CIS failing emissions
07-14-2018, 06:54 PM
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CIS failing emissions
So to preface this, I do not have a 930 turbo. I have a Turbo Esprit. The 930 turbo is one of, if not the closest KE-Jet cousin to the Turbo Esprit, and far more popular. I do have a 928 that runs on L Jet, so I'm at least also a water cooled front engined brother of yours.
I got my WUR rebuilt by Fuel Injection Corp via SpecialTauto/Delorean Auto Parts, and the pressures all tested within spec according to the factory service manual at idle through warm up into closed loop.
I got my Fuel Distributor rebuilt by Larry if CIS Flow Tech.
I got brand new injectors from IMS Service, I believe they're modified Mercedes injectors because esprit ones are NLA.
I am running brand new fuel pumps, accumulator and filter.
The cold start valve and thermal time switch are seemingly functioning perfectly fine.
The frequency valve hums away and does its thing.
I have an AEM wideband installed to keep an eye on the AFR's and I have the lambda connected to the narrow band out put on it.
I'm in Colorado, so I'm at 'high elevation' of around 6,000ft.
With the lamda hooked up and the frequency valve powered, Idling the car runs between 11 and 12, which is obviously too rich, but it idles smoothly.
Without the lamda hooked up the car idles around 10, and with out the frequency valve powered the car can barely keep itself running it's so rich and off the gauge.
After the car hits around 3000 rpm and starts to build boost it really comes alive, and starts to run between 12 and 14. Under full throttle higher in the rpm range it starts to reach the upper 14's and drifts into the low 15's. And at around 5,500 through to 7,000 rpm it breaks up and misses.
It failed emissions miserably with the following results
HC GPM of 5.1015 with a limit of 2.5000
CO GPM of 102.2891 with a limit of 20.0000.
CO2 GPM of 316.1903 with no limit.
NOx GPM of 0.6567 with a limit of 4.
Based on my understanding, this means that the car is running generally too rich. And with my understanding of the factory service manual's texts, my next step would be to adjust the base mixture screw on the air meter.
But with the leaning out numbers higher up under boost I'm a little fearful of leaning out the low end. And should the lambda input be off while adjusting to keep the frequency valve at a 50% duty cycle until the AFR's are near 14.7?
I'd like to get some more input from people far more experienced in this than me.
I got the car in non-running condition and it has been a 6 month project at this point to where I can now drive it. But it's not running correctly. And if anyone knows any shop good with KE jet in Colorado that would be appreciated too.
Here is a graph report of the emissions for reference.
https://i.imgur.com/56MoPWJ.jpg
Thank you guys.
I got my WUR rebuilt by Fuel Injection Corp via SpecialTauto/Delorean Auto Parts, and the pressures all tested within spec according to the factory service manual at idle through warm up into closed loop.
I got my Fuel Distributor rebuilt by Larry if CIS Flow Tech.
I got brand new injectors from IMS Service, I believe they're modified Mercedes injectors because esprit ones are NLA.
I am running brand new fuel pumps, accumulator and filter.
The cold start valve and thermal time switch are seemingly functioning perfectly fine.
The frequency valve hums away and does its thing.
I have an AEM wideband installed to keep an eye on the AFR's and I have the lambda connected to the narrow band out put on it.
I'm in Colorado, so I'm at 'high elevation' of around 6,000ft.
With the lamda hooked up and the frequency valve powered, Idling the car runs between 11 and 12, which is obviously too rich, but it idles smoothly.
Without the lamda hooked up the car idles around 10, and with out the frequency valve powered the car can barely keep itself running it's so rich and off the gauge.
After the car hits around 3000 rpm and starts to build boost it really comes alive, and starts to run between 12 and 14. Under full throttle higher in the rpm range it starts to reach the upper 14's and drifts into the low 15's. And at around 5,500 through to 7,000 rpm it breaks up and misses.
It failed emissions miserably with the following results
HC GPM of 5.1015 with a limit of 2.5000
CO GPM of 102.2891 with a limit of 20.0000.
CO2 GPM of 316.1903 with no limit.
NOx GPM of 0.6567 with a limit of 4.
