930 Slantnose 1985, help me buy my first Porsche
#31
Hi *****
My car too had not had much excersize when I bought it. It had only had 6700 miles on a complete engine rebuild in 6 years. I drove home from Florida to Minnesota (1600 miles) without a hick up and that certainly helped blow out some cob webs.
I am a strong proponent of the TECHRON and per Dave's advise I would do just as he recommends. I also replaced the stock ignition wires with a new set of MAGNECOR units and replaced the Rotor, cap and plugs (I used Bosch Silver W4CS plugs, or W3CS are a little colder) and when I did that I noticed that it defintiely idled and ran smoother. I also adjusted the valves which seemed to have a positive effect as well. I also rebuilt the pedal cluster bushings, the shift coupler (with bronze bushings) ang generally went through and adjusted clutch cables, free play, bled the brakes (ATE Super Blue), etc. and she runs perfectly now.
You can do the same and I am sure will be pleased. If you have time and patience a good set of tools and work space you can easily do the work or find a good mechanic and have a nice wad of cash you can get it tuned like a fine swiss watch (which is what you have there in automotive form). I would recommend buying Bruce Anderson's book, as well as Wayne Dempsey's two volumes (101 Projects for your Porsche and the one on rebuilding the engine specifically).
I have taken extensive pictures of all of the work that I did (step by step photos so that I would remember how to put it back together) and would be happy to share you or any of the members here. Also there is a great engine support platform that attaches to a typical floor jack that is wonderful for taking out the engine and replacing it (turns the job into a truly safe and tip free method for a 1 man removal process, about $160 US) and I have pictures of that entire process as well (I have included a few samples FYI). So feel free to ask.
Most of the other members of this forum have far more experience than I with these cars and will definitely give more good advise than you can handle. Stephen at Rennsport and Stephen at Imagine Auto really know their stuff (as do many others). But my point is that I am a good mechanic and feel completely comfortable working on my car with the references mentioned earlier and the great advise avaialble here on Rennlist.
Good luck and best regards!
Tom
I am a strong proponent of the TECHRON and per Dave's advise I would do just as he recommends. I also replaced the stock ignition wires with a new set of MAGNECOR units and replaced the Rotor, cap and plugs (I used Bosch Silver W4CS plugs, or W3CS are a little colder) and when I did that I noticed that it defintiely idled and ran smoother. I also adjusted the valves which seemed to have a positive effect as well. I also rebuilt the pedal cluster bushings, the shift coupler (with bronze bushings) ang generally went through and adjusted clutch cables, free play, bled the brakes (ATE Super Blue), etc. and she runs perfectly now.
You can do the same and I am sure will be pleased. If you have time and patience a good set of tools and work space you can easily do the work or find a good mechanic and have a nice wad of cash you can get it tuned like a fine swiss watch (which is what you have there in automotive form). I would recommend buying Bruce Anderson's book, as well as Wayne Dempsey's two volumes (101 Projects for your Porsche and the one on rebuilding the engine specifically).
I have taken extensive pictures of all of the work that I did (step by step photos so that I would remember how to put it back together) and would be happy to share you or any of the members here. Also there is a great engine support platform that attaches to a typical floor jack that is wonderful for taking out the engine and replacing it (turns the job into a truly safe and tip free method for a 1 man removal process, about $160 US) and I have pictures of that entire process as well (I have included a few samples FYI). So feel free to ask.
Most of the other members of this forum have far more experience than I with these cars and will definitely give more good advise than you can handle. Stephen at Rennsport and Stephen at Imagine Auto really know their stuff (as do many others). But my point is that I am a good mechanic and feel completely comfortable working on my car with the references mentioned earlier and the great advise avaialble here on Rennlist.
Good luck and best regards!
Tom
#34
Originally Posted by ENGINEERMAN
My car too
(OMISSIS)
Good luck and best regards!
Tom
(OMISSIS)
Good luck and best regards!
Tom
there is plenty of sound advice in your post, thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
That engine platform gizmo looks DIY friendly, sensibly designed, well finished and at 160$ retail a piece of garage tooling the majority of addicts should be offered on father's day. M.I.a. where from?
As for books I'd like to build in time a basic library of workshop manuals to cover the 911 Turbo car, the 930/66S engine, the turbo system, the petrol injection...
