After messing with a leaky oil cooler, I decided to replace it with the 993 (or maybe the 964) block off plate that adds an additional filter. I then had to add the -16 adapter and pipe extension from Smart Racing to hook to the S hose going to the oil tank. Not exactly bolt in for my 79, but straight forward and fairly easy even with the engine in the car.

In addition, I removed the headers, had them ceramic coated, and then wrapped them in graphite header tape. There are two advantages here: keep the heat in the headers and keep the exhaust velocity up to spool the turbo quicker. I can now hold my hand about an inch from the header with no problem. But the main benefit is that I seem to have improved spool time by about 200 rpm. I was getting 1 bar at 4100 rpm, now its about 3900 rpm according to my data logs. It also appears that it is taking less throttle to get turbo pressure (according to the TPS vs MAP) and pressure builds quicker (MAP vs RPM).

I read where exhaust gases drop at the rate of over 100 degrees per 12 inches of 1 5/8 in SS pipe at full throttle. With my equal length headers, I probably have over 24 in of travel to the turbo.

I also had the turbo ceramic coated too.

 

Cool. I have the same setup on my car.
Hopefully I'll have some cool pics before the end of the week of the latest mod I've made to my car.

Brian

 

Done,
Looks very neat. Pardon my ignorance but should'nt you be getting full boost earlier especially with the EFI conversion?

 

Looks great Don! That header wrap takes some patience to look good. What are the shops in your area charging to coat headers? The drop in under hood temps will carry over to several other areas such as air intake temps etc. They will cool down much faster as well. Sameer his turbo is a bit larger than a k27 so it takes a bit longer

Eric Hood

 

That oil cooler removal mod looks pretty cool. I haven't seen that done before. Aside from additional filtration, any other benefits or cons?

 

Don - That looks awesome - can you give some benefits of this install plus also where did you buy all the parts and pieces (and an approx. cost).

Thanks - Yasin

 

Here is what it cost me:

header coating - $200 (local)
header wrap with ties - $110 (local)
block off plate with 15 degree filter fixture - $395 (local P-shop)
Filter - $7 (local P shop)
-12 adapter - $90 (smart racing prod)
pipe extension - $75 (smart racing prod)

I removed the stock oil cooler because located on the end of the 4-5-6 cam is the cam sensor for full sequntial EFI. I did not need the oil cooler because I have two very large fender mounted coolers already. In fact, they work so well that any ambient temp below 70 degrees F the oil will not warm above 180 degrees F (and thats a bad thing - boil off moisture). I don't think I would recommend this mod if you do not have additional (significant) cooling elsewhere.

I removed the guts to the stock oil thermostat to ensure circulation through the new filter, and tapped a 3/8NPT hole in the top of the thermostat so I can get reliable oil temp for the ECU.

You also have to block off the cooling channel in the engine shroud to ensure air supplied by the fan does not take the path of least resistance (by-passing and overheating your new cylinders). Originally, part of the fan's output was used to cool the engine oil cooler. The mod was pretty easy as all I did was add some sheet metal to the shroud.

Now that the engine has about 2000 miles on it, I changed to Mobil 1 15w-50. The GT35r turbo I am using has a cooling jacket that was built for water cooling. I left the cooling ports open in case I can get some circulation (albeit small circulation but better than blocking them off). I am now running a combination stock oil ine with a -6 extention to the turbo. I am using the billet oil scavenge pump so I won't overwelm the bearing seals and smoke the turbo. And yes, I am still using the stock check-ball. Using synthetic in these motors is pretty important to me, no mater how often you change the conventional oil.

This turbo does not spool as quickly as you might think for two reasons (maybe three, actually): 1. the super C2 cam I am using is not a low end cam - its made for mid to high end power, 2. I timed the cam on the low side (retarded the timing) to get power past 6200 rpm, therefore hurting the low end spool, and 3. I might not have the EFI tuned as well as possible to take advantage of a ball-bearing turbo. The biggest difference with the BB GT35 is how quickly it will deliver a punch once you get some boost. If I load the engine in 3rd gear at about 3800 rpm, you better be holding on. If I set the rear helper springs to stiffen the ride, I can smoke the tires at a rolling start (again, about 3800 rpm) in first - that's just flooring the pedal, no clutch work. Once I back off the rear springs and let the weight transfer a bit, I can not smoke the tires but you better be ready to shift - it is unreal fast in first, real fast in second. Acceleration is nearly violent in all gears. Sorry - rambling....

 

So Don you went from 4400 RPM (old T61) to 4100 GT35R to 3900 with the ceramic coating and wrap.. Pretty good results... You should run oil through the water cooling ports.

 

I have been considering doing the ceramic coating & wrap. Do you think this will impact longevity of the headers at all? Where did you get the wrap & ties?

 

I had B&B headers that were stainless that I wrapped, but they really discolored - almost to the point of looking like mild steel. That's why I coated these headers prior to wrapping. I have no idea if the steel degraded or not. I tend to beleive nothing happened other than the color. I'm pretty happy with the difference already.

I bought the wrap at Barnett Performance here in Atlanta. You can get it at Summit or Jegs too. My headers took over 50ft of wrap. The ties are separate.

 

Dumb question..

They coat the inside and outside don't they? How woud this work with GHLs that have the heater boxes?

 

You never want to ceramic coat the inside of your header/heat exchangers. You will damage your turbine wheel. I repair a turbo a month from the damage that occurs. The reason is that there is no physical method to get into all of the nooks and deviations in collectors to get a solid surface to ceramic coat. Then when the headers get up to temp the ceramic blister and flakes off, similar to a bad paint job. The ceramic will impact the turbine wheel. With a wheel that is turning over 125K and higher, it doesn't take much to knock them out of balance and the bearing go away and you lose your turbocharger..

 

The results were from my datalog, so I'm taking that as a positive indication.

Is there a kit out there for the oil cooling, or do I head back to the hose store for a special fitting?

 

No kit.. Hydraulic hose/fitting store..