Based on my understanding, this means that the car is running generally too rich. And with my understanding of the factory service manual's texts, my next step would be to adjust the base mixture screw on the air meter.
But with the leaning out numbers higher up under boost I'm a little fearful of leaning out the low end. And should the lambda input be off while adjusting to keep the frequency valve at a 50% duty cycle until the AFR's are near 14.7?
I'd like to get some more input from people far more experienced in this than me.
I got the car in non-running condition and it has been a 6 month project at this point to where I can now drive it. But it's not running correctly. And if anyone knows any shop good with KE jet in Colorado that would be appreciated too.
Here is a graph report of the emissions for reference.
https://i.imgur.com/56MoPWJ.jpg
Thank you guys.
07-15-2018, 01:00 AM
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Small update, So I have two air flow meters, so I decided to remove the anti-tamper plug on one that runs the car far richer and looked to have been adjusted in the past, and I started adjusting it leaner, to idle around 14.0, and it kind of was all over the place. Some stops it would come to sit at high 12's, others it would sit at high 13's. But as I thought would happen, under full boost WOT in the high revs it was getting up to 17:1. Which is pretty yikes. I tried adjusting it to work without the frequency valve plugged in and the idle AFR didn't move around as much but it went lean very quickly as it revved even in the driveway. So I abandoned that idea quickly.
I would think it would have to be a vacuum leak but I've gone around spraying everything preturbo and I can't find one. There's not much to spray anyway. I figure if there were a 'vacuum/boost' leak post turbo it would run rich under boost and lean under vacuum. For good measure I took the cold start valve off and blocked the hole and had the cold start valve sit in a bottle to see if it leaked, and not a drop came out. I also took the air admittance valve off to double check that it was still fine, and it seems to be. She closes when it's hot. I blew compressed air at it and it seals in one direction, but not the other which I found strange. The way it seals is when the intake is under a vacuum it won't suck air, but when it's under pressure it would let boost out. Throttle position sensor also appears to work just fine, because the little economy light comes on in the situations the book says it should and I can hear an audible choo noise when the economy lights on. If the AFR was off a constant amount I could adjust it out with the base mixture adjustment. I've doodled up this graph incase I'm not clear enough with in my posts.
This is basically what the AFR's do through the rev range from what I've seen. I haven't had a real log plotted, this is just around the pattern my AFRs seem to go, they don't seem to skyrocket as soon as boost hits or anything.
https://i.imgur.com/nbAxD5P.jpg
I would think it would have to be a vacuum leak but I've gone around spraying everything preturbo and I can't find one. There's not much to spray anyway. I figure if there were a 'vacuum/boost' leak post turbo it would run rich under boost and lean under vacuum. For good measure I took the cold start valve off and blocked the hole and had the cold start valve sit in a bottle to see if it leaked, and not a drop came out. I also took the air admittance valve off to double check that it was still fine, and it seems to be. She closes when it's hot. I blew compressed air at it and it seals in one direction, but not the other which I found strange. The way it seals is when the intake is under a vacuum it won't suck air, but when it's under pressure it would let boost out. Throttle position sensor also appears to work just fine, because the little economy light comes on in the situations the book says it should and I can hear an audible choo noise when the economy lights on. If the AFR was off a constant amount I could adjust it out with the base mixture adjustment. I've doodled up this graph incase I'm not clear enough with in my posts.
This is basically what the AFR's do through the rev range from what I've seen. I haven't had a real log plotted, this is just around the pattern my AFRs seem to go, they don't seem to skyrocket as soon as boost hits or anything.
https://i.imgur.com/nbAxD5P.jpg
Last edited by s54venture; 07-15-2018 at 02:58 PM.
07-16-2018, 01:51 PM
#3
uninformed gas bag
(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
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(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
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This is way more technical than 99% of the regular visitors here. Lots of smart guys over on pelican when it comes to this.
07-17-2018, 12:11 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
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Yeah, we Pelicanites are **** to the max. Love a great challenge, lots and lots of experience over there. Just a larger crowd of knowledgeable DIY enthusiasts than you'll find on Rennlist (some of us lurk on both sites...don't tell anyone).