Porsche 3.2
#1
Porsche 3.2
Hi guys,
Next week I'll be a 3.2 owner, if everything goes ok, so was wondering what to do after I wown it.
1- main Problems I should address
2- what are the best mods, upgrades I should consider?
Thanks a lot guys
Next week I'll be a 3.2 owner, if everything goes ok, so was wondering what to do after I wown it.
1- main Problems I should address
2- what are the best mods, upgrades I should consider?
Thanks a lot guys
#2
Good luck with car. Not much detail to judge by but usually it takes time and money to catch up overdue maintenance. Well cared for orig Pcars are always fun regardless of upgrades but to each their own.
I always benchmark all fluids, filters, belts, hoses with new unless prev owner had recent receipts. Not wise to order performance parts until. You know systema weakness. Just my opinion.
Have fun! Js
I always benchmark all fluids, filters, belts, hoses with new unless prev owner had recent receipts. Not wise to order performance parts until. You know systema weakness. Just my opinion.
Have fun! Js
#4
Instructor
As Js said, you better establish your baseline first. What mechanical state is the car in. You will need to drive it first some good time to really know.
Asking for upgrades, you would need to define what your goal is.
Staying stock but get the most out of it? Then probably refreshening all suspension components with stock or slightly improved aftermarket parts. Depending on where the car is now, it probably transforms it significantly if all done correctly.
If you decide to leave the stock route, there is no limit what you can do. But you need to keep in mind that it will remove some of the unique multi-purpose set-up of an original car. It will get stiffer, louder, less comfortable. Could have no longer heat. Can be no longer the car you want to take for a long ride with your wife/girlfriend.
In my case I choose the second route but am well aware of the drawbacks. Significantly lowered, no a single piece of rubber in the suspension, interior stripped, race seats, roll-bar, Momo wheel, 6-point harness, semi-slicks on Maxilites and so on. You can spend 10k and have not even touched the motor.
On the engine typical upgrades are installing a new chip for the DME and replacing the stock ceramic cat with a 100cpi metal catalytic converter. That will give you a slightly better performance but don't expect wonders. And as these a popular upgrades, it probably has been done already. Getting a significant horsepower increase out of a 3.2l engine is getting very expensive very quickly.
Asking for upgrades, you would need to define what your goal is.
Staying stock but get the most out of it? Then probably refreshening all suspension components with stock or slightly improved aftermarket parts. Depending on where the car is now, it probably transforms it significantly if all done correctly.
If you decide to leave the stock route, there is no limit what you can do. But you need to keep in mind that it will remove some of the unique multi-purpose set-up of an original car. It will get stiffer, louder, less comfortable. Could have no longer heat. Can be no longer the car you want to take for a long ride with your wife/girlfriend.
In my case I choose the second route but am well aware of the drawbacks. Significantly lowered, no a single piece of rubber in the suspension, interior stripped, race seats, roll-bar, Momo wheel, 6-point harness, semi-slicks on Maxilites and so on. You can spend 10k and have not even touched the motor.
On the engine typical upgrades are installing a new chip for the DME and replacing the stock ceramic cat with a 100cpi metal catalytic converter. That will give you a slightly better performance but don't expect wonders. And as these a popular upgrades, it probably has been done already. Getting a significant horsepower increase out of a 3.2l engine is getting very expensive very quickly.
#5
[QUOTE=HorstP;12120428]As Js said, you better establish your baseline first. What mechanical state is the car in. You will need to drive it first some good time to really know.
Asking for upgrades, you would need to define what your goal is.
Staying stock but get the most out of it? Then probably refreshening all suspension components with stock or slightly improved aftermarket parts. Depending on where the car is now, it probably transforms it significantly if all done correctly.
If you decide to leave the stock route, there is no limit what you can do. But you need to keep in mind that it will remove some of the unique multi-purpose set-up of an original car. It will get stiffer, louder, less comfortable. Could have no longer heat. Can be no longer the car you want to take for a long ride with your wife/girlfriend.
In my case I choose the second route but am well aware of the drawbacks. Significantly lowered, no a single piece of rubber in the suspension, interior stripped, race seats, roll-bar, Momo wheel, 6-point harness, semi-slicks on Maxilites and so on. You can spend 10k and have not even touched the motor.
On the engine typical upgrades are installing a new chip for the DME and replacing the stock ceramic cat with a 100cpi metal catalytic converter. That will give you a slightly better performance but don't expect wonders. And as these a popular upgrades, it probably has been done already. Getting a significant horsepower increase out of a 3.2l engine is getting very expensive very quickly.
Yep.... I went the first route since the bulk of my use is spirited touring, and mostly with company. The Porsche factory did build a very nice road car. My car is a Euro version that came with 231hp and Bilsteins from the factory. The cheapest performance upgrade seems to be "adding lightness". Getting rid of all non essential bits and pieces 10lbs here, 10 oz there.... There are guys that claimed to have pared over 500lbs off the stock car, and THAT would make a big difference! Unfortunately those "non essential" bits and pieces are mostly comfort related. A/C, heating system, sound insulation, plush electric seats, back jump seats, sunroof, electric windows, and bumpers are all on the chopping block. Ear plugs don't weigh much...LOL. Cheers and welcome to the community.
