Where is WUR fuel pin?
#16
Drifting
Originally Posted by Brent 930
Sand, short answer is all of those components should be kept. All you need is a CIS tester and a mityvac (shop book would be nice) to do it yourself. Some people have elimated the AAR, but I wouldn't, but go ahead and see for yourself.
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
My aar broke so I just took it off. ain't do'n anything for me being a race car. when you start you'll need to keep your foot on the gas for a minute or so until it warms up a little.
#18
Yeah, on a cold start your idle would go pretty low or even stall if you didn't have your foot on it. I could see not having one on track car. Then again, one is always looking to get rid of stuff with a track car
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Brent, Below is top and bottom view of WUR. What am I knocking down? That brass looking cup on the bottom? Based on gasket I see, do I need to take those two plates on the bottom apart?
Last edited by JoeMag; 12-18-2012 at 01:14 PM.
#20
Yeah, it might seem tough to do at first but they come apart, just be careful not to mess up the gasket. Knock the brass pem down and you will feel when it won't go any further, just be careful. It won't move but a 1-2 mm but that is all you will need. Put it back together and check the fuel pressures to make sure everything is still good for cold and warm. Then check the enrichment for around 2.4 bar. This should lower your AFR by around .5.
Goodluck
Goodluck
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok. Got that thing popped apart. Didn't realize there was a spring in there -- shot it across the room when I seperated.
The arrow is pointing to the correct part to push (knock) down, correct? Looks like I can move it 2.5mm down. Currently when the thing is assembled it only moves about 1mm when boost is applied to it so it will have much greater movement capability after.
The arrow is pointing to the correct part to push (knock) down, correct? Looks like I can move it 2.5mm down. Currently when the thing is assembled it only moves about 1mm when boost is applied to it so it will have much greater movement capability after.
Last edited by JoeMag; 12-18-2012 at 01:14 PM.
#23
Brent,
Not to thread hijack, but how do the attached AFR curves look? This is the result of a summers worth of experimentation.
Joe,
What did your previous AFR curves look like?
Win
Not to thread hijack, but how do the attached AFR curves look? This is the result of a summers worth of experimentation.
Joe,
What did your previous AFR curves look like?
Win
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
...rebuilding engine now, so I'm not going to be able to get immediate results. I just wish I could find someone who has actually had an Andial FE and had measured on boost control pressure with it off and on the different settings of Andial.
I'll dig up some AF curves from my innovate...
I'll dig up some AF curves from my innovate...
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Here's an AF plot and boost from about 4 runs in 3rd gear on same part of track. Starts at 5k because that is drop I have from 2nd. graph doesn't go all the way to 6.8 because you catch point just past and AF is kind of goofy.
Last edited by JoeMag; 12-18-2012 at 01:14 PM.
#27
Thanks guys,
I have the high AFR about where I want it, I need to run a few logs currently on a nice day and see where they are in the cold weather. My PEM was up about 2mm and I set it down about 1mm for the curves shown.
Brent,
I want to try your RPM switch mod, and can see how it all works, but who's solenoid valve did you use and where did you get it? That dip to about 9.8 AFR is fine if I floor it, but if I roll into boost slowly I get a few misfires, so I want to smooth it out.
I am slowly building up my parts collection for an EFI conversion, but I want to optimize my CIS, then dyno for a baseline.
Thanks again, Win
I have the high AFR about where I want it, I need to run a few logs currently on a nice day and see where they are in the cold weather. My PEM was up about 2mm and I set it down about 1mm for the curves shown.
Brent,
I want to try your RPM switch mod, and can see how it all works, but who's solenoid valve did you use and where did you get it? That dip to about 9.8 AFR is fine if I floor it, but if I roll into boost slowly I get a few misfires, so I want to smooth it out.
I am slowly building up my parts collection for an EFI conversion, but I want to optimize my CIS, then dyno for a baseline.
Thanks again, Win
#28
The solenoid (NC) was used with the A/C system to bypass air around the AAV. It came with the car and I just used it for timing the enrichment. You will start to lose power below 11:1 in the low rpm range so leveling the AF curve will be good. The system I setup and tuned in conjunction with the WUR really worked.
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
..regarding the valve, I went a slightly different route and went with a industrial 12v valve that is normally open. went the NO route just in case something failed i would over enrich. actually purchased the valve off some guy on ebay.
#30
Good point Joe, a NO valve would be a little safer. I need to search a little, I bet McMaster-Carr has decent one.
A thought I had awhile back was to use a cheap Megasquirt and a MAP sensor to control the stock frequency valve, but nobody could tell me the range of adjustment the frequency valve allows. If it had the range, you could probably plug off the enrichment line entirely.
Another thought I just had, you could use the MegaSquirt and MAP to control the solenoid, if you could find a solenoid with good durability that would handle the duty cycle.
Win
A thought I had awhile back was to use a cheap Megasquirt and a MAP sensor to control the stock frequency valve, but nobody could tell me the range of adjustment the frequency valve allows. If it had the range, you could probably plug off the enrichment line entirely.
Another thought I just had, you could use the MegaSquirt and MAP to control the solenoid, if you could find a solenoid with good durability that would handle the duty cycle.
Win