76' 930: 400 hp. Have questions.
#18
I dig the shiny intercooler!
My car was owned by a 69 year old guy who seemed a little vain, I think the appearance of the car was real important to him and maybe his 'social status'.
He had all the reciepts and kept it running good.
Question: I'm trying to put a brief description of the car under my 'post', like where you list your two audi's and two porsches, but I can't figure out how. I looked thru all the edit options and filled out the biography, but nothing is showing up under my 'posts'.
My car was owned by a 69 year old guy who seemed a little vain, I think the appearance of the car was real important to him and maybe his 'social status'.
He had all the reciepts and kept it running good.
Question: I'm trying to put a brief description of the car under my 'post', like where you list your two audi's and two porsches, but I can't figure out how. I looked thru all the edit options and filled out the biography, but nothing is showing up under my 'posts'.
#19
Burning Brakes
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The car looks great, what internal mods does the engine have?
I'd still be leary of running 1.2 bar until you've put it on a dyno to make sure the air fuel ratio (AFR) can support it.
The car looks great, what internal mods does the engine have?
I'd still be leary of running 1.2 bar until you've put it on a dyno to make sure the air fuel ratio (AFR) can support it.
#20
The engine was built about 10 years ago in Phoenix, with a hotter cam and break away valves. The engine itself puts out 360 h.p., which I imagine is not really heavily modified, but with the k-27 and intercooler it puts out a lot of power on the boost. It was set up really well, with two extra micro fuelers in the CIS. So it does run good on the boost, not lean or anything. The car has been this way for a while and doesn't appear to have any problems. I talked extensively to one of the mechanics that has kept the car in good shape, and he even took it home one weekend, and he doesn't see any problems with the set up.
I'm gonna have my local shop here in VA look at it, fix the oil leak, drive it.
Anyone here have a really good shop in central VA to recommend? I'm taking it to Luftecknic.
I'm gonna have my local shop here in VA look at it, fix the oil leak, drive it.
Anyone here have a really good shop in central VA to recommend? I'm taking it to Luftecknic.
#21
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Pelican also has a short distributor wire you can get towire into instead of the harness.
Here's some question and answer info I got from Steve Weiner who owns Rennsport Systems:
Steve: You'll need the tach adapter if you want to keep the stock tach.
Jim:I installed my MSD 6AL down low on the firewall behind the air box on the right side.
Here's some question and answer info I got from Steve Weiner who owns Rennsport Systems:
QUESTION: I'm installing an MSD 6AL in my '87 930 and have a question about the wiring. Here goes:
1- The large red wire goes to the battery or Pos lug on the starter solenoid.
2- The large black wire goes to ground.
3- The small orange wire goes to the Pos side of the coil.
4- The small black wire goes to the Neg side of the coil. DONE
5- The small red wire goes to switched Pos.
6- The white wire is not used. (I used this to trigger a MSD shift light after the initial install in addition to the tach output adapter)
7- The violet wire?
8- The green wire?
Since the Turbo uses a magnetic pick up type distributor and the MSD unit has a violet and green wire coming out of it which connects to the distributor, my question is which wire does the MSD violet wire connect to and which wire does the MSD green wire connect to coming out of the distributor? Does the MSD violet connect to the coaxial center wire or to the sheathing wire? Or the does the MSD green connect to the coaxial center wire or sheathing wire? Or does it even matter which one I connect to?
ANSWER: You are right in that the violet & green wires conduct the trigger voltage to the MSD. This is phase sensitive and must be connected correctly otherwise the car will not start or run poorly. Connect the center conductor to the green wire and the shield to the violet wire.
I didn't want to cut any of my harness up, so I unplugged the wiring harness off the CD and connected my wires there (the ones from the distributor).
QUESTION: In addition, to make the tach work correctly, the tach adapter is used and:
1- The red wire is to switched Pos. DONE
2- The black wire is to ground. DONE
3- The white wire goes to the tach output on the MSD unit itself. DONE
4- The violet wire is run to the tach input (the purple and black wire by the CD unit). DONE
Fine,.............
BTW. I emailed MSD the same question and they were clueless. Some tech support.
ROFL, and you are surprised at that???????
