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After 10(it's complicated) hours of non-stop work, food, and patience, I replaced the original plugs with some regular NGK copper cores, and SHE'S FIXED!
Yep! She's no longer sputtering out, or dyin; she's running strong and metaphorically purring like a kitten again.
Here are the original plugs, Bosch Super Coppers, and clearly they were long overdue for change. Just take a look at the picture(the plugs are organized by cylinder number located on the left.
To think that this whole time, the car was sick because of fouled-up spark plugs, I learned a very valuable lesson today, thank's so much for the help, everyone!
The problem came back today. I started her up to let her idle and get up to temperature, and after 40 minutes, as I was getting her up the driveway into the garage. She sputtered out and died on me.
She'll crank but not run. I think I need to find the source of the fouled up plugs. What exactly could cause the old plugs to be like that? I'm going to pull a plug later and see how it looks.
Perhaps running rich? The idle stays at around 1050rpm.
The problem came back today. I started her up to let her idle and get up to temperature, and after 40 minutes, as I was getting her up the driveway into the garage. She sputtered out and died on me.
She'll crank but not run. I think I need to find the source of the fouled up plugs. What exactly could cause the old plugs to be like that? I'm going to pull a plug later and see how it looks.
Perhaps running rich? The idle stays at around 1050rpm.
Idle speed should be lower. It seems it may be too rich. I do not recall the spec but there is one. Also... do not run it too lean or bad things happen.
Idle speed should be lower. It could be richer. I do not recall the spec but there is one. Also... do not run it too lean or bad things happen.
I waited a couple of hours, once the car was cold again, I could start it up with no problems and pull her back into the garage. So something is going wrong once temperature goes up. I'll try setting the idle lower and see if anything changes. I think it should be around 900-950rpm.
Could running rich be the cause for the fouled plugs? What happens when it's ran too lean?
Also, on dead cold starts, it idles very poorly, below 1000, even with the throttle lever pulled up. I have to give it a constant bit of gas at around 1500rpm, and even then, it'll idle at about 1100-1200 with the lever up; putting it down doesn't seem to affect it at that point.
You need to have someone knowledgeable on that fuel injection to get the pressures, Co, and idle correct. Until then, you're taking a chance. If you have the gauges, etc., more power to you.
I agree with the above statement . A few pointers and indicators for you . 1. if the engine is "hunting" up and down it is a clear indicator it is running rich . 2. Adjusting base CO levels will have a far greater effect on idle than the idle adjustment screw. 3. verify all fuel pressures and CIS system before playing with Base CO setting. 4. As pointed out Air cooled engines are designed to run a little rich, but not to the point of balck plugs, . as lean engines burn far to hot and burned valves result. Good luck . i highly recommend investing in a set of CIS gauges. Will tell you a lot and they are kind of fun to play with too .
01-05-2015, 12:00 AM
Who would have thought it would be that easy...
