Porsche 3.2
#16
This could have been me yesterday... but the seller called 45 minutes in my drive down to say he didn't want to sell.
#18
Looks great. I echo the advice to get a baseline and then start by addressing all the time-worn items like bushings, tie-rod ends (as needed).
One item I would not wait to look into though would be the fuel lines over the top of the engine. This is an known age item on these cars and too many of them have had serious fires due to leakages. Pretty much everything else can be done more slowly.
One item I would not wait to look into though would be the fuel lines over the top of the engine. This is an known age item on these cars and too many of them have had serious fires due to leakages. Pretty much everything else can be done more slowly.
#19
Professor of Pending Projects
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From: Orlando, FL
I would focus first on making sure all maintenance items and normal wear parts are taken care.
- Fuel Lines - if original, replace.
- Check for oil leaks. Many are easy to fix.
- Hood and engine lid struts
- Change transmission oil/lube. Be sure that you can remove the filler plug first!
- I am a sucker for doing this to all the used cars I buy... I do a complete maintenance so that I have peace of mind that everything was done and I have a solid base line to start from... so do belts, plugs, valve adjustment (great time to check for any broken head studs), dist cap, condition of plug wires and replace if necessary, clean all ground contacts (tranny to chassis, engine to chassis, battery (both ends, at battery and chassis for the negative), etc.).
- Brake system. Flush brake fluid with fresh ATE or Motul, check conditions of brake hoses, replace if old, check wear of rotors, replace if more than 2mm of wear, check pads and replace if needed or if replacing rotors. Great time to buy a Motive bleeder if you do not have one.
- Suspension... this is where, if they are in need of replacement, you can look for upgrades based on intended use. Replace rubber bushings on everything... unless those were replaced not long ago...
- Steering - check rod ends for play.
- Align the car after all the suspension and steering parts have been gone over. And yes... get the wheels/tires balanced. Check tire air pressure to make sure it is to spec.
- Wiper work? Blades need replacement? water jet pump works?
- Clutch operation? Smooth? Great time to bleed as well...
- All fuses there? Condition? Relays?
- Condition of rubber seals - window, doors, windshield, hood/trunk, etc.
- Shifter bushings at the shifter (front) end and also at the rear where it meets with the transmission. Easy to replace and makes a world of difference.
- Clean, clean, clean... it will help you pinpoint any future issue if you start with a clean car.
- Engine Mounts. These degrade with time. Make sure they are okay.
- Transmission mounts - inspect.
Again, as others have mentioned, forget about performance upgrades for a few months... focus on making sure the car has all areas up to spec... and enjoy driving it like that for a few months... then decide where you want to take it.
Have fun, enjoy your new car and wish you many miles of happy and trouble free driving!
Last edited by Wachuko; 03-19-2015 at 07:42 AM. Reason: Added a few items to the list
#20
If it hasn't been done, you will want to refresh the shifter bushings. Many take that opportunity to put in a nice aftermarket shifter. I didn't on my '86 because it has the best factory shifter of all the 915 cars. Make sure you read the threads on shifter adjustment.
And don't think changing the oil will magically save you from a rebuild if the box is in fact tired. Gearbox work is a costly essential item many of these cars need.
And rubber. Good tires make a world of difference on these cars.
And don't think changing the oil will magically save you from a rebuild if the box is in fact tired. Gearbox work is a costly essential item many of these cars need.
And rubber. Good tires make a world of difference on these cars.
The bushings are a cheap and effective fix. Tricky part is getting the linkage adjusted afterwards
Also a good time to get the clutch asdjustment.
No sense worrying about any tranny issues until you get these right.
#21
Wow guys, thanks a lot for the list of items! Q
Wachuco, great and complete list of things. They are now my top priority for now, and when I meant upgrades I was talking about things I can improve when I'm working on the items, for example suspension, if I choose to change them, should I upgrade to what kind/ brand? Changing brakes hoses, OEM or with metallic coating..etc.
