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weight reduction vs. power mods?

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Old 10-29-2016, 03:38 PM
  #16  
r911
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smaller dia. wheel means more tire

thinner rotors means less heat capacity, tho ducting in air can help

the 917 wheels will help you reduce wt. ;]

otherwise you'd have to see where the CF wheel development level is at now - last i checked there were some for racing motorcycles...
Old 10-29-2016, 04:20 PM
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Amber Gramps
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Originally Posted by Trakrat
Thanks so much for all of your replies!!!

What do you all think of switching out the rotors/brakes and wheels for additional weight savings?
Does anyone make carbon ceramic brakes for these cars?
Anyone researched which wheels would reduce weight as well? I'd like to move to 17" wheels, but basically just need more meat on the car. However, if staying with 16" shows HUGE weight savings, then I would probably stay at 245/205 wheel combo.
What kind of disposable income do you have? If spending $50,000 above and beyond the price of the car is no big deal than the route you are looking at is doable.....if you are the wrench...if not, expect do pay a lot more. If you only have $20,000 to totally burn beyond the price of the car, as in throw away, then you need to dramatically scale back your thinking. Sorry, but there is no point in even going any further until you've made sure you can do this without credit cards and without regret.
Old 10-30-2016, 07:52 PM
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Here in Florida track days are really insane. $50,000 won't even get you a second look. We have tractor trailer rigs with professional crews. For a track day.

Richard
Old 10-30-2016, 08:03 PM
  #19  
Trakrat
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Originally Posted by amber lamps
What kind of disposable income do you have? If spending $50,000 above and beyond the price of the car is no big deal than the route you are looking at is doable.....if you are the wrench...if not, expect do pay a lot more. If you only have $20,000 to totally burn beyond the price of the car, as in throw away, then you need to dramatically scale back your thinking. Sorry, but there is no point in even going any further until you've made sure you can do this without credit cards and without regret.
I plan on spending $1500.
But seriously... $50,000 on upgrades for the lifetime of owning a classic Porsche is really not that unreasonable. Usually, what ends up happening is replacing a part for something more lighter and modern ends up requiring another part to be replaced too, only to find that something else needs repaired first before upgrading the other part. So a $500 part ends up costing $1500 just to install it.
Old 10-30-2016, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Trakrat
I plan on spending $1500.
But seriously... $50,000 on upgrades for the lifetime of owning a classic Porsche is really not that unreasonable. Usually, what ends up happening is replacing a part for something more lighter and modern ends up requiring another part to be replaced too, only to find that something else needs repaired first before upgrading the other part. So a $500 part ends up costing $1500 just to install it.
Ok, as long as you understand.

First things first....go to elephant racing and look at the suspension builder and full track build.

http://www.elephantracing.com
Old 10-31-2016, 07:23 PM
  #21  
JackOlsen
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Plenty of good advice here. I'll only say that when it comes to driving on a track, power-to-weight is not a very meaningful metric. It matters a lot in quarter-mile racing -- but in a corner, if you're looking at the factors of power and weight, your maximum velocity is determined by weight alone. Power is not a factor unless your foot is already all the way to the floorboards in that corner, which is not the case for most road course corners.

Suspension is a whole other consideration (and a crucial one). In my opinion, it's where you want to put most of your money.

Adding power helps in straight sections of tracks and corners where you're already at full throttle.

Cutting weight helps on straights and corners and with braking and everywhere.

The ratio between power and weight doesn't really matter. You want as light a car as possible with as good a suspension as possible and as much reliable power as you can afford. But I'm happy to show guys all day long what can be done with Honda Minivan levels of horsepower in a well-set-up 911.
Old 10-31-2016, 07:44 PM
  #22  
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LOLzzz..... Jack, I was about to introduce you:


https://jevidon.exposure.co/jack-olsens-porsche


...and yes, that is Jack sitting in my car.
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Old 10-31-2016, 07:51 PM
  #23  
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Ha! Maybe more to the point, here's a 475-hp 911 with a pro driver and a lot of awesome new technology up against a 270-hp 911 and a regular guy like me.

If he'll give me the weight difference between an old 911 and a new one, I'll give him a full 200 hp on top of mine and all the newfangled stuff the Porsche engineers have come up with in the last 44 years.

Old 11-07-2016, 11:56 PM
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I run stock Carrera rotors on my spec 911. No need to spend money there.

You don't want to run too much tire. Wider is not always faster. The spec911, which weighs 2350 with driver, is limited to 225/245 on 16x7/8. This the right amount of tire for the car's weight and power (about 240 hp).



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