Garm's suspension build
#1
Garm's suspension build
My '77 911 with slant conversion and 3.0L motor. I knew from the way the rest of the car was treated that the suspension would be a bit of a mess. And it is.
Huge thanks to TRE Motorsports for their patience and guidance.
Here is what I have now:
Front Boge struts (blown)
Stock front swaybar
Stock torsions
Stock tie rods
Bad ball joints
Rear KYB shocks (failing)
Bad rear spring plate bushings
Stock torsions
Missing rear swaybar
PLAN A
Front Bilstein HD front strut inserts
21mm front torsion bars with new rubber a-arm bushings
930 Turbo tie rod kit
New ball joints and hardware
Front (through the body) adjustable front swaybar
Rear Bilstein Sport shocks
28mm rear torsions with new rubber spring plate bushings
Adjustable rear swaybar kit
Weld in new heavy duty rear swaybar mounts
4 wheel alignment and corner balance.
Huge thanks to TRE Motorsports for their patience and guidance.
Here is what I have now:
Front Boge struts (blown)
Stock front swaybar
Stock torsions
Stock tie rods
Bad ball joints
Rear KYB shocks (failing)
Bad rear spring plate bushings
Stock torsions
Missing rear swaybar
PLAN A
Front Bilstein HD front strut inserts
21mm front torsion bars with new rubber a-arm bushings
930 Turbo tie rod kit
New ball joints and hardware
Front (through the body) adjustable front swaybar
Rear Bilstein Sport shocks
28mm rear torsions with new rubber spring plate bushings
Adjustable rear swaybar kit
Weld in new heavy duty rear swaybar mounts
4 wheel alignment and corner balance.
#2
A couple of thoughts here.
I'm going to make the assumption that this is a street car. If that's the case then skip the adjustable sway bars and the turbo tie rod ends. You don't need them for the street.
btw - I've done both but I was running Solo 2 at one time. And winning
Really not needed for the street - unless the originals are worn out.
Richard Newton
Turbo Tie Rod Ends
I'm going to make the assumption that this is a street car. If that's the case then skip the adjustable sway bars and the turbo tie rod ends. You don't need them for the street.
btw - I've done both but I was running Solo 2 at one time. And winning
Really not needed for the street - unless the originals are worn out.
Richard Newton
Turbo Tie Rod Ends
#3
Thanks for the feedback, that is helpful. A little more info:
Mixed use, street and track days. It's never going to be a race-purposed lightweight 911, but I like my autocross and occasional Willow Springs outings. I do have some racing experience.
With one sway bar completely missing, I think an upgrade is reasonable, and I like to do things once when possible.
The tie rods ARE worn out, along with most of the bushings, ball joints, etc.
You didn't mention torsion bars -- thoughts?
Mixed use, street and track days. It's never going to be a race-purposed lightweight 911, but I like my autocross and occasional Willow Springs outings. I do have some racing experience.
With one sway bar completely missing, I think an upgrade is reasonable, and I like to do things once when possible.
The tie rods ARE worn out, along with most of the bushings, ball joints, etc.
You didn't mention torsion bars -- thoughts?
#4
T-bar choice is good. Do the LEMFÖRDER Turbo Tie Rods. NEVER buy the junk. There is a difference. Why not Sports up front? Seems that if you are going full retard with the sways that you'd want to at least go to Sports. I went clear to revalved Sports and my car is just a lowly street cab. Good call on the reinforced rear sway mounts. Most guys don't realize what a weak link they are.
#6
I think the HD in front will offer a bit of pliability, which will serve well on the street, and might well match my technique at the track. The Sports in front can make the car a little "skippy"; but I don't have the personal experience to verify that -- yet. If the HD's are not sufficient, I'll upgrade.
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#12
...or did you mean adjustable spring plates? That would be an awesome upgrade.
#14
I'm not a fan of SS braid covered hoses. Bruce Anderson had some good comments on these back in the day...
I'd get rubber hoses from the dealer and they are likely to be TUV approved (which means something, while DOT approval means rel. little).
I'd get rubber hoses from the dealer and they are likely to be TUV approved (which means something, while DOT approval means rel. little).