Thanks a lot guys, I've got something to work from now on...
I'll buy a technical manual, and was thinking between Haynes and Bently , which o e is the best?
Thanks guys
Wachuco, great and complete list of things. They are now my top priority for now, and when I meant upgrades I was talking about things I can improve when I'm working on the items, for example suspension, if I choose to change them, should I upgrade to what kind/ brand? Changing brakes hoses, OEM or with metallic coating..etc.
Thanks a lot guys, I've got something to work from now on...
I'll buy a technical manual, and was thinking between Haynes and Bently , which o e is the best?
Thanks guys
#24
Professor of Pending Projects
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 9,891
Likes: 23
From: Orlando, FL
Wow guys, thanks a lot for the list of items! Q
Wachuco, great and complete list of things. They are now my top priority for now, and when I meant upgrades I was talking about things I can improve when I'm working on the items, for example suspension, if I choose to change them, should I upgrade to what kind/ brand? Changing brakes hoses, OEM or with metallic coating..etc.
Thanks a lot guys, I've got something to work from now on...
I'll buy a technical manual, and was thinking between Haynes and Bently , which o e is the best?
Thanks guys
Wachuco, great and complete list of things. They are now my top priority for now, and when I meant upgrades I was talking about things I can improve when I'm working on the items, for example suspension, if I choose to change them, should I upgrade to what kind/ brand? Changing brakes hoses, OEM or with metallic coating..etc.
Thanks a lot guys, I've got something to work from now on...
I'll buy a technical manual, and was thinking between Haynes and Bently , which o e is the best?
Thanks guys
http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessori...artscatalogue/
http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf...89_KATALOG.pdf
Good books to have:
Haynes Repair Manual, Porsche 911 (1965-1989)
101 Projects for Your Porsche 911, by Wayne R. Dempsey
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...TOLbks_pg1.htm
If you can get your hands on a set of the factory workshop manuals, even better
#26
#29
The things Im going to address first are:
- irregular idle, the car idle is not linear it seems it wants to turn off and theres aceleration to make it continue working, and there's vibration on the cockpit....after we start driving, the motor is very linear...only when stoping again at idle it starts doing it again...
- oil leaking, having a non leaking 997 and a 964, (yes my 964 doesnt leak!! Im worried!! Hehe), last Níght Ive seen a puddle of oil in the garage...not so small...I'll try to see it today where it comes from...
Any tips on how to address these 2 items will be much appreciated.
Thanks
- irregular idle, the car idle is not linear it seems it wants to turn off and theres aceleration to make it continue working, and there's vibration on the cockpit....after we start driving, the motor is very linear...only when stoping again at idle it starts doing it again...
- oil leaking, having a non leaking 997 and a 964, (yes my 964 doesnt leak!! Im worried!! Hehe), last Níght Ive seen a puddle of oil in the garage...not so small...I'll try to see it today where it comes from...
Any tips on how to address these 2 items will be much appreciated.
Thanks
#30
Great looking car! Has the car been sitting up? If so modern gasoline is crap after two months unless treated and then I am not sure. I have been running Seafoam thru a 20 yr stored 76 911 for 500 miles and it now behaves at idle.
Wade in to tech articles on fuel injection and be patient. You presumably paid for a used car and if lucky you got what you paid for.
I have Porsches and Land Rovers and cardboard to catch leaks. I would concentrate on fuel air system. The oil leak is likely going to be pushrods tubes which you could have done if it bothers you.
Or add it to the list. And there are no high performance options for pushrods tubes, lol! Js
Wade in to tech articles on fuel injection and be patient. You presumably paid for a used car and if lucky you got what you paid for.
I have Porsches and Land Rovers and cardboard to catch leaks. I would concentrate on fuel air system. The oil leak is likely going to be pushrods tubes which you could have done if it bothers you.
Or add it to the list. And there are no high performance options for pushrods tubes, lol! Js