Air Conditioning Hoses - Hoses and Sources
06-21-2014, 05:18 PM
#1
Racer
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Air Conditioning Hoses - Hoses and Sources
I did a "Search" on this but didn't find anything definitive.
What is the current opinion about what back-to-front hoses to use and a good source(s) for them, thinking ahead about rebuilding/upgrading the system. (Having a running car comes first, obviously) The current installation has an upgraded Sanden compressor of some sort, but none of it has worked for around 15 years.
I was just thinking ahead a bit on this as I'm sure retrofitting the hoses will be easier with the engine out of the car than with it installed.
What is the current opinion about what back-to-front hoses to use and a good source(s) for them, thinking ahead about rebuilding/upgrading the system. (Having a running car comes first, obviously) The current installation has an upgraded Sanden compressor of some sort, but none of it has worked for around 15 years.
I was just thinking ahead a bit on this as I'm sure retrofitting the hoses will be easier with the engine out of the car than with it installed.
06-22-2014, 01:51 AM
#3
Drifting
Bares repeating..
My current thinking...
Have a professional A/C technician convert the system to R-134a, including a new drier, ~$200. Converting to R-134a technically REQUIRES the addition of a binary high/low sensing pressure limit switch since the new refrigerant results in higher high side pressures vs R-12.
Instead have a Trinary pressure switch installed. Like the binary pressure switch it will protect the compressor in case of low refrigerant and limit the refrigerant high pressure below leakage rating of the OEM hoses. RED DOT, 325 PSI limit.
Wire the trinary pressure switch's third element, one side to the cabin heat blower fuse and the other side to the positive side of the cabin heater blower motor.
There TWO MAJOR shortcomings with the factory system.
The first of those is lack of sufficient refrigerant condensing capability when the engine is operating at or near idle speed for an extended period, rush hour stop and go traffic, for instance.
The second shortcoming of the factory design is the lack of a method to prevent extreme high side pressures which might well occur in certain situations.
My 1992 Ford Aerostar's A/C system had a HPRV, High Pressure Relief Valve, mounted in the back of the compressor to vent the R-12 refrigerant to atmostphere in case the refrigerant pressure rose so high as to damage A/C components. Yes, R-12 VENTED to ATMOSPHERE.
It is my understanding that some automotive A/C systems used a HPRV to vent high side pressures to the low side in the event.
I am currently of the quite film belief that the leakage our non-barrier factory hoses have become so famous for can be easily prevented by limiting the high side pressure but differently than using an HPRV.
By simply wiring the cabin heater blower to always operate when the high side pressure fan control switch closes, that will dramatically improve your factory A/C operation, almost tripling the level of rear lid condenser cooling airflow with the engine at idle. A simple modification to the cabin heater blower squirrel cage inlet and the airflow level will TRIPLE.
Now the naysayers will pile on, but just keep in mind that NOTHING of the above has even been shown not to work.
My 1988 Carrera is currently outfitted fully, all of the above, to prove my theories.
Soon it's way to Memphis area, Olive Branch. Ms, actually to prove out the system in a HOT and HUMID climate.
My current thinking...
Have a professional A/C technician convert the system to R-134a, including a new drier, ~$200. Converting to R-134a technically REQUIRES the addition of a binary high/low sensing pressure limit switch since the new refrigerant results in higher high side pressures vs R-12.
Instead have a Trinary pressure switch installed. Like the binary pressure switch it will protect the compressor in case of low refrigerant and limit the refrigerant high pressure below leakage rating of the OEM hoses. RED DOT, 325 PSI limit.
Wire the trinary pressure switch's third element, one side to the cabin heat blower fuse and the other side to the positive side of the cabin heater blower motor.
There TWO MAJOR shortcomings with the factory system.
The first of those is lack of sufficient refrigerant condensing capability when the engine is operating at or near idle speed for an extended period, rush hour stop and go traffic, for instance.
The second shortcoming of the factory design is the lack of a method to prevent extreme high side pressures which might well occur in certain situations.
My 1992 Ford Aerostar's A/C system had a HPRV, High Pressure Relief Valve, mounted in the back of the compressor to vent the R-12 refrigerant to atmostphere in case the refrigerant pressure rose so high as to damage A/C components. Yes, R-12 VENTED to ATMOSPHERE.
It is my understanding that some automotive A/C systems used a HPRV to vent high side pressures to the low side in the event.
I am currently of the quite film belief that the leakage our non-barrier factory hoses have become so famous for can be easily prevented by limiting the high side pressure but differently than using an HPRV.
By simply wiring the cabin heater blower to always operate when the high side pressure fan control switch closes, that will dramatically improve your factory A/C operation, almost tripling the level of rear lid condenser cooling airflow with the engine at idle. A simple modification to the cabin heater blower squirrel cage inlet and the airflow level will TRIPLE.
Now the naysayers will pile on, but just keep in mind that NOTHING of the above has even been shown not to work.
My 1988 Carrera is currently outfitted fully, all of the above, to prove my theories.
Soon it's way to Memphis area, Olive Branch. Ms, actually to prove out the system in a HOT and HUMID climate.
06-22-2014, 08:12 PM
#5
Drifting