If its not some Detroit iron, those guys know nothing.
Steve Weiner
Rennsport Systems
Portland, Oregon
503.244.0990
porsche@rennsportsystems.com
Here's some question and answer info I got from Steve Weiner who owns Rennsport Systems:
Steve: You'll need the tach adapter if you want to keep the stock tach.
Jim:I installed my MSD 6AL down low on the firewall behind the air box on the right side.
Here's some question and answer info I got from Steve Weiner who owns Rennsport Systems:
QUESTION: I'm installing an MSD 6AL in my '87 930 and have a question about the wiring. Here goes:
1- The large red wire goes to the battery or Pos lug on the starter solenoid.
2- The large black wire goes to ground.
3- The small orange wire goes to the Pos side of the coil.
4- The small black wire goes to the Neg side of the coil. DONE
5- The small red wire goes to switched Pos.
6- The white wire is not used. (I used this to trigger a MSD shift light after the initial install in addition to the tach output adapter)
7- The violet wire?
8- The green wire?
Since the Turbo uses a magnetic pick up type distributor and the MSD unit has a violet and green wire coming out of it which connects to the distributor, my question is which wire does the MSD violet wire connect to and which wire does the MSD green wire connect to coming out of the distributor? Does the MSD violet connect to the coaxial center wire or to the sheathing wire? Or the does the MSD green connect to the coaxial center wire or sheathing wire? Or does it even matter which one I connect to?
ANSWER: You are right in that the violet & green wires conduct the trigger voltage to the MSD. This is phase sensitive and must be connected correctly otherwise the car will not start or run poorly. Connect the center conductor to the green wire and the shield to the violet wire.
I didn't want to cut any of my harness up, so I unplugged the wiring harness off the CD and connected my wires there (the ones from the distributor).
QUESTION: In addition, to make the tach work correctly, the tach adapter is used and:
1- The red wire is to switched Pos. DONE
2- The black wire is to ground. DONE
3- The white wire goes to the tach output on the MSD unit itself. DONE
4- The violet wire is run to the tach input (the purple and black wire by the CD unit). DONE
Fine,.............
BTW. I emailed MSD the same question and they were clueless. Some tech support.
ROFL, and you are surprised at that???????
If its not some Detroit iron, those guys know nothing.
Steve Weiner
Rennsport Systems
Portland, Oregon
503.244.0990
porsche@rennsportsystems.com
#22
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DDD...I actually had Prototech replace the 1.3 bar spring with a 1.0 for reliability when they replaced the turbo, and I still have insane HP (for me). The car dyno'd at 400 rwhp after the replacement.
My understanding is that somewhere from 18%-20% powerteain loss is the crank hp formula, my specific dyno sheet shows the following;
399.87rwhp x 18% = 71.88 -- Engine HP = 471.25 hp @ 10PSI boost
444.85rwtq x 18% = 80.07 -- Engine Tq = 524.94 @ 10PSI boost
constant A/F mix at a hair over 12
David Hart at Prototech encouraged me to go with a 1.0 bar spring for the same reasons the folks here are encouraging you. It's an expensive .2 bar if it becomes an issue.
GL with your car, post and engine bay shot for us.
My understanding is that somewhere from 18%-20% powerteain loss is the crank hp formula, my specific dyno sheet shows the following;
399.87rwhp x 18% = 71.88 -- Engine HP = 471.25 hp @ 10PSI boost
444.85rwtq x 18% = 80.07 -- Engine Tq = 524.94 @ 10PSI boost
constant A/F mix at a hair over 12
David Hart at Prototech encouraged me to go with a 1.0 bar spring for the same reasons the folks here are encouraging you. It's an expensive .2 bar if it becomes an issue.
GL with your car, post and engine bay shot for us.
#24
Thanks for all the great info, especially about the MSD!
I'll ask my new mechanic to drive the car and also to decide about how much boost I should run. My understanding is that the boost has been at 1.2 bar with a 'blow off' valve for a while, and the engine runs fairly rich. My mechanic may end up looking at the engine anyways, for the oil leak, so hopefully he will get an idea about the boost as well.
Thanks for the warning, nice to know that you guys don't want to see my car crap out!