Asking for upgrades, you would need to define what your goal is.
Staying stock but get the most out of it? Then probably refreshening all suspension components with stock or slightly improved aftermarket parts. Depending on where the car is now, it probably transforms it significantly if all done correctly.
If you decide to leave the stock route, there is no limit what you can do. But you need to keep in mind that it will remove some of the unique multi-purpose set-up of an original car. It will get stiffer, louder, less comfortable. Could have no longer heat. Can be no longer the car you want to take for a long ride with your wife/girlfriend.
In my case I choose the second route but am well aware of the drawbacks. Significantly lowered, no a single piece of rubber in the suspension, interior stripped, race seats, roll-bar, Momo wheel, 6-point harness, semi-slicks on Maxilites and so on. You can spend 10k and have not even touched the motor.
On the engine typical upgrades are installing a new chip for the DME and replacing the stock ceramic cat with a 100cpi metal catalytic converter. That will give you a slightly better performance but don't expect wonders. And as these a popular upgrades, it probably has been done already. Getting a significant horsepower increase out of a 3.2l engine is getting very expensive very quickly.
Yep.... I went the first route since the bulk of my use is spirited touring, and mostly with company. The Porsche factory did build a very nice road car. My car is a Euro version that came with 231hp and Bilsteins from the factory. The cheapest performance upgrade seems to be "adding lightness". Getting rid of all non essential bits and pieces 10lbs here, 10 oz there.... There are guys that claimed to have pared over 500lbs off the stock car, and THAT would make a big difference! Unfortunately those "non essential" bits and pieces are mostly comfort related. A/C, heating system, sound insulation, plush electric seats, back jump seats, sunroof, electric windows, and bumpers are all on the chopping block. Ear plugs don't weigh much...LOL. Cheers and welcome to the community.
Last edited by Drisump; 03-15-2015 at 12:42 PM. Reason: clarity
#6
Drifting
Best thing is to take a few Tylenols and spend an evening searching here and on Pelican through all the posts regarding upgrades for your car ... lol ... you will get dizzy in no time !
One suggestion though,is to address the suspension first as many cars will need new bushings all around,perhaps shocks and other suspension bits !
Upgrading to Elephant Racing parts is a good move,then the following year you can do a complete brake refresh,the list is never ending considering they are 30 year old cars.
You'll probably have some cosmetic bits to change like sunroof seals,interior bits ... it's all part of the fun of owning a 911 !
After a few years,like most owners you will likely want some performance upgrades ... but that's another two Tylenols and an evening of searching
Cheers
Phil
One suggestion though,is to address the suspension first as many cars will need new bushings all around,perhaps shocks and other suspension bits !
Upgrading to Elephant Racing parts is a good move,then the following year you can do a complete brake refresh,the list is never ending considering they are 30 year old cars.
You'll probably have some cosmetic bits to change like sunroof seals,interior bits ... it's all part of the fun of owning a 911 !
After a few years,like most owners you will likely want some performance upgrades ... but that's another two Tylenols and an evening of searching
Cheers
Phil
#7
3.2
Drive first, mod later.
You need to hobnob with other Porsche enthusiasts for a while, and you need to get your car up to snuff before you do anything.
Slow your roll, my friend. Your car will need plenty of stuff just to get up to speed.
Welcome.
Nick
You need to hobnob with other Porsche enthusiasts for a while, and you need to get your car up to snuff before you do anything.
Slow your roll, my friend. Your car will need plenty of stuff just to get up to speed.
Welcome.
Nick
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#8
I have a dead stock 3.2 that I used as a DD for 15 years, and a full PCA race SC, so these are the opposite ends of the spectrum.
Honestly, for street only use, the 3.2 in pure stock form is a very nice and very quick car. But on even a well maintained car, age will deteriorate bushings, shocks tie-rod ends, etc. This occurs so gradually, the owners often don't realize it.
Suspensions requires a lot of planning and knowledge to set up properly... I'd recommend sticking close to the factory settings, but do your research, put specific goals together, work with a really experienced Porsche Specialist, and and do all the work at the same time. A piecemeal approach will cost more and probably deliver less.
While you're in there, lowering the car to Euro ride height will help handling and looks of the car, get a really good alignment, and buy top quality tires. I would not necessarily go with wider wheels, unless you like them for cosmetic reasons.
Also, pay attention to the shift linkage. The stock 915 gets a bad rap, but its mostly because the linkage is shot... a WEVO coupler is a good upgrade, but I'd avoid aftermarket "upgrades" as IMHO, they are expensive, and really don't work any better than the factory setup.
Also, (and this sounds funny) going to a smaller diameter steering wheel really changes the handling feel of the car. MOMO has a wide variety of nice wheels and this is a quick bolt-on.
Get a throttle pedal extension... it is virtually impossible to "heel and toe" on the stock setup.