About the latter, turn of the century I have dedicated business energies to transforming bike aspirated engines in turbo, getting out of 1.3 litres engines reliable powers of about of 300 bhp and at a moderate boost. This is product line I was forced to give up as contemporarily Big Brother put a screw on radars, fines, permit suspensions, side of the road vehicle seizures for riding at 30 mph above the limit, so that selling extra power in the part of a legitimate business became suddenly a criminal offence, worse than providing hard drugs or weaponry.
In the process I learnt that modern Electronic Fuel Injection technology can do marvels and, though I do not know the first thing about the system installed on the 930/66S engine, considering its birth date I presume it should be crude.
My question is whether somebody developed EFI conversions for the 930/66S power plant and what other addicts think of them.
Remaining on the subject of power plants, that one showing in the last pic of your Strosek is rather peculiar. Starting from the top I see ambient sensors, air intake, feed port, the mechanical arrangement looks that of a flat twin which though should be installed lower, to enable closing the lid.
Put perhaps you found that out for yourself...
Eh, eh, eh!!!
addict and enjoy your week end, whether you chosen to spend it over, under or within your Strosek!
*****
#35
Originally Posted by willyexner
Dave,
advice coming from an old fox like you is much appreciated...
This time the seller workshop (they are good at Porsches, race tuning and all that) will take care of the ****, but I guess there will be a next time and then I'll apply your technology...
Sorry to read that your Ducati left the stable.
Mine is still here, she's an iron gate on bumpy roads but on a track she is almost capable of anything or, at least,
she deserves a better pilot than yours truly...
*****
advice coming from an old fox like you is much appreciated...
This time the seller workshop (they are good at Porsches, race tuning and all that) will take care of the ****, but I guess there will be a next time and then I'll apply your technology...
Sorry to read that your Ducati left the stable.
Mine is still here, she's an iron gate on bumpy roads but on a track she is almost capable of anything or, at least,
she deserves a better pilot than yours truly...
*****
Yes, the Ducati is gone....but not forgotten. I have never driven a machine that so clearly exceeded my limits. It was a machine that took some muscle and a little courage to hit the apex, but powering out is such a rush!!! Never driven a machine that was so rock stable through a corner. Amazing. That kind of changed when an on-coming car made a left turn in front of me...had to lay it down. Being somewhat out of practice on this maneuver , I forgot to let go of the grips and landed somewhat hard on my right hip. Nothing broken, but mentally I was not the same. Approached every intersection with trepidation and that is not an enjoyable way to be riding. Still miss the machine....always will.
Concerning EFI, Stephan Kaspar, of Imagine Auto has set up an excellent web site for turbo enthusiasts. (www.turbo911.com) He has set up an EFI forum and also will be releasing an EFI conversion kit for the venerable 930 engine. The sky appears to be the limit, not to mention wallet, with 600BHP easily obtainable. There is another web site dedicated solely to EFI, http://www.efi101.com. There you can find alternatives to every ECU out there.
Happy riding and remember....."Friends don't let friends early apex!"
#36
Missing info
Hi *****:
Sorry that it's taken so long to respond...
Paul Wilding can help you out. Go to the Ebay link below and look at the item number listed. The item is not the hoist tool but I trust you can handle it from there. He is a good guy and honest. Don't qoute me on the price. He has 2 models, one for the engines with Sump Plates and newer ones like my 84 block.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
4555336685
It seems like many people on this site is full of engineering types. I worked with my father for many years designing and building Free-Piston engine/compressors.
So did you end up buying the car? Just curious.
Take care and if you more detailed pic of the disassembly, just ask!
Sorry that it's taken so long to respond...
Paul Wilding can help you out. Go to the Ebay link below and look at the item number listed. The item is not the hoist tool but I trust you can handle it from there. He is a good guy and honest. Don't qoute me on the price. He has 2 models, one for the engines with Sump Plates and newer ones like my 84 block.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
4555336685
It seems like many people on this site is full of engineering types. I worked with my father for many years designing and building Free-Piston engine/compressors.
So did you end up buying the car? Just curious.
Take care and if you more detailed pic of the disassembly, just ask!
#37
Originally Posted by WERK-I
*****,
Yes, the Ducati is gone....but not forgotten. I have never driven a machine that so clearly exceeded my limits. ! [omissis...]
Yes, the Ducati is gone....but not forgotten. I have never driven a machine that so clearly exceeded my limits. ! [omissis...]
