Miles965uk

im thinking of buying the HFS from you guys but also I am going to go to efi soon as well- is there any benifit of buying the the HFS -2 (only for efi) vs the S if I am never ever going to shoot above 550HP? is it just a bigger HFS? so would spoil later but give more air?

cheers

Kevin

Depends on what heat exchangers you use. If they have a crappy design for the wastegate circuit. You will run into issues.. I know that GHL has solved this issue. As the name implies, the turbo is a high flow design.. There is alot of air that needs to be dumped to maintain .7bars - 1bar.. Stepping up to a Tial 46 is a good idea..

Kevin

Miles the HF turbochargers retain there value.. Buy the Hyflow 'S" and run it.. If you need more step up to the Hyflow 2 at a later point.. You missing out by waiting..

SoCal Mike

Miles,

"Never ever"?

Sameer

Miles,
If your going EFI, go for their latest HF2 so even if you need more power next time, the HF2 will still be able to flow enough air for the extra power.

bogey1

Kevin, when did GHL solve the problems with flow? I keep hearing the B&B is a much better header for our modified cars, even if the build quality is not there. FWIW, the HF has been a great addition to the car, on and off the track. Easier to get on the throttle coming out of the turns, and much better on long straights as it does not run out of steam. While i ahve no dyno's to support before/after, my gut tells me it flows better (top end) than a quick spool k29 from Powerhaus. No questions its a better turbo overall.

Miles965uk

err well..... probably not! The thing is my next 100HP is going to be 'reasonably' inexpensive as i get the benefit of efi as well. Onwards from there it means dropping the engine and i would probs go twin as well and go all the way. So what im gathering is its probs best to get the S and then i can just wack it on straight away and enjoy the benefits of it over my K29.

Oh yea ive got a B&B as well.. i second what makes the difference between the headers GHL vs B&B- does it make that much difference for us?

cobalt

A testament to the HF turbo.

Yesterday I spent the day at the local PCA autocross. There was a high speed section that went from a 220 degree left hander to a hard 180 degree right hander to an even tighter 240 degree left hander. I had to stomp on the brakes entering the first turn after a long high speed slalom and stomp on it to carry the speed through and keep the boost on. The HF allowed me to play with the throttle spinning the rear wheels just enough to slide the back end around without spinning. I am positive that if I had the stock turbo in the car I would have spun every time. I thought I was going to have problems with the turbo on this corse but I was pleasantly surprised to see that it responded almost the same as the big V8 in the GTS.

Me having fun entering the left hander.

Kevin

From my understanding, from other shops that have dyno'd the two systems, the B&B does make more power, however, there is no support if you have a failure of that system. GHL has stood up from what I've been told and fixed there system. They have also "DO" have a wastegate mod or fix for the Hyflow..

This brings the next questions, as of late I have seen a few turbochargers that have been sent in that have wiped turbine wheels, FOD damage. You start to ask the questions and they have welded the collectors of there headers.. Folks you must use nitrogen to purge the inside of the headers if you weld on the outside. The slag that builds up will go directly into the turbo. IF the system is over 3 years, I'd just trash can them. The stainless will just crack outside of the new weld.. You will be chasing the welds for years, with great risk to the turbine wheel.

cobalt

Must it be Nitrogen or will any inert gas do? It is so true about the B&B's there is no customer support whatsoever. On my previous car I was constantly welding the system back together. It would blow apart for no reason. B&B quality is not all that BIlly Boat claims it to be. When I spoke to Mr. Boat about the problems I was having he was insulting to say the least. The current headers I have keep blowing the #3 gasket because the system was never manufactured properly. It has become annoying but I don't want to buy an entire new system.

Kevin

Nitrogen...

Miles965uk

hey kevin is there any data or rolling roads of this new turbo vs without it... just would be good to see.

SoCal Mike

I use argon to backpurge with my tig set-up as was recommended by my welding house to prevent the "sugaring" effect. The other problem is that really our headers should be made out of 321 not the commonly used 304. I have a set of Powerhaus headers that are supposedly made of 321 but from their lack of longevity and propensity to crack I would say they were made of 304. The tough part is you really can't be sure what they are made of. With 321 twice the material cost, I think there is some fibbing going on

Miles, I'm with you on the hp level. I really don't want to deal with an unstreetable clutch.

Jastx

I'm new to living with a turbo, my car is a stock 1989.

I want to keep the car basically original. I don't need to increase power, I don't want to change the headers. Within these constraints are there changes that would improve the speed at which the turbo spools to get to the stock level of power -- just to make it an improved driving experience?

What would be the simplest, least invasive, most bang for the buck changes for a totally stock car? For example, would changing to an HF turbo as the ONLY change make an improvement in how the power is delivered?

In what order should incremental changes be made, or if keeping stock headers, is keeping everything else stock the only choice?

Kevin

John, as we have talked, the only way that you are going to lower the way your engine spools, dollar for dollar and least invasive is to replace you restrictive stock headers.. You can save a few buck and still keep your K27..

To lower your spool, you need to change your headers.. There has been numerous threads about this. Take the old stuff off and box it away.. Your stock .7bar spring will keep your HP in check..