If you have a big budget, and want some more oomph, replacing the stock heat exchangers with tuned headers and a free-flow muffler does add about 15HP... and a DME chip also works. Options depend on whether you need heat or not.
Finally, weight reductions also help. Removing the A/C is a common one, and if you can drop $1,500, replacing the crash bumpers with Fiberglass or CF can save 60 lbs, and IMHO, looks very good on the car.
All of this is "Bolt-on" stuff that can easily be reversed. These cars are becoming collectable, and the closer to stock they are, generally the more valuable they will be... so save all the original parts.
Finally, get a spare DME relay, and keep it in the car... this is really the only "failure" part on these cars... lots of info on that.
Honestly, for street only use, the 3.2 in pure stock form is a very nice and very quick car. But on even a well maintained car, age will deteriorate bushings, shocks tie-rod ends, etc. This occurs so gradually, the owners often don't realize it.
Suspensions requires a lot of planning and knowledge to set up properly... I'd recommend sticking close to the factory settings, but do your research, put specific goals together, work with a really experienced Porsche Specialist, and and do all the work at the same time. A piecemeal approach will cost more and probably deliver less.
While you're in there, lowering the car to Euro ride height will help handling and looks of the car, get a really good alignment, and buy top quality tires. I would not necessarily go with wider wheels, unless you like them for cosmetic reasons.
Also, pay attention to the shift linkage. The stock 915 gets a bad rap, but its mostly because the linkage is shot... a WEVO coupler is a good upgrade, but I'd avoid aftermarket "upgrades" as IMHO, they are expensive, and really don't work any better than the factory setup.
Also, (and this sounds funny) going to a smaller diameter steering wheel really changes the handling feel of the car. MOMO has a wide variety of nice wheels and this is a quick bolt-on.
Get a throttle pedal extension... it is virtually impossible to "heel and toe" on the stock setup.
If you have a big budget, and want some more oomph, replacing the stock heat exchangers with tuned headers and a free-flow muffler does add about 15HP... and a DME chip also works. Options depend on whether you need heat or not.
Finally, weight reductions also help. Removing the A/C is a common one, and if you can drop $1,500, replacing the crash bumpers with Fiberglass or CF can save 60 lbs, and IMHO, looks very good on the car.
All of this is "Bolt-on" stuff that can easily be reversed. These cars are becoming collectable, and the closer to stock they are, generally the more valuable they will be... so save all the original parts.
Finally, get a spare DME relay, and keep it in the car... this is really the only "failure" part on these cars... lots of info on that.
#9
Nordschleife Master
If it hasn't been done, you will want to refresh the shifter bushings. Many take that opportunity to put in a nice aftermarket shifter. I didn't on my '86 because it has the best factory shifter of all the 915 cars. Make sure you read the threads on shifter adjustment.
And don't think changing the oil will magically save you from a rebuild if the box is in fact tired. Gearbox work is a costly essential item many of these cars need.
And rubber. Good tires make a world of difference on these cars.
And don't think changing the oil will magically save you from a rebuild if the box is in fact tired. Gearbox work is a costly essential item many of these cars need.
And rubber. Good tires make a world of difference on these cars.
#10
If it hasn't been done, you will want to refresh the shifter bushings. Many take that opportunity to put in a nice aftermarket shifter. I didn't on my '86 because it has the best factory shifter of all the 915 cars. Make sure you read the threads on shifter adjustment.
And don't think changing the oil will magically save you from a rebuild if the box is in fact tired. Gearbox work is a costly essential item many of these cars need.
And rubber. Good tires make a world of difference on these cars.
And don't think changing the oil will magically save you from a rebuild if the box is in fact tired. Gearbox work is a costly essential item many of these cars need.
And rubber. Good tires make a world of difference on these cars.
(Boring alert!!!). The factory 915 shifter has long throws. This is not because Porsche engineers are incompetent idiots who do not understand Simple Machines.
It is because they understood that the synchs needed a very small time to engage, and for 95% of customers, a longer-throw shifter would create that window...
This is why "short-shift" kits of all descriptions do not IMHO work. They do not make shifts "faster", they simply make it easier to destroy your synchs or miss the gate, and make a "money shift".
A slight grind on upshifts does not mean a total rebuild... you can nurse a worn 915 syncho for a while with careful shifting, and learning to rev-match, (or even double-clutch) on downshifts will save wear and tear.
Part of the fun of learning to drive these cars.
#11
Thanks a lot guys, your coments really help me understand the best way to adress the ownership of these cars. I'll be getting the car by Monday, Tuesday, so I'll get back to you on how it's going!
Thanks
Thanks
#13
Hehehehe Now Im 100% sure!!! Hehehe
Just got back from picking up the car...400km. I'm in love!!! Never thought I would love a Red 911!!
I'll post some picks as soon as I get them from my phone...
Thank you again guys for the help!!
Just got back from picking up the car...400km. I'm in love!!! Never thought I would love a Red 911!!
I'll post some picks as soon as I get them from my phone...
Thank you again guys for the help!!
#15