I have too been lately involved in a forced landing. That was Sunday May 29, I was descending a mountain pass and, whilst exiting at a very low speed a LH hairpin I found myself facing a bus at a distance of about ten yards, the driver, oblivious of my presence, having come out of an ascending line of vehicles for negotiating the corner.
Having the mountain on my right, a line of cars on my left and the bus in front I decided I could only go for the brakes well aware that, being on an angle still, the end result was certain. Gladly, because my speed was low, I managed to to fall and stop a couple of yards before being run over.
Obviously I also managed to act as a cushion, so that neither the tarmac nor the Ducati should be scratched, which I managed, fracturing meantime the left collarbone and the 7th and 8th ribs. They say it is painful, I can confirm it is! Specially when they make me laugh... eh, eh, eh!
Which did not stop me five days later to drive 900 miles to go inspect the fancy lady! She is an excellent 930 SE having covered 33k miles only and next week she'll be part of the stable.
My first Porsche.
Prosit!
Originally Posted by WERK-I
Concerning EFI, Stephan Kaspar, of Imagine Auto has set up an excellent web site for turbo enthusiasts. (www.turbo911.com) He has set up an EFI forum and also will be releasing an EFI conversion kit for the venerable 930 engine. The sky appears to be the limit, not to mention wallet, with 600BHP easily obtainable. There is another web site dedicated solely to EFI, http://www.efi101.com. There you can find alternatives to every ECU out there. Happy riding and remember....."Friends don't let friends early apex!"
Thanks!
My wife is a professional watercolorist and whenever possible she flies over to the states for attending training seminars... which brings her much.
I'd love one day to be able to do the same with the EFI University courses. Trouble with me is that from the angle of vital statistics I am presumed 69, though I live and act as I was 35 and for what is technology I have the curiosity of a teenager. Only way to get rif of your truly is shoot him down...
I red somewhere once when I was a kid that: "The propellant which makes the Earth spin around its axle at the rate of 15 degrees an hour is human curiosity."
Nice tense, isn't it?
*****
#38
Originally Posted by willyexner
Both web addresses that you kindly provided are relevant and definitely of future use.
I forgot, to offer a small piece of reciprocity in return.
The links below could be for the average driver a valid address for being taken by the hand on learning many aspects of vehicle and engine maintenance and tuning. Cars and also bikes.
http://www.users.bigpond.com/jack_stands/
The link below covering specifically Electronic Fuel Injection
http://www.users.bigpond.com/jack_st..._repair_1.html
Opinions?
*****
#39
Originally Posted by ENGINEERMAN
Hi *****:
Sorry that it's taken so long to respond...
Paul Wilding can help you out. Go to the Ebay link below and look at the item number listed. The item is not the hoist tool but I trust you can handle it from there. He is a good guy and honest. Don't qoute me on the price. He has 2 models, one for the engines with Sump Plates and newer ones like my 84 block.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
4555336685
It seems like many people on this site is full of engineering types. I worked with my father for many years designing and building Free-Piston engine/compressors.
So did you end up buying the car? Just curious.
Take care and if you more detailed pic of the disassembly, just ask!
Sorry that it's taken so long to respond...
Paul Wilding can help you out. Go to the Ebay link below and look at the item number listed. The item is not the hoist tool but I trust you can handle it from there. He is a good guy and honest. Don't qoute me on the price. He has 2 models, one for the engines with Sump Plates and newer ones like my 84 block.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
4555336685
It seems like many people on this site is full of engineering types. I worked with my father for many years designing and building Free-Piston engine/compressors.
So did you end up buying the car? Just curious.
Take care and if you more detailed pic of the disassembly, just ask!
I’ll definitely make use of Paul Wilding's advice once I settled the fancy lady in her new bedroom and know in detail what her bottom is like.
I mean the bottom of her engine, eh, eh, eh!
Yes, I also presume that a vast majority of the gung-ho inhabiting this community live and breathe automotive.
Which is why I joined...
Otherwise they would not embark on complex winter projects like some we see or spend their week end in engine booths pretending they are Porsche engines.
Tell me please, when you do that, do you also simulate engine noises?
Forgive my mediocre humor, I happen to be a serious person who finds it hard to take himself seriously.
