mark '87 930

I'm just curious, after reading all of these different posts, and absorbing information from some of you more knowledgeable 930 guru's...should I get the car DYNO'd and fine tuned at a shop?

I ask because I like to do things myself.. huge sense of pride and gratification.. and personally, I don't think this stuff is rocket science!

1) I was wondering if I should get an LM-1 (more for testing and not for permanent installation..I like to keep the interior stock) and temporarily install mount it to do some runs and test it. Adjusting the car as required, and then I'm done..

2) I have an basic version of a A/F gauge, and wonder, can I purchase just a wideband O2 sensor and hook it up to that instead of the one there?

3) Also, for tuning, is it really only the mixture screw on the fuel distributor that I adjust, or are there other adjustments?

Or should I just take it to the Dyno, have them do it, and post a video with sound of it once it's done?

If some of you recognize my user name.. you'd see that I've replaced the headers and muffler, will be installing a K27-7200, and run at ~.85-.9 bar.

Thoughts?

125shifter

I haven't tuned with the CIS, but there's no substitute for putting it on a dyno, especially one that can hold load at a certain rpm.

A930Rocket

I'm with David. I have an Innovate LC-1, but I'm also going to the dyno starting low and working my way up to full speed and checking A/F ratios at each run.

911rudy

One of the things that I have found over the many cars and years is that once you get a reason for a problem, in your head, is that you base all of your solutions on that reason. The bad part of this is that without real proof as to what the problem is, you spend a lot of time and money trying to solve the problem in your head by throwing money and parts at it. The best thing, and the least expensive, is to get a good tech to look at your car and tell you what the problem is and then you can attack it on your own. These cars are so simple and yet so complex because of the interaction of so many OLD parts. Look at the guys that just rebuilt their engines and the problems they have had when they install them and try to run them. Its usually a small thing but if you start throwing new parts at it you will actually create more problems. Just get a good diagnosis and go from there. God speed, and we all pray that we are not in your shoes tomorrow.
Rudy

SGOGT4

I have the LC-1 and have worked extensively to fine tune my adjustable WUR and can tell you I am kicking myself for not just renting some dyno time. My tunning issue is a slight liean condition at 5,500 - 6,000 RPMS in third gear. Finding safe venues to test those RPMS in the real world is far from easy unless you are at a track.

mark '87 930

Sounds pretty unanimous... or did you all say that so you can see/hear my dyno run? lol

Thanks for the feedback, the car runs great, but I don't know if it's running at it's optimal rate... this is why I ask, there is nothing wrong with the car.. she is great..

Mark

rs911t

The track isn't the solution, either. How long can you hold the car at 6000 rpm in 3rd WHILE LOOKING A THE DAMN METER! Maybe if you have access to a deserted Russian airbase with a 3 mile runway ... So, the track isn't so good.

Even if you did it this way (road/track/runway) it isn't going to be repeatable. You have to stop, get out of the car to make a change, do it again.

I've decided to buy the dyno time over the winter. YMMV

A930Rocket

Greg,

How did your car do at VIR? Brian said he saw you, but didn't get a chance to get with you.

My new turbo came back today (Thanks Kevi!) and I'm shooting to make it to VIR with the Carolinas Region PCA Dec 1-3.

Jim

rs911t

Looong story short ... I towed a broken car 250 miles.

I missed Friday 'cause I was still working on the car. Drove down that evening and parked the car in the paddock.

1st session Saturday morning: I set the timing, adjusted the mix and off we go ... only to be meatballed within 2 laps. My engine lid appeared to be open (which it did, but intentionally due to not having the new B6 I/C mounted optimally). The steering was also very lively.

2nd session: we're off again, but now with a distinct left pull and the steering feels just ugly at 100mph. On positive side the AFR looks fine (actually a bit rich), but suddenly the motor is missing and the AFR spikes high. WTF! Back to the paddock we go ... after another 2 laps.

I decide the missing is fuel related - there are two inline filters between the tank and the Holley pumps the feed the 1st accumulator, which feeds the normally located front pump. I suspect the filters are dirty (or the Holleys).

The best is yet to come. I jack the car up to inspect the steering rack and discover the left tie rod end is toast. All wobbly ... shot. Game Over. Put it on the trailer. Drive home in the rain Sunday.

Now I'm going to mope around all winter ...

mark '87 930

Guy's I'm still thinking I might get an Lm-1 regardless... that being said, if I decide to make any adjustments myself, is it just the mixture adjustment screw (3mm allen I believe)?

i will get a dyno run in the spring after I put in the k27 I'm rebuilding..

nathanUK '81 930 G50

That is the basic simple adjustment through the whole range, but it can get as technical as you want.

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...rian+leask+wur

mark '87 930

Could I use a regular 3mm allen key to get to it? It seems like there is not enough room to get it in there! I have a T handle type allen key and it's too long it seems, it hits the roof of the engine compartment and I can't get it all the way in the hole.

A930Rocket

I had to cut my 3mm allen wrench to get in there, but maybe it's just what I had.

I also JB Welded it in place because I was tired of looking for it when I needed it.

BrianKeithSmith

And just for the record, that is NOT part of the normal BrianKeithSmith assembly process.

Just so we're clear....

A930Rocket

But, didn't you say it was a good idea?