I'll ask my new mechanic to drive the car and also to decide about how much boost I should run. My understanding is that the boost has been at 1.2 bar with a 'blow off' valve for a while, and the engine runs fairly rich. My mechanic may end up looking at the engine anyways, for the oil leak, so hopefully he will get an idea about the boost as well.
Thanks for the warning, nice to know that you guys don't want to see my car crap out!
#25
Coyote, no chance of an engine bay shot until my wife comes home this evening, if she feels like dong it. LOL. I am helpless on a computer.
I will say that you have a MUCH more impressive intercooler unit. What is it? Do you know how efficient it is, and did it come in that silver color? Are they expensive?
I will say that you have a MUCH more impressive intercooler unit. What is it? Do you know how efficient it is, and did it come in that silver color? Are they expensive?
#26
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The IC is a custom Prototech unit, the welds are perfect. I'm not familiar with the efficiency rating, but I can't get the gauge to show "hot" even on tack days. It has a front oil cooler as well as the IC and the wheel well oil cooler. It's aluminum so nevr-dull works wonders.I'm not sure you can even buy it stand alone. My car is a stage II Prototech mod with stage III fuel pump and injectors. Lots of 2nd and 3rd gear wheel spin on track days.
#27
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You can buy one from Todd at Protomotive for about 4k. Love the car, you are not Diabolos88 are you? I am just having a laugh at your expense some here will no doubt find it humorous. Really nice paint though... seriously
#28
I also get second gear wheelspin galore, especially as I approach redline. That is new to me! My musclecars always spun up under torque when I first shifted gears, but not approaching redline. That may be another reason to cut back my boost. I don't really want wheelspin as I approach redline.
I've not approached redline in third gear yet, but the car actually seems to accelerate as fiercely as second gear. I've not had enough road yet to safely go above 100, and I drive fairly conservatively as it is. I like acceleration more than high speed on the roads.
I've not approached redline in third gear yet, but the car actually seems to accelerate as fiercely as second gear. I've not had enough road yet to safely go above 100, and I drive fairly conservatively as it is. I like acceleration more than high speed on the roads.
#29
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DDD:
Sounds like you trust your mechanic's judgement, but whatever his skills are, unless he puts the car on the dyno, you don't know your A/F ratio at all rpms. Auxiliary fueling of CIS is well-known and you will finds lots of discussion on this forum about is efficacy.
The only way to be certain is to dyno the car with a wideband sensor that is measuring your exhaust composition. Going lean at 1.2 bar with 93 octane pump gas and the topic your threads will quickly turn to repairing burnt cylinders and cracked rings.
Sounds like you trust your mechanic's judgement, but whatever his skills are, unless he puts the car on the dyno, you don't know your A/F ratio at all rpms. Auxiliary fueling of CIS is well-known and you will finds lots of discussion on this forum about is efficacy.
The only way to be certain is to dyno the car with a wideband sensor that is measuring your exhaust composition. Going lean at 1.2 bar with 93 octane pump gas and the topic your threads will quickly turn to repairing burnt cylinders and cracked rings.
#30
JBH, Thanks! Like your car. I will most likely turn the boost down to 1 bar, since I don't need wheelspin. I'll see what the local shop can do for me.
I am still looking for the best shop around Richmond, VA. If anyone knows a good place, let me know.
I'm going to Luftecknic, because they are somewhat affiliated with the local PCA, and will give them a chance. But I would love to hear if anyone has a really good mechanic here in VA.
Schnele: I was going to let your comment go since I don't normally seek conflict over internet forums, but after reading the Diablo thread, I will just say that I am an adult and don't appreciate your 'joke'. Let's keep the sunny side up, shall we?
I am still looking for the best shop around Richmond, VA. If anyone knows a good place, let me know.
I'm going to Luftecknic, because they are somewhat affiliated with the local PCA, and will give them a chance. But I would love to hear if anyone has a really good mechanic here in VA.
Schnele: I was going to let your comment go since I don't normally seek conflict over internet forums, but after reading the Diablo thread, I will just say that I am an adult and don't appreciate your 'joke'. Let's keep the sunny side up, shall we?