My compliments for what you did with your father. I was born in a garage and my father was the first responsible for my addiction. What else was there to talk around the dinner table if not cars and engines? To the point that mum was sometimes so fed up to suggest that perhaps under the cranial cap we did not house brains but pistons.
To answer your legitimate curiosity, YES, I inspected her and decided she is a precious old cut gem.
So that next Wednesday I go collect.
To be followed...
*****
PS
The strakes on the door are taken from a Gemballa period tuning idea. Click to link to the pic
Opinion:
In terms of looks Gemballa has a tendency to overdeliver.
As much as I dislike the height of those opening of the Gemballa rear wing vents, too high and spoiling the looks of the entire car rear wings, I like the balanced looks of the three strakes added on the door of my fancy lady.
IMHO, by prolonging the motive of the stock air vent strakes they lower the silhouette of the whole car side.
Thus my conclusion is that they are there to stay and I shall leave things exactly as the original owner thought right, back in the mid 80ties.
#40
Hi *****
You have a real beauty there!! I'm sure you will love owning and driving her as well!
Attached are a couple of pics of the Strosek's stablemates. I have seriously caught the Porsche bug, but what can you say about a German who's dad has consulted for Porsche and taken his son to the factory as a kid! It was inevitable. The only thing getting in the way was the income to be able to afford it! The red 944 Turbo is mine and the black one is my son's (he too has the bug... like father like son)!
I still love my 81 RX-7. I have owner her since new and it is one of the most fun cars that I have ever driven.
Take care and good luck with your new prize!
Attached are a couple of pics of the Strosek's stablemates. I have seriously caught the Porsche bug, but what can you say about a German who's dad has consulted for Porsche and taken his son to the factory as a kid! It was inevitable. The only thing getting in the way was the income to be able to afford it! The red 944 Turbo is mine and the black one is my son's (he too has the bug... like father like son)!
I still love my 81 RX-7. I have owner her since new and it is one of the most fun cars that I have ever driven.
Take care and good luck with your new prize!
#42
Hi Sameer
I have not worked with either PowerHaus or Vision Motorsports. I have done a few things to them (the cars) and have consulted A LOT with Dave Lindsey of Lindsey Racing (www.lindseyracing.com). He is very helpful and willing to take the scientific approach to developing these cars. The 944 Turbo is his specialty and Mike is brother is the 911 specialist. I find that they do their own development based on testing to produce their part offerings (many of which are produced by them). Their prices are also very reasonable and the quality is first rate! If you want a one stop shop for the 944 or 911 (especially the 944) they are it. That is not to minimize PH or VR, I'm sure that they are also first rate, I can only speak for Dave & Mike who REALLLY know their stuff on these cars specifically.
The black one is basically stock with the exception of a LR Boost Enhancer, a set of chips and a hollowed out Cat. It had 74,000 miles on it when I bought it from only the second owner in Phoenix and it was cherry inside and out. It is fast, I had it going 155 mph into a 20 mph head wind and it was still accelerating when I ran out of road (it was rock solid at that speed and just sucked itself down to the road). My son has now purchased it from me and has put Koni Yellows all the way around and some 250 lb springs. It is very well balanced and is a joy to drive on the street or on DE days.
The red one has a roll cage inside (behind the seats), Recarro seats, short shift kit, LSD, 3" exhaust all the way back (no cat), k27 Turbo (Jet Hot coated), LR Polished Hard Pipes, LR Fuel Rail (It is beautiful), SK Fuel Pressure regulator, Huntley Racing MAF, LINK engine management piggyback system (anyone in Minneapolis area know how to work with the Link system (I am clueless and can't seem to make it function properly), LR Fuel Air Ratio/Duty Cycle meter, Blow off valve, Boost enhancer, Short shift kit, Koni's all around, LR BIG RED front brake kit, 18" wheels with 285 Bridgestone S02's on the rear (hooks up really well). It has a killer Blaupunkt stereo with sub's & all the goodies. Luckily the previous owner spent most of the money to build it up and I was the lucky recipient of another 10 cent on the dollar find! I am still sorting out the red one a little but it is fast like the black one but with more power (and it attracts cops like crazy!).
They are undoubtedly the best high performance car out there that I have ever found for the money (you can own one for about 1/3 the cost of a 911 and we could argue over which is the most fun to drive. I think that my Strosek is a little faster in a straight line but not till about 80 MPH and the 944 is an easier car to drive at the limits. The Strosek feels more like a go-cart though.
