I'm going to remove the reflector above the bumper so I can get behind the body in that area and run the O2 cable down to the bung.
I had to go to Radio Shack and get a longer cable for the connection between the LC1 and the XD1. I only had to run one 12 volt hot wire from the console to the LC1. The XD1 is wired up front. The rest were grounded in different spots or left unused per the instructions. The O2 sensor calibrated fine and all is good so far. The install was a lot easier than it looked. I hope to get a moment either tonight (if its not so freakin cold ) or tomorrow to finish.
My only hold up is that I dont really like the idea of having to go thru the engine tin because of the heat. So I'm going to remove the reflector above the bumper so I can get behind the body in that area and run the O2 cable down to the bung.
I had to go to Radio Shack and get a longer cable for the connection between the LC1 and the XD1. I only had to run one 12 volt hot wire from the console to the LC1. The XD1 is wired up front. The rest were grounded in different spots or left unused per the instructions. The O2 sensor calibrated fine and all is good so far. The install was a lot easier than it looked. I hope to get a moment either tonight (if its not so freakin cold ) or tomorrow to finish.