Well I figured this might by a worthy post, I took some pics of my stock 3LDZ turbo compared to my new K27-7200 today.

Both turbos side by side at first glance look almost identical but when you look at the housings closer you can see why the K27-7200 flows more cfm than the 3LDZ

You can see the compressor side is significantly larger on the K27-7200 than the stock 3LDZ and the turbine housing is larger through its entire diameter. I have written down widths in mm as a reference.

Mounting the K27 will be easy and will require that I take a hack-saw to the pipe that connects the turbo to the IC and then use a silicone 2" coupling and two T-Bar clamps.

K27-7200 on the left, 3LDZ on the right:





Notice the difference in widths here written with a Sharpie and in millimeters, 3LDZ on left, K27-7200 on the right:






Hope that helps anyone for future and a good reference.
Yasin

 

Even if you had equal sizes on everything its the comprssor efficiency that the 7200 brings to the table. The 3LDZ is like spinning a brick..

 

why would you have to take a hack saw to it at all?

I replaced my 3LDC with a K27-7200 without doing a thing. it fit in perfectly, well almost. I was unable to use the flange mount that fits between the turbo and cat. I've been told that this end of the turbo should be milled down about 1/4" so the flange can be properly used to take the weight off the e-system. when I change out for emissions testing next year, I'll probably do that.
otherwise, once the the turbo compressor side was mounted to the e-pipe... IC down-pipe and up-pipe aligned OK and all went in without incident.
in fact, even the by-pass pipe and original muffler fit in where they should go. I still was able to use the original muffler and straps. the muffler tip even comes out properly from the lower bumper valance too.

 

If you would have asked someone on Rennlist. You don't have to cut anything. We make a adapter flange that fits on the pressure side of the compressor housing and it fit into the intercooler just for this problem..

 

I would weld the line back up and use an adapter. The line you cut is like 300+ and harder to get. The other issue is you may have problems with movement and the line popping off by using a hose. PM if you need an adapter.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys, I will not be cutting up that stock pipe as I previously mentioned but rather having a new piece made in thin walled light weight aluminum instead.

Thanks - Yasin