I can't say that one is my favorite except maybe for the RX-7, my first love and one hell of a car in it's own rite. One year when I was autocrossing a lot, I never took less than 2nd place with it (a lot of that was the car ha ha). That got me an invitation to Brainerd for the PCA late season event so that they could whup on me on the big track, because no one could even come close to keeping up on an autocross course. The RX-7 has the full RACING BEAT treatment.
I also have a 1995 Miata that has the full Racing Beat treatment and that car currently holds the world record for fastest slalom time (not my car, theirs, but mine has all the same mods). It is even more nimble than the RX-7 but not quite as fast.
At any rate the Porshes are incomparible in their combination of POWER, handling and road manners (not to mention sex appeal). I literally get stopped quite frequently in both the Red one and the Strosek (the black one is more understated). The red one is just drop dead beautiful in real life. The wheels really make it stand out.
I can send you more pic's if you want.
Take care!
Tom
The black one is basically stock with the exception of a LR Boost Enhancer, a set of chips and a hollowed out Cat. It had 74,000 miles on it when I bought it from only the second owner in Phoenix and it was cherry inside and out. It is fast, I had it going 155 mph into a 20 mph head wind and it was still accelerating when I ran out of road (it was rock solid at that speed and just sucked itself down to the road). My son has now purchased it from me and has put Koni Yellows all the way around and some 250 lb springs. It is very well balanced and is a joy to drive on the street or on DE days.
The red one has a roll cage inside (behind the seats), Recarro seats, short shift kit, LSD, 3" exhaust all the way back (no cat), k27 Turbo (Jet Hot coated), LR Polished Hard Pipes, LR Fuel Rail (It is beautiful), SK Fuel Pressure regulator, Huntley Racing MAF, LINK engine management piggyback system (anyone in Minneapolis area know how to work with the Link system (I am clueless and can't seem to make it function properly), LR Fuel Air Ratio/Duty Cycle meter, Blow off valve, Boost enhancer, Short shift kit, Koni's all around, LR BIG RED front brake kit, 18" wheels with 285 Bridgestone S02's on the rear (hooks up really well). It has a killer Blaupunkt stereo with sub's & all the goodies. Luckily the previous owner spent most of the money to build it up and I was the lucky recipient of another 10 cent on the dollar find! I am still sorting out the red one a little but it is fast like the black one but with more power (and it attracts cops like crazy!).
They are undoubtedly the best high performance car out there that I have ever found for the money (you can own one for about 1/3 the cost of a 911 and we could argue over which is the most fun to drive. I think that my Strosek is a little faster in a straight line but not till about 80 MPH and the 944 is an easier car to drive at the limits. The Strosek feels more like a go-cart though.
I can't say that one is my favorite except maybe for the RX-7, my first love and one hell of a car in it's own rite. One year when I was autocrossing a lot, I never took less than 2nd place with it (a lot of that was the car ha ha). That got me an invitation to Brainerd for the PCA late season event so that they could whup on me on the big track, because no one could even come close to keeping up on an autocross course. The RX-7 has the full RACING BEAT treatment.
I also have a 1995 Miata that has the full Racing Beat treatment and that car currently holds the world record for fastest slalom time (not my car, theirs, but mine has all the same mods). It is even more nimble than the RX-7 but not quite as fast.
At any rate the Porshes are incomparible in their combination of POWER, handling and road manners (not to mention sex appeal). I literally get stopped quite frequently in both the Red one and the Strosek (the black one is more understated). The red one is just drop dead beautiful in real life. The wheels really make it stand out.
I can send you more pic's if you want.
Take care!
Tom
#43
930 S Slant Nose. Hot start problem. Vapour lock?
Hi 911 Rennlist fellow members,
I am an old bones automotive project engineer, live in Europe, I joined this community some weeks ago, to ask for opinions and advice as I was contemplating the idea of buying my first ever Porsche, a fancy lady that an observer called humorously a little black-****, ***-engine slot car
a 1985 PORSCHE 911 Turbo WPO ZZZ 93 ZFS 00 35X which you may see in detail by clicking this link taking you to a pictures gallery.
As the bug bit me, she is now in the stable and, after a thorough inspection, I am convinced by many small signs that the low tachometer mileage is genuine.
