PierreL

I have dreamed of a Porsche for a long time and have located a very nice 79 SC with only 21,000 miles on it. The car is very clean, does not leak oil and drives and feels like a brand new car.

The car has seen very little usage for the last 10 years or so. My main concern is that oil has not been changed for all those years. I have been told that this is potentially a big problem. I am told that oil should be changed every year otherwise some rust might form in the engine. The car has been garaged in a low humidity and well ventillated area. It has been driven every 2-3 months for 30-60 minutes.

Before I go for a PPI, I would like to know if you feel that rust can be a problem. Would such a problem be normally discovered by a PPI. Is there any easy way to find out by myself if there is a problem before I go for the PPI.

Essentially I want to educate myself a bit before I ask for one and probably two PPI.

MAS

All 911's were galvanized from 1976 on. So the year you are looking at does not tend to have major rust problems... unless the car has had some serious damage repair in the past, or was driven every winter on heavily salted roads. A good PPI should be able to tell you the general condition of the body.

-MAS

sschmerg

I think he was talking about the condition of the engine, not the body. As far as that goes...are you sure the guy went through the ritual of running it every few months, but then didn't bother to change the oil in 10 years? Doesn't seem to make much sense.

I've never heard of rust forming in the engine. The concern is really the seals deteriorating, not rust. Even if the oil was not changed very often, if he was using synthetic oil it might still be OK. I would first check the dip stick to see the condition of the oil. As long as you know what motor oil is supposed to look like, you should be able to tell if it's 10 years old. If that checks out, as long as the car is running OK, I'd just take it in for the PPI.

From your description, it sounds like the owner was pretty meticulous. You may have found yourself a really nice car (as long as the price is right)!

geo.aigel

As SSchmerg says, the seals are the main problem and may start leaking on you once you get the car to serious operating temperatures.

Other than that, the engine and bearings should not have suffered significantly on the old oil unless they ran the snot out of the car when doing those warmup runs every few months. I still think the story doesn't go together well, I'd assume the car just sat for 10 years, period. The owner probably knows that that isn't good and made a few details up.

I have experienced bad rings on low mileage cars that sat for a decade. That will be picked up by the PPI. Make sure you have the mechanic check compression not only by cranking over the engine but by leakdown testing which will catch any problems with rings. Then there is oil pressure readings and the sounds of the engine. If all that checks out okay, go buy the car.

What I would avoid is paying a premium for the low mileage. A well sorted 100k miles car may be less hassle because the seals are well lubricated, the injectors are clean, the fuel system is clean, the brake system is intact etc. So, if you can get the car for the price of a 100-150k mile car, go ahead, otherwise RUN and get a nice example that's actually been driven. I'd get ready for some maintenance on a low mileage garage queen, so it is up to you to decide if it is worth it.

Good Luck. George

Trak Ratt

Some internal parts can rust. Such as iron barrels, rings etc. But it really isn’t usually a problem. I recently bought a ’70 T that had been parked since ’93. I did empty the gas Tank & carbs, cleaned the tank & changed the oil (Mobil 1 oil looked perfect). The engine turned over slowly at first but soon loosened up. I turned it over plenty to ensure plenty of oil pressure before reconnecting the coil. It smoked a lot when first fired but soon cleared out. Several hours of running at different RPMs seems to have resealed the rings just fine.

MAS

Yes, I was wondering if he was talking about the engine too. But I guessed (perhaps wrongly) that he must have meant the body... since I've rarely heard about any rust issues with engines.

-MAS

sschmerg

I agree with George as far as the story being a bit spotty. However, if the car is as advertised, I would expect to pay a premium if it's truly in show car-like condition. An exceptionally clean and mechanically well sorted-out '79 with only 21k miles would obviously command more than a 100k mi car. It's hard to place a value on such a car, if that is in fact what this is. Basically it is worth what somebody is willing to pay for it. Of course, if you start racking up the miles on it, it defeats the purpose of buying a low mileage car. I, for one, would think a '79 with miles that low and in like-new condition would be pretty sweet.

