A930Rocket

Now that I'm getting ready to start to reassemble my engine I have a few questions I hope you guys can help me with. First, I had my rods reconditioned with ARP bolts and I do not have a rod bolt stretch gauge.

1- Should I tighten the cap and rod with the ARPs (using the ARP lube) with the bearings to measure the ID? Or use the old rod bolts? Or do it w/o out the bearings? Can I use a digital vernier caliper (I have one) or do I need a bore micrometer (I don't have one)?

2- ARP says to tighten and loosen the rod nut and bolt 5 times to properly stretch the bolt. Do you do the final assembly on crank on the fifth or sixth?

3- Can I measure the crank with my digital vernier caliper or do I need a micrometer (better I know)?

4- In Wayne's book, he says to use red Loctite on the rod bolt threads. For accurate assembly, how can you use the ARP lube, but use the red loctite to keep the nut on there? I know... You can't use both.

I can run out and get a 2'' -3'' mic if needed, but a bore gauge might be harder to locate, especially for limited use.

Thanks guys.
Jim

Geoffrey

You can use the new rod bolts, but you will want to use the stretch method by either a stretch gauge or micrometer. Check the stretch against the torque, this is way you can tell that the rod bolt is no longer good. If it does not stretch enough by the torque value, then it has been stretched and is no longer good. Obviously yours are new so you should be fine.

You want to install the bearing in the rod and measure it with a dial bore gauge and measure the crank with a micrometer which will give you the bearing clearance. Alternatively, you can use plastigauge which will work fine. Do one or the other, or both, but do something to check the clearance. There have also been issues with the standard rod bearings being supplied in the last 2 years. A number of engines using the 3.2/3.3/964 rod bearings have been having issues with the shops I've been working with as with some other shops I've talked with. A few have gone to a custom made bearing to handle the racing stresses.

Dial/digital calipers are not good enough, use a micrometer or stretch gauge with a dial indicator.

You DO NOT want to use Red Loctite on the rod bolt, you need to use the supplied lube so the proper torque is achieved. Red Loctite is something Wayine invented and is completely unnecessary and potentially damaging. There are a few inaccuracies in Wayne's book.

sand_man

I wish I could be of help on this one, Rocket. Back when I was in the planning stages of my rebuild, I was set to purchase the stretch gauge for this...you know how much I love to buy those shiney new tools. However, after I discovered Performance Developments, I just let them install the rods onto my crank and use their stretch gauge for the ARP rod bolts. FWIW, Neil indicated that the stretch method really is ideal...sorry I couldn't be of more help.

A930Rocket

Thanks Guys,

Got a rod stretch bolt gauge coming tommorow and I'll pick up a mic (and hopefully a bore gauge)today. I have Plastigauge as back up.

Jim

sand_man

Jim, some info here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=307291

A930Rocket

I saw that. That kinda got me going on a few questions.

I was going to do it a vice, but they suggest while installing in on the crank. How can you check the bore check when you do it that way?