Just to say, she still carries the original brake disc rotors with wear commensurate with her 54,000 Km.... she still wears tires dating from 1991 and 1993, with flats typical of a car which has been waiting long periods.
When it comes to my opinion of the 930S, I have very mixed feelings.
I speak as someone with the experience of having owned many period cars, Ferrari, Maserati, Lamborghini, Lancia, Alfa Romeo... and also raced for many years modern Formula 3 single seaters and also HRC, Lotus 22, Lotus 23...
Well, if I ever in my life met Dr Jekyll, there she is, the 930 S Slant Nose.
She is very sexually attractive to start with, sweet looks... but after she hooked you she no longer hides her true temper, that of a brute. Those of you who slept with her sisters know what I mean.
Coming to the subject of this topic, I need some expert advice
Car is 930S m/y1985 # WPO ZZZ 93 ZFS 00 035X
Engine is stamped 930/66 S
Cold engine starts at touch
PJ functions correctly throughout the rpm range,
Restarting the hot engine, two cases:
a) Anything up to say standing 15 mins, it starts with difficulty, kind of chocked
b) After standing 1/2 hour or more, no start at all although the battery makes it turn like a fan.
Returned to cold, which takes hours, after about 5 seconds of starter motor turning, wroumm, she fires!
Problem seems typical of a vapour lock.
Some non-return valve perhaps?
I ordered the Bosch Workshop manual but won’t get it for a month.
Should any of you understand the cause/s and be able to suggest the cure, thanks in advance for the help!
*****
I am an old bones automotive project engineer, live in Europe, I joined this community some weeks ago, to ask for opinions and advice as I was contemplating the idea of buying my first ever Porsche, a fancy lady that an observer called humorously a little black-****, ***-engine slot car
a 1985 PORSCHE 911 Turbo WPO ZZZ 93 ZFS 00 35X which you may see in detail by clicking this link taking you to a pictures gallery.
As the bug bit me, she is now in the stable and, after a thorough inspection, I am convinced by many small signs that the low tachometer mileage is genuine.
Just to say, she still carries the original brake disc rotors with wear commensurate with her 54,000 Km.... she still wears tires dating from 1991 and 1993, with flats typical of a car which has been waiting long periods.
When it comes to my opinion of the 930S, I have very mixed feelings.
I speak as someone with the experience of having owned many period cars, Ferrari, Maserati, Lamborghini, Lancia, Alfa Romeo... and also raced for many years modern Formula 3 single seaters and also HRC, Lotus 22, Lotus 23...
Well, if I ever in my life met Dr Jekyll, there she is, the 930 S Slant Nose.
She is very sexually attractive to start with, sweet looks... but after she hooked you she no longer hides her true temper, that of a brute. Those of you who slept with her sisters know what I mean.
Coming to the subject of this topic, I need some expert advice
Car is 930S m/y1985 # WPO ZZZ 93 ZFS 00 035X
Engine is stamped 930/66 S
Cold engine starts at touch
PJ functions correctly throughout the rpm range,
Restarting the hot engine, two cases:
a) Anything up to say standing 15 mins, it starts with difficulty, kind of chocked
b) After standing 1/2 hour or more, no start at all although the battery makes it turn like a fan.
Returned to cold, which takes hours, after about 5 seconds of starter motor turning, wroumm, she fires!
Problem seems typical of a vapour lock.
Some non-return valve perhaps?
I ordered the Bosch Workshop manual but won’t get it for a month.
Should any of you understand the cause/s and be able to suggest the cure, thanks in advance for the help!
*****
#44
*****,
My guess, two possible areas. One the fuel accumulator valve, or two, the auxilary air regulator(AAR).
The fuel accumulator prevents the system from losing fuel line pressure when the engine is shutdown. If pressure is lost, it takes time for the electric fuel pumps to pressurize the system. It will start eventually, but with long cranking periods. The more likely candidate is the wonderful AAR. This is an elctro-mechanical device that determines the volume of air required to start a cold to hot engine. It uses a thermo sensor that is located on the left side of the engine on the chain cover. Generally, when the engine has been off longer than 15 minutes, the thermo sensor changes states and basically resets to a cold state. The AAR is nothing more than a variable orifice that controls the amount of air to the engine at low engine speeds. When they go, you never know at what state the valve was in.....sometimes they all the way open.....sometimes all the way closed...sometimes something in between.
If you do a search on this site, you'll find many posts on the subject. You may even try "hard starting" for a search string. It invariably returns to the AAR or the Warm Up Regulator(WUR). The WUR regulator doesn't sound like your symptoms, since you only mention starting difficulties.
My guess, two possible areas. One the fuel accumulator valve, or two, the auxilary air regulator(AAR).
The fuel accumulator prevents the system from losing fuel line pressure when the engine is shutdown. If pressure is lost, it takes time for the electric fuel pumps to pressurize the system. It will start eventually, but with long cranking periods. The more likely candidate is the wonderful AAR. This is an elctro-mechanical device that determines the volume of air required to start a cold to hot engine. It uses a thermo sensor that is located on the left side of the engine on the chain cover. Generally, when the engine has been off longer than 15 minutes, the thermo sensor changes states and basically resets to a cold state. The AAR is nothing more than a variable orifice that controls the amount of air to the engine at low engine speeds. When they go, you never know at what state the valve was in.....sometimes they all the way open.....sometimes all the way closed...sometimes something in between.
If you do a search on this site, you'll find many posts on the subject. You may even try "hard starting" for a search string. It invariably returns to the AAR or the Warm Up Regulator(WUR). The WUR regulator doesn't sound like your symptoms, since you only mention starting difficulties.
#45
Originally Posted by WERK-I
*****,
My guess, two possible areas. One the fuel accumulator valve, or two, the auxilary air regulator(AAR).
The fuel accumulator prevents the system from losing fuel line pressure when the engine is shutdown. If pressure is lost, it takes time for the electric fuel pumps to pressurize the system. It will start eventually, but with long cranking periods. The more likely candidate is the wonderful AAR. This is an elctro-mechanical device that determines the volume of air required to start a cold to hot engine. It uses a thermo sensor that is located on the left side of the engine on the chain cover. Generally, when the engine has been off longer than 15 minutes, the thermo sensor changes states and basically resets to a cold state. The AAR is nothing more than a variable orifice that controls the amount of air to the engine at low engine speeds. When they go, you never know at what state the valve was in.....sometimes they all the way open.....sometimes all the way closed...sometimes something in between.
If you do a search on this site, you'll find many posts on the subject. You may even try "hard starting" for a search string. It invariably returns to the AAR or the Warm Up Regulator(WUR). The WUR regulator doesn't sound like your symptoms, since you only mention starting difficulties.
My guess, two possible areas. One the fuel accumulator valve, or two, the auxilary air regulator(AAR).
The fuel accumulator prevents the system from losing fuel line pressure when the engine is shutdown. If pressure is lost, it takes time for the electric fuel pumps to pressurize the system. It will start eventually, but with long cranking periods. The more likely candidate is the wonderful AAR. This is an elctro-mechanical device that determines the volume of air required to start a cold to hot engine. It uses a thermo sensor that is located on the left side of the engine on the chain cover. Generally, when the engine has been off longer than 15 minutes, the thermo sensor changes states and basically resets to a cold state. The AAR is nothing more than a variable orifice that controls the amount of air to the engine at low engine speeds. When they go, you never know at what state the valve was in.....sometimes they all the way open.....sometimes all the way closed...sometimes something in between.
If you do a search on this site, you'll find many posts on the subject. You may even try "hard starting" for a search string. It invariably returns to the AAR or the Warm Up Regulator(WUR). The WUR regulator doesn't sound like your symptoms, since you only mention starting difficulties.
After having posted the message that you answered I presumed that a post buried in page 3 of a different topic might not attract enough attention, so I decided to post it fresh as a new topic, as you may see it here,
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...56#post2245256
including the good advice I received in return from Stephen of Imagine Auto.
As you see from my answer to Stephen the problem target is narrowing down.
The problem is definitely that of fuel vapour lock
And vapour builds because of some pressure drop, as pressure drop lowers the boiling point.
Next, pumping vapours takes more time and effort than pumping up a good, solid liquid, which is why after a sufficiently long-standing period one has the choice to toast the starter motor or to wait some hours for the system to cool and fuel vapours to liquefy.
Pressure drop for fuel going back to the tank through a leaking fuel pump check valve is easy to understand and detect.
Pressure drop for a leak in some other internal directions is something I can not yet visualize because of my lack of information about the system.
But this will change, if in time!
Have a good week end!
*****