With that said, keep in mind that it is a buyer's market, and you should be able to get a used 911 for a (relatively) decent price right now.

-Sean

PierreL

I know the story is true. I have known about this car for the last 10 - 15 years.The car belongs to the father of the friend of one of my friends. Over the years, I have heard several times about the car and met the owner a couple of times. He is a serious man that I am sure has not abused the car. I have no concern here. I am sure also that the car has been driven every 2 - 3 months. I know the owner made sure he would drive the car regularly so that the car would remain in good operating condition. The car has been garaged in the same spot for all those years and there is no oil spot on the floor under the car.

I had told him a few times that when he would want to sell I would be interested. Timing seems to be good as the guy is now willing to sell and I am ready to buy.

My only concern was when I heard from a "Joe knows all" that old oil could cause some engines parts like crank and camshaft to rust.

I do not care if I have to spend a few bucks on seals and other stuff as the car is in like new condition. I might sound too enthusiastic, but I will be very carefull before I make a final decision and will definitely have a PPI done. The owner has readily voluntered for the PPI and has already told me he has no problem if I want more that one.

Believe it or not, but the car still has the new car smell when you sit in it. One of the front tires is the original P7 that came with the car. Final price is not finalised but will not be much above 10K.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Pierre:

Some ferrous parts do rust; specifically cranks, cams, rocker arms, and some other assorted items. Further bearings do show the results of such corrosion IF that is present.

I'd be concerned about corrosion in the fuel injection system and the fuel tank, both can be serious & expensive.

Most SC's had good seals and if the engine was started every 2-3 months, you will be fine. I'd also be aware of the Dilivar stud issue and in the case of stored car, stud corrosion and breakage is very common.

Here are some things I would do immediately:

1) Install the Carrera pressurized chain tensioners and the wide idlers to prevent any future problems.

2) Install a pop-off valve in the airbox to prevent being stranded when it backfires.

3) Install the later, spring-centered clutch, instead of the troublesome rubber-centered one. This is a problem, waiting to happen.

4) A few oil changes,........

Sounds like a neat car.

sschmerg

$10k sounds like a steal! If what you write is true, that's a no-brainer. Hope it works out for you, because it sounds like a great car.

-Sean

geo.aigel

Glad you clarified the description and situation. For that price it is a no brainer. While the lubrication characteristics of old oil might not be perfect when actually running the engine, it sure kept things from rusting if it got run every 3 months.

George

ZCAT3

One more thing if you do buy it - replace the front tires with a new matching set. The current situation sounds dangerous - unmatched front tires with one of them being 24 years old.

Speedraser

Anywhere near $10K is almost theft! If it's as good as you say, grab it!

timlooney

Wow, What a find

From what you have said it sounds like the car will be fine. Just remember that "spending a few bucks" on seals and stuff can add up very quickly. There is nothing inexpensive about these cars. The "seals and stuff" (upgrades) could easily run you $1000 to $2000. I think that the cost of parts and labor are easily made up with a known history and good price. I would go for it.

Good Luck

PierreL

I spent quite a bit of time going through lots of old messages and already know that repairs can add up to large amounts very quickly. I guess I did not chose my words properly when I mentioned spending a few dollars. I guess I should have said a few thousands. Nevertheless, I think this is an excellent car. It will be a weekend car that I will likely not drive for more than 5000 miles per year. Like the present owner, I plan on keeping it for a very long time.

Steve the tensioners and clutch upgrade have not been done. A pop-off valve is already installed. Yours comments confirm what I had already concluded from reading all those old posts. I do not quite understand what the clutch problem is but will ask in a separate post.

ZCAT3 I agree with your tire replacement recommendation. The owner is telling me that the rear tires are approximately 15 years old. All tires look fine but I will replace all 4.