hailwood

what would you do?

This would be just in the engine area, and exhaust/turbo/wastegate.

any suggestions welcome, i would like the end result to be 350-400hp and as reliable as possible for everyday driving and trackdays. car alread had brakes and wheels and kokeln intercooler.

i would do a clutch at the same time so that is not included in the 5K. any other things (tricks of the trade) that you would do at the same time?

thanks.

38D

1) Headers
2) K27 HF
3) Adjustable WUR with solenoid kit
4) IA Fuel head mod

If you are doing the clutch, do a LWFW too.

RarlyL8

Subtract #4, you don't need it if not exceeding 400HP.
I would also vote #1-3 and replace #4 with a set of cams if money allowed.

slownrusty

Where's Sameer's famous list when you need it!

hailwood

i would also like to achieve much lower boost rps, so keep that in mind with the new turbo reccomendations.

i have been told that between a new turbo and new exhaust you can lower the boost range by 750-1000 rps. this would be ideal.

Cajun

Good thread. I am also interested in the suggestions of the people here. Realistically, with the suggestions above, what hp numbers should you expect with a proper tune?

911rudy

I wish the theory about lowering your boost point by 750-1000 rpm by going to headers and a K27 worked but it doesn't. I have a B&B IC, new, no-heater headers, a dual outlet free flow muf and a new K27 and my boost rpm is almost identical to what it was, 2800 rpm. Maybe I need to adjust something else but I don't know what would make that much difference to my set up. Any ideas? I have never met anyone who has lowered their on boost rpm by 750-1000 rpm with those mods but I am willing to listen to what they did if there are any. To me the high boost rpm really makes these cars difficult to drive on the street and any way to lower the boost rpm would be a revolution. Look how long it took Porsche to get the boost down on the new cars. I think the twin turbos were the first street cars to attain a big drop.

Gino

How I'd spend for STREET power, if I did it again...

hot leakdown and base dyno (if the #s are not really good, forget it, spend it on a rebuild)
headers (B&B or GHL with a Euro muffler)
new turbo (K27-HF or similar, even a 7200)
cams (964 grind, or SC)
new gearsets (2,3, 4th or 8:39 R&P)
re-dyno (for final AFR tuning and HP/TQ)

that should yield about 375 RWHP and similar TQ.

A930Rocket

I was getting 345 rwhp with just GHL headers, a gutted B&B single outlet muffler, a K27-7200 turbo, Tial WG with a 1 bar spring and a Kokeln intercooler.

I used it the track for five years, limiting my rpms to 6400, so they can last. Doing dyno runs before and after the work is a good idea.

If you do the work yourself, you can save a bundle. Imagine has a sale on parts right now.

RarlyL8

The above suggestions are tried and true for 350RWHP.
Lowering your boost threshold howerver involves the right combination of parts. The cams, turbo, headers, intercooler, and tuning all have to work in concert to get the threshold as low as possible and the power output as high as possible. For starters the K27-7200 is not an optimum turbo for low boost threshold, they come on about 2800rpm.

Gary R.

Can you just toss a new K27 HF "S" onto a totally stock 3.3 in place of the original turbo and see/feel any real performance gain? How about headers/K27?

jimculp

Extra air in should'nt help without being able to get it out (headers).

Gary R.

Don't need no stinkin heat.. What type of performance gain just adding these two things to a stock (healhy) 3.3?

nathanUK '81 930 G50

Replacing the K26 with a K27 HFS will mean that at the high bhp end the pre IC temp will be lower, which is good for your stock IC which will equal lower intake temp wwhich will equal more bhp.
Also the turbo will spool earlier.

911rudy

Nathan,
I'm afraid I have to disagree with you about quicker spool times with a bigger IC. I noticed a slower time with my new B&B than I had with the original OEM which I think was optimized for street use. I know that the larger ICs are better heat sinks and therefore lower heat to the engine but they do take more time for the air charge to navigate the larger size of the larger ICs. In fact when I bought my B&B I was told that it might slow my on boost time by just a little. I"m beginning to think that for most of us who do not track our cars we are buying stuff that we will not get the true benefit from. I know I would pay a lot to get boost at 2000 rpm and not worry about top end HP. As engine mods push the total hp up, the boost onset is not going down which means that when you do get boost it is so strong that it is almost unmanageable.