A few Turbo CIS Questions
#1
A few Turbo CIS Questions
3-4 weeks ago I got my 82`sc up and running with a 92` C2 3.3 CIS turbo engine. It runs great but im still looking to make sure I made no mistakes along the way. So I have a few questions for you guys.
#1 I bought both turbo fuel pumps used and are almost new. My shut down fuel psi drops below spec within 5 minutes. Spec calls for 20 minutes. Im experiencing a hard warm restart after 15 minutes or so. I pulled out my accumulator which was a 005 version and checked it. The diaphram is good. However I found out that the correct accumulator is a 031 and since I had a good one I put it in. Also used the larger S line that goes to the filter. Well the problem still persists. Next is to replace the check valve in the pump/s .
My question here is... Are both pumps supposed to have check valves or just one. Also which one if not both ?
#2 My engine came factory equiped with an air pump/air injection system which puts fresh air into the exhaust port.
I removed the entire system except for the air injectors/lines/and check valve. My question is will the check valve still allow air into the exhaust ports ? Should I find plugs ? Where can I get them ? The reason for concern is that between every shift (even when driving very easy) Im experiencing loud backfiring out the aftermarket fabspeed muffler. Funny thing is the problem just got much worse today after installing the correct turbo accumulator and a new f/filter .
#3 Which causes more backfire/flames when decelerating ? Is it rich or lean that makes it worse.
For what its worth my dead head fuel psi is 98 lbs and warm running psi is 65 psi . Both are correct spec for this engine.
#4 On a cold morning start my controlled fuel psi increases from about 45psi to 65psi just as it is specified in the book. It takes less than 2 minutes to get there. Is this too fast ? The book does not mention time frame for reference.
Also I recall reading that its a lower control head psi that gives a richer condition due to the metering plate moving easier. Is this correct info ?
#5 Lastly (for now) Im very interested to push the boost up to 1 bar. Im currently running it safely at .6 bar until all fuel issues are secured. I have a Andale Enrichment setup but think its kinda primitive and will add more room for problems. Should I list it on ebay and get the Imagine Auto fuel dist mod done ? I spoke with them today and its only $540. Has anyone used this service before ? Any input ?
Overall the car is running like a scalled dog with the stock 320hp in a 2400lbs car and a modified ratio shortened G50 5spd . For the record I just yesterday beat a friends 2006 ZO6 vette from 35-85mph by a car length. Yes he was embarrassed and said he had the A/C on.
Im looking to get another 75hp or so. Can this be done with 1 bar and proper fuel mixture ?
Sorry about all the questions. I hope some of you will take the time to offer me advice. More than one members response is always better. This is my first 911 turbo experience so its kinda new to me.
I should also add that my engine came from Brumos Porsche in fla
It was to be raced back in 92` but the 3.6t had just become available so it has sat on the shelve since. Its basically a complete brand new stock engine. It is labeled all over the engine and computers as "super car" Anyone know what that meant ? And I did run 2 bottles of techron through it already. In short the engine is stock and mechanically sound.
Thanks in advance
Kurt Williams
#1 I bought both turbo fuel pumps used and are almost new. My shut down fuel psi drops below spec within 5 minutes. Spec calls for 20 minutes. Im experiencing a hard warm restart after 15 minutes or so. I pulled out my accumulator which was a 005 version and checked it. The diaphram is good. However I found out that the correct accumulator is a 031 and since I had a good one I put it in. Also used the larger S line that goes to the filter. Well the problem still persists. Next is to replace the check valve in the pump/s .
My question here is... Are both pumps supposed to have check valves or just one. Also which one if not both ?
#2 My engine came factory equiped with an air pump/air injection system which puts fresh air into the exhaust port.
I removed the entire system except for the air injectors/lines/and check valve. My question is will the check valve still allow air into the exhaust ports ? Should I find plugs ? Where can I get them ? The reason for concern is that between every shift (even when driving very easy) Im experiencing loud backfiring out the aftermarket fabspeed muffler. Funny thing is the problem just got much worse today after installing the correct turbo accumulator and a new f/filter .
#3 Which causes more backfire/flames when decelerating ? Is it rich or lean that makes it worse.
For what its worth my dead head fuel psi is 98 lbs and warm running psi is 65 psi . Both are correct spec for this engine.
#4 On a cold morning start my controlled fuel psi increases from about 45psi to 65psi just as it is specified in the book. It takes less than 2 minutes to get there. Is this too fast ? The book does not mention time frame for reference.
Also I recall reading that its a lower control head psi that gives a richer condition due to the metering plate moving easier. Is this correct info ?
#5 Lastly (for now) Im very interested to push the boost up to 1 bar. Im currently running it safely at .6 bar until all fuel issues are secured. I have a Andale Enrichment setup but think its kinda primitive and will add more room for problems. Should I list it on ebay and get the Imagine Auto fuel dist mod done ? I spoke with them today and its only $540. Has anyone used this service before ? Any input ?
