mpladson

If you are reluctant to cut the hole in the rear valance I can suggest the single 4" outlet muffler from B&B works and sounds great. OK to cruise around town without drawing attention but will be at 100-102 db at full throttle. The single B&B outlet mufflers also do not have the resonance problem that some of the dual outlet mufflers have. You also will not have the extra hole in the valance to draw attention during inspection or should you choose to sell the car with the stock exhaust and cat in place.

Mark
86 Ruf BTR

SoCal Mike

Hey Gino, is the turbo in? How about an update!

Gino

Mike, and others interested: removal wasn't bad; install was not hard either.

first I lubed the o-ring and shoved the adaptor over the turbo pipe. I positioned the turbo into the mount position and installed the gasket in between, 4 new bolts/ nuts to the exhaust-turbo connection and hand tightened.

next I added oil into the turbo line that comes up next to the adaptor and hand spun the unit until oil went down. I did that until with the entire pipe filled. then I attached the fitting on top because there was still enough room to tighten it while the IC down-pipe was out. also reconnected the oil breather hose and vacuum advance hose which I removed to give me room in these close quarters.

then I hand attached the oil tank line below the turbo, and the large hose to up-pipe. again all hand tightened.

with the turbo mount bracket hand tightened in place so everything was in the positions it was supposed to be in I tried to fit the IC down-pipe. after moving and shoving stuff... all everything fitted and seated.

tightening everything up - all went smoothly - re-installed the IC and cat-muf - ready for testing.

disconnected the fuel pump relays and turn the key... crank for about 20 seconds; did that twice. was told that should get the turbo lubed with the added oil in the tube.

re-installed the relays - started it - no problem. let it come up to temperature; watching it like a hawk. nothing unusual... lots of 'metal tinking', some gasket smoking, but nothing I thought out of the ordinary. shut it down. did that again the next day - no smoking - shut it down.

I'm waiting for my cat by-pass from GHL, so I removed the cat-muf (I'll need that for emissions testing) [not sure that cat does much as the ceramic junk inside it is loose as I noticed upon it's removal the first time] and that's where I'm at as of tonight.

going out-of-town for a few days this week, and when I return, I'll install. next, take it down from the jack stands, 'gently' drive it around (still w/o the bumper) to see if boost/ turbo is functioning. if all goes well, then replace the bumper and such and 'break it in slowly'.

more on that another time

Gino

All who were interested-
Back from Clemson, SC and my pipe was waiting for me.

I took a Brent930 suggestion and used bolts to install the by-pass instead of using the stud/ nuts. This would be quicker/ cleaner as I need to re-install the cat annually for emission testing. Good thing I did because before I fitted, I tested the fit of the GHL pipe over the studs w/ gaskets. The stud in the lower inside position actually touches the SS piping hampering installation. The shorter bolts fit with enough room to clear all, and all it went in perfectly.

On the other end of the by-pass pipe was a surprize. Not the air injection port which did not come with a metal cap, just a plastic hole cover (happen to have a real metal one from the old cat because my pump system had already been junked), but the missing collector gasket was. The stock cat-muf set up comes with a beveled, fat, brass pressure fit type 'gasket'. The 'new' connection doesn't use that but is to be standard gasketed with a 3 bolt triangular collector type. Of course, no advanced warning on that from Pelican, nor instructions from GHL. But, like any would-be mechanic, my box of junk and over-purchased stuff had an unused 'still in the package' gasket from by monster TR6 days.... perfect.

Of course, now the new bolts I bought to make this connection were too long by 1/2", so out for a quickie to the hardware store for the right stuff. No problem with this end now and the stock SS muffler fit inside the space occupied previously between the bumper brackets by 1/4"... whew!

Used the stock SS bands to lock down the muffler to the standard mounts, started it up and voila. sounded a bit throatier (good, it needed that) but not loud like the full GHL and B&BA I've heard. Since boost did not come on revving in the garage, I took it for a stealth run around the block to make sure the new K27/ boost was working... again, all OK, and no exhaust leaks upon inspection after.

This weekend, I'll re-attach the bumper and drive during the day, if weather permits.

SoCal Mike

Thanks for the updates Gino. I'm glad everything worked out. That "over-purchased" inventory has saved my butt a bunch of times. Looking forward to your WOT impressions

Gino

well it's all together and just taken for a spin. I'd say it isn't as much extra raw umph between the stock set-up and the K27 + by-pass as it is tremendous increase in drivability. the turbo comes on much sooner, under 3000rpm (according to the boost gauge), and much smoother. without the cat it also seems to revs quicker. maybe that's extra hp/tq. it seems 'sneaky quick' for the lack of how to describe it.

also, it pins the boost gauge well over the 1.0 mark. can I be getting over-boost? how does one know that? what are the signs besides the gauge (and that could be wrong)? is it correctable?

otherwise, I plan to enjoy as much driving as I can, while I can...

turbocarrera.

It's probably fine but you should check it with a known good gauge.
http://www.nhspeedometer.com/911/custom_design/1.htm

I would also make sure the overboost relay is working and the wastegate is in good shape.