Failed Brakelights
08-24-2003, 09:52 PM
#1
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Failed Brakelights
Does anyone know the difference between the #1 and #2 brake light switch on the brake booster located in the luggage compartment?
My brake lights do not work and after having followed the Bently cruise control trouble-shooting guid, I'm pretty sure, I have either one or two failed brake light switches - which is why my cruise control does not work either.
Also, when I remove the switches am I going to have brake fluid everywhere or is it a simple screw in, screw out?
Any suggestions.
Don
My brake lights do not work and after having followed the Bently cruise control trouble-shooting guid, I'm pretty sure, I have either one or two failed brake light switches - which is why my cruise control does not work either.
Also, when I remove the switches am I going to have brake fluid everywhere or is it a simple screw in, screw out?
Any suggestions.
Don
Last edited by donnieknoxville; 08-25-2003 at 09:47 AM.
08-25-2003, 03:40 PM
#2
Don,
Replace both since you're doing the job as they are cheap. You'll need to remove the heating duck work to gain access to the master cylinder. The one closest to the front of the car is easy. The one toward the rear of the car is tricky - as you don't have much room to work. A bit of fluid will drip out but not much. I put a rag under the switches to catch any fluid.
Over all the job is a one based on a one to ten scale.
Good luck!
Replace both since you're doing the job as they are cheap. You'll need to remove the heating duck work to gain access to the master cylinder. The one closest to the front of the car is easy. The one toward the rear of the car is tricky - as you don't have much room to work. A bit of fluid will drip out but not much. I put a rag under the switches to catch any fluid.
Over all the job is a one based on a one to ten scale.
Good luck!
08-25-2003, 10:40 PM
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Jim,
Thanks for the advise. Mainly concerned about the fluid and need to bleed. Already been back there to locate the parts. Also replaced the steering column bushing THE RIGHT WAY... before I learned of the metal insert ring you can just slide down the shaft. -- So I know that luggage compartment a little too well.
Don
Thanks for the advise. Mainly concerned about the fluid and need to bleed. Already been back there to locate the parts. Also replaced the steering column bushing THE RIGHT WAY... before I learned of the metal insert ring you can just slide down the shaft. -- So I know that luggage compartment a little too well.
Don
08-25-2003, 11:30 PM
#4
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I just went through this last month !
My 83SC no brake lights, replaced both switches... Jim said it very well,
it went exactly as he says. I did not have to flush my brakes and now I have brake lights and good brakes !
My 83SC no brake lights, replaced both switches... Jim said it very well,
it went exactly as he says. I did not have to flush my brakes and now I have brake lights and good brakes !
08-26-2003, 12:56 PM
#5
I would be cautious about not bleeding your brakes. Anytime you open the lines to air you are introducing air into the system. Better to be safe than sorry.
Also, you can save some $ by using the VW equivalent part which amounted to around $6 per sensor. I don't have the number right now, but could find it if necessary. You may also want to check the archives.
Also, you can save some $ by using the VW equivalent part which amounted to around $6 per sensor. I don't have the number right now, but could find it if necessary. You may also want to check the archives.
08-27-2003, 09:27 AM
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Regarding the VW part, I got two sensors from my local Porsche dealer last night (who actually had them in stock)!!! Before installing them I did notice a VW logo on the underside of the sensor - unfortunatley they still charged $13 per. Still one of the most inexpensive fixes I've had on my '87 Cab.
Intalled last night and everything works great.
Don
Intalled last night and everything works great.
Don