Overall the car is running like a scalled dog with the stock 320hp in a 2400lbs car and a modified ratio shortened G50 5spd . For the record I just yesterday beat a friends 2006 ZO6 vette from 35-85mph by a car length. Yes he was embarrassed and said he had the A/C on.
Im looking to get another 75hp or so. Can this be done with 1 bar and proper fuel mixture ?
Sorry about all the questions. I hope some of you will take the time to offer me advice. More than one members response is always better. This is my first 911 turbo experience so its kinda new to me.
I should also add that my engine came from Brumos Porsche in fla
It was to be raced back in 92` but the 3.6t had just become available so it has sat on the shelve since. Its basically a complete brand new stock engine. It is labeled all over the engine and computers as "super car" Anyone know what that meant ? And I did run 2 bottles of techron through it already. In short the engine is stock and mechanically sound.
Thanks in advance
Kurt Williams
#3
The front pump has the valve. The rear does not. If you have replaced the accumulator and not the valve then this explains the leak down. There could still be a few other issues, but more than likely it is the check valve at the front pump. The front pump has it on the pressure side in the banjo fitting. If you knock the cap off the end of the line you will see the threaded part is actually the check vale.
Check your AFRs. A lean condition will cause more of this. The system will not pump if the belt is off. If you have everything else out then the system is not going anything. You might also look at your decels valve. It can cause more popping, but for the most part the issue is normally in the AFRs.
Nope, this is normal. It is done internally with a winding. The time you are showing is fine. It is based on the temperature and the curve of the WUR.
I will let the guys running the head explain.
You will not be able to get 75HP by moving to a 1 bar. You need to do a few other things to achieve this. You will be close though.
Check your AFRs. A lean condition will cause more of this. The system will not pump if the belt is off. If you have everything else out then the system is not going anything. You might also look at your decels valve. It can cause more popping, but for the most part the issue is normally in the AFRs.
Nope, this is normal. It is done internally with a winding. The time you are showing is fine. It is based on the temperature and the curve of the WUR.
I will let the guys running the head explain.
You will not be able to get 75HP by moving to a 1 bar. You need to do a few other things to achieve this. You will be close though.
#4
Kurt - Stephen looks like he has you squared away on many of your questions.
To chime in, I removed my smog equipment and I plugged the air inection holes in the head by buying these hardeded hex head bolts and cutting them down with my Dremel and fitting them it...worked like a charm:
Air injection tube with my cut down bolt (bought from Ace Hardware):
Before:
Fitted \ After:
Hope that helps - Yasin
To chime in, I removed my smog equipment and I plugged the air inection holes in the head by buying these hardeded hex head bolts and cutting them down with my Dremel and fitting them it...worked like a charm:
Air injection tube with my cut down bolt (bought from Ace Hardware):
Before:
Fitted \ After:
Hope that helps - Yasin
#6
Thanks guys, since I will be having my fuel dist done I may as well get the plugs from Steven as well.
Steven the only thing hanging me up and not sending you the fuel dist now is down time. Your phone operator told me a few weeks. I then asked him if you have a core already and he said yes and it carries a $600 core charge. Thats not a problem. My problem is that mine is an exremely low mileage part and after thinking about it I would be more comfortable having mine done. Is there another answer ? Can I have the core sent to me first and then install my original once you return it. Im having too much fun driving the car and dont want to sideline it for that long. Also is there any external mods that will be worth bothering with yet ? Im thinking to trim off 200lbs from the car for the initial improvement. But getting it up to 400hp is my goal.
Oh yea is the factory rated hp (320) at the rear wheels or the crank ? Did I gain much by putting on a freeflow muffler and removing the steering and air pump ? Maybe im only 65hp away from 400 ?
BTW the decel valve is no longer with us. I removed it with the air pump system.
Kurt Williams
Steven the only thing hanging me up and not sending you the fuel dist now is down time. Your phone operator told me a few weeks. I then asked him if you have a core already and he said yes and it carries a $600 core charge. Thats not a problem. My problem is that mine is an exremely low mileage part and after thinking about it I would be more comfortable having mine done. Is there another answer ? Can I have the core sent to me first and then install my original once you return it. Im having too much fun driving the car and dont want to sideline it for that long. Also is there any external mods that will be worth bothering with yet ? Im thinking to trim off 200lbs from the car for the initial improvement. But getting it up to 400hp is my goal.
Oh yea is the factory rated hp (320) at the rear wheels or the crank ? Did I gain much by putting on a freeflow muffler and removing the steering and air pump ? Maybe im only 65hp away from 400 ?
BTW the decel valve is no longer with us. I removed it with the air pump system.
Kurt Williams
#7
Kurt,
I have no issue doing that, although it makes no difference. Every fuel head is machined and therofre new when you get it. Every part in the unit is also replaced. Just the outer castings are orginal. Either way I am fine with the swap. Drop me a call if you have a chance.
I have no issue doing that, although it makes no difference. Every fuel head is machined and therofre new when you get it. Every part in the unit is also replaced. Just the outer castings are orginal. Either way I am fine with the swap. Drop me